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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Pimp up your RED with Uncle Scrooge

It is looking good for the Tokina set-up! now even the renowned nikonian ken rockwell has surrendered to the 116atx pro. check his review here
 
I have tried to contact the tokina customer center some months ago in order to get further specifications on the AF mechanism... number of discrete steps on the different lenses, but they never mailed me back. If anyone has stumbled upon some information on the focus motor of the tokinas, please refer...
A second crucial question is the noise. Some tokinas are said to be a bit more noisy when focussing. But it remains to be seen wether or not this is an issue with the much slower focussing used through the birger mount.

What I like about the tokinas is their contrast, and I find they are almost identical in tone compaired to the new nikons. Also they are based on some angeniuex patents which might give them less breathing problems. who knows?
 
I spent 10000usd on a Ronford fluid head and tripod 12 years ago and since then it has been around the world several times in Jungle, Desert, at sea, you name it. Never skipped a beat once, just beautiful fluid moves always. Last month it was charged by a two ton bull in brazil, flipped 10 ft in the air and still worked perfectly for the rest of the shoot. You may have to sometimes put quite a lot of cash down for a good product, but it will usually look after you and add value to your work in many ways.
Saving money should not always be your first consideration when looking to do the best possible work.
 
When you are on a budget and need a lot of expensive gear, saving money is absolutely neccesary in order to do the best possible work!
For instance your tripod compared to the dynatran, might afford a whole sound recording setup, or a bit of the crucially important HMI (I have heard that the old tungstens cause trouble, when it comes to red)... And not all cameramen gets attacked by bulls or live in the jungles... they just slowly pan and tilt with their tripod.

But if you are not interested in saving a buck here and there, thats all fine a lot of people ain´t... I guess thats the reason there is a gazillion other threads discussing high-quality gear... I can´t afford :-)
 
GvilleTV said:
Scrooge MAC:

Last december I built my very first Hackintosh, which is basically a way to install Tiger (or Leopard) on PC hardware.

A quadcore (Intel q6600) 2.6ghz, 2.4ghz, 4gigs of ram, 2 x 500gig HD, GEForce 7800GT.

This cost me a little over $900. FCP works. Logic Audio. All the Adobe stuff. It's nearly perfect. I -just- ran an xBench (with things running). Without doing the disk tests, my machine comes in a 208. The average Mac Pro clocks 156. I'm happy.

The OS install has one minor glitch (it doesn't sleep the way I'd like, and when I reboot, i have to unplug and re-plug the keyboard), but I simply didn't want to spend $3000 at Apple in order to not-re-plug. My laziness has bounds.

Here's a link to my WishList, but it's 4 months old. I'm pretty sure there are people building 8 cores, and running Leopard, so I would check the forums (Link also to follow).



http://secure.newegg.com/NewVersion/wishlist/PublicWishDetail.asp?WishListNumber=6795732
http://forum.insanelymac.com/

p.s. Even though you can download the images from places like pirate bay, I suggest you keep your karma intact and go ahead and buy leopard from Apple. It's a great operating system and totally worth the $130 they're asking for it.
Click to expand...

Hi there,

I have a similar setup, do you have a Kona card in your setup?

Many thanks,
Miro
 
I tried it(Nanoclamp) but it slip around the rod(15mm), even for the LCD with arm it is not safe; it is safe for hanging something(5 Kg) but not for others directions.
 
Jeff Deveraux said:
Looking for a different monitor mounting option? I just got one of these for my hand held config so that I can mount the LCD lower onto the rails. The screw is 1/4-20.

http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(r31wlpqoapi0rxzdy0gi0cur)/ProductDetails.aspx?SKU=998019857
Click to expand...

I have added i to the thread starter!

Thats a great product jeff, I have now contacted the dealer and told him that i´ll be setting up a group purchase here on reduser. He told me we could get a 50 percent discount! :ohmy:
 
Eddie said:
I have added i to the thread starter!

Thats a great product jeff, I have now contacted the dealer and told him that i´ll be setting up a group purchase here on reduser. He told me we could get a 50 percent discount! :ohmy:
Click to expand...

You can get these anywhere they sell electrical supply. I got mine at Home Depot. Unless shipping is free, it's probably cheaper to buy locally.

Also, I use mine with steel rods. They may damage carbon fiber or aluminium rods. I don't know.
 
Does anybody outthere have any eperience with using 5000K "grow lights" or something similar to this one. especially for lifting the shadows in an interview setting . Since build 16 it seems that shooting iso 800 is gonna be more than acceptabel... especially when scaling to SD for finishing.
It would be good to know the cheap workarounds. Especially since redone offers the option of adjusting the white balance afterwords. This means that a certain variance in the colortemperature from one bulb to the other is no longer the end of the world, as long as you got enough of that blue light comming. And since I would rather not cough up 6k for this one, it would be great to grab one of these "dope-growing" garden bulbs instead.
Any advice is much appreciated
 
koffi said:
I tried it(Nanoclamp) but it slip around the rod(15mm), even for the LCD with arm it is not safe; it is safe for hanging something(5 Kg) but not for others directions.
Click to expand...

The item description says it ranges from .51 inches to 1.38 inches. 15mm may be too close to the minimum to get a tight grip. I'll let you know how well it works on 19mm rods.
 
Just an update on the ground clamp (rail clamp) I posted about earlier. The metal it is made of (zinc) is pretty soft. It lasted me the weekend before the threads stripped. There are brass and copper ones out on the market though.
 
Manfrotto Nano Clamp with Long Valley Top Handle

Manfrotto Nano Clamp with Long Valley Top Handle

Someone mentioned a little while ago that the Nano clamp was no good for rods. That is right, but it is perfect for the Long Valley Top Handle. I cut a piece of aluminum to replace the steel backing on the Red Battery mount. I then ran a bolt from it to the Manfrotto Nano Clamp and presto I have a easy on - easy off setup. The whole setup weighs less then the steel plate I took off. The Nano Clamps handle is ratcheting too which is handy.
 
Micro Mounts

Micro Mounts

I also use the Red Rock Micro -- Micro Mounts to mount my Carrion. You get 3 Micro Mounts for $110.

I have one on the bottom rod of the Long Valley Light weight front rod setup, and one attached to the Long Valley Top Handle. So it takes all of 10 sec to move it from a low point to a high point.
 
Eddie said:
I am especially keen on the image stabilisation, because it gives you an improved performance at 1/25 sec shutter and mights save you some $$$$ on lighting.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately unless the Birger does some magic to the stabilisation hardware, it's not really designed for "live" use - it locks the image ASAP rather than doing so smoothly - looks very odd in motion.
 
Eddie said:
Does anybody outthere have any eperience with using 5000K "grow lights" or something similar to this one. especially for lifting the shadows in an interview setting . Since build 16 it seems that shooting iso 800 is gonna be more than acceptabel... especially when scaling to SD for finishing.
It would be good to know the cheap workarounds. Especially since redone offers the option of adjusting the white balance afterwords. This means that a certain variance in the colortemperature from one bulb to the other is no longer the end of the world, as long as you got enough of that blue light comming. And since I would rather not cough up 6k for this one, it would be great to grab one of these "dope-growing" garden bulbs instead.
Any advice is much appreciated
Click to expand...

Just because you can adjust WB in post, does not mean you can be undisciplined about colour temperature on set. If all your lights match, then that's perfect. But if there is a colour temperature shift between different lights, that's baked in and can never be removed.
 
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