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OConnor 1030S Head Missing Parts

Tony Mac

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So I just purchased this used 1030s head on ebay, but it looks like it's missing the lever to secure the dovetail onto the head, or maybe someone who knows more about this head can tell me otherwise. Does anyone know where I could find this part? Should I just contact OConnor directly?

It's also missing the quick release system and a handle, but that I can find easily. I was thinking about using the ET 1030 dovetail: https://elementtechnica.com/product/arri-dovetail-1030-9-2/
 

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For parts I have always contacted O'Connor and they have been very helpful. Once even found an old part in their warehouse to fix a discontinued tripod. First rate in my book.

David
 
Yes, you are missing the mechanism that locks the base plate. The ET dovetail is great.
 

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For parts I have always contacted O'Connor and they have been very helpful. Once even found an old part in their warehouse to fix a discontinued tripod. First rate in my book.

David

Yes, you are missing the mechanism that locks the base plate. The ET dovetail is great.

Thanks guys, I left the repair center a message describing the part the best I could. Hopefully that part hasn't changed between the different 1030 heads. Hopefully this used item isn't more headache than it was worth.
 
Thanks guys, I left the repair center a message describing the part the best I could. Hopefully that part hasn't changed between the different 1030 heads. Hopefully this used item isn't more headache than it was worth.

I have had this experience. If those pieces are missing it's likely because they were cracked off and the head has taken a spill. That assembly can definitely cost some dough by the way. Beyond this however, I would immediately check for fractures on the head and near the rosettes. Personally, if these missing pieces are a surprise, I would send the head back. The S has been declared obsolete, but many of those pieces obviously carry over to later models.
 
I have had this experience. If those pieces are missing it's likely because they were cracked off and the head has taken a spill. That assembly can definitely cost some dough by the way. Beyond this however, I would immediately check for fractures on the head and near the rosettes. Personally, if these missing pieces are a surprise, I would send the head back. The S has been declared obsolete, but many of those pieces obviously carry over to later models.

That's probably a good thing to look out for. From the pictures it doesn't seem like it is cracked, but I'll see when the item arrives. I knew going in that the lock was missing, which is why it was a good price. I figured if I can source that piece I'll have a 1030 head for pretty cheap. I called the seller and he said the head functions fine mechanically aside from the missing lock.
 
For the parts your missing it's a easy replace. The lock is 6 peices which 4 are just bolts, very basic design. My friend has the the 1030 dovetail, and from my experiences. I wouldn't go with the 1030 dovetail, your hate having to loosen the pan handle every time you balance off the dovetail. Another 1/4 taller it would clear the rod support. And the bolts on the 1030 dovetail are recessed which becomes a pain if you don't have extra long 3/8th bolts for them jib, steady moments.
 
For the parts your missing it's a easy replace. The lock is 6 peices which 4 are just bolts, very basic design. My friend has the the 1030 dovetail, and from my experiences. I wouldn't go with the 1030 dovetail, your hate having to loosen the pan handle every time you balance off the dovetail. Another 1/4 taller it would clear the rod support. And the bolts on the 1030 dovetail are recessed which becomes a pain if you don't have extra long 3/8th bolts for them jib, steady moments.

Are you talking about the ET 1030 dovetail that takes the Arri standard on the top? I'm not quite sure which one your describing actually. Although if it hits the pan handle, that does sound frustrating to balance. Not sure what you mean about the recessed bolts either.

In that case should I just go with the standard euro quick release?
 
Are you talking about the ET 1030 dovetail that takes the Arri standard on the top? I'm not quite sure which one your describing actually. Although if it hits the pan handle, that does sound frustrating to balance. Not sure what you mean about the recessed bolts either.

In that case should I just go with the standard euro quick release?

Yes, I'm talking the ET 1030 dovetail, at least the design of the original if they changed it recently. It's not tall enough to let the camera rod support (unless doing 15lws with no 19mm support) clear without having to loosen your pan handle on the head. And by recessed bolt. When you flip over the ET 1030 dovetail to use the bolt pattern on a flat surface, your find the threading is recessed and your need extra long 3/8th bolts if you want to use that dovetail on a jib, steady, etc. Also the locking on the 1030s is the same as the 1030b and 1030hd and even still in the new 1030ds heads, and constant locking and locking will strip the main bolt that holds the damn thing together. I just fixed my friends 1030b for the third time last week and told him to try to balance from the camera bridge plate, and not always from the lock on the head. We both have the 1030b heads, my never has a problem (i'm using the europlate) but his keeps breaking cause he uses the ET 1030 dovetail.

Them parts for the locking aren't that expensive, but the main bolt thread can strip from constant pressure of locking and unlocking, and once it strips there goes tilting the camera without the whole camera sliding down. I was really close to buying the ET 1030 dove tail myself but not after using it on some jobs. Get the large europlate from B&H after you contact Oconnor for the missing parts. Also replace the rosettes for the pan handle before you buy a new one or your strip the teeth of your new panhandle within 3 months. Don't be afraid of using a small hammer to bang out the old rosette from the head, theres a locking pin in there besides the 3 bolts.

what you can get from B&H
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/261478-REG/OConnor_1030_268_1030_268_Large_European_Quick.html
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/234650-REG/OConnor_1030_145_1030_145_14_5_Pan_Handle.html

Oconnor LA contact info
dave.patton@vitecgroup.com
(818) 847-8666
 
I like the ET base plate with the Red quick release plate. I don't crank down the pan arm till after I slide the base plate in. I've never stripped out any of the rosettes or thumb bolts. I also drill and tap out the front of the dovetail to accept a 1/4" 20 bolt that screws down after the plate goes on and prevents the plate from slicing out backwards, it is a safety. I learned this the hard way dropping an epic because it slid out of head when I had it up on my shoulder moving it. The lock mechanism has two little allen screws that you can use to adjust the tension on the plate as they are all of varying thicknesses. I also have an Allstar plate that is about 1.5" thick and can slide off and on despite the pan handle location. The Allstar is OK but I had to have it milled as the top plane of the plate was a little askew.
 

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Yes, I'm talking the ET 1030 dovetail, at least the design of the original if they changed it recently. It's not tall enough to let the camera rod support (unless doing 15lws with no 19mm support) clear without having to loosen your pan handle on the head. And by recessed bolt. When you flip over the ET 1030 dovetail to use the bolt pattern on a flat surface, your find the threading is recessed and your need extra long 3/8th bolts if you want to use that dovetail on a jib, steady, etc. Also the locking on the 1030s is the same as the 1030b and 1030hd and even still in the new 1030ds heads, and constant locking and locking will strip the main bolt that holds the damn thing together. I just fixed my friends 1030b for the third time last week and told him to try to balance from the camera bridge plate, and not always from the lock on the head. We both have the 1030b heads, my never has a problem (i'm using the europlate) but his keeps breaking cause he uses the ET 1030 dovetail.

Them parts for the locking aren't that expensive, but the main bolt thread can strip from constant pressure of locking and unlocking, and once it strips there goes tilting the camera without the whole camera sliding down. I was really close to buying the ET 1030 dove tail myself but not after using it on some jobs. Get the large europlate from B&H after you contact Oconnor for the missing parts. Also replace the rosettes for the pan handle before you buy a new one or your strip the teeth of your new panhandle within 3 months. Don't be afraid of using a small hammer to bang out the old rosette from the head, theres a locking pin in there besides the 3 bolts.

what you can get from B&H
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/261478-REG/OConnor_1030_268_1030_268_Large_European_Quick.html
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/234650-REG/OConnor_1030_145_1030_145_14_5_Pan_Handle.html

Oconnor LA contact info
dave.patton@vitecgroup.com
(818) 847-8666

Thanks for the great tips Jon, you seem to have lots of experience fixing these heads! The ET plate just seems like a good idea, it keeps the center of gravity low to the head, but it makes sense that 19mm rods in the bridgeplate will hit the pan handle. I'll probably just go with the standard euro quick release and continue to use my WC plate then, seems like less of a pain. I found a picture of the bottom of the ET plate and I see what you mean about the recessed threads too.
 
I would recommend the Large 120mm euro quick release linked above paired with a standard 12" arri dovetail. This allows the QR plate used to be universal with other heads. Typically you quick release off the plate with a dovetail attached allowing the use of Ronford QR plates etc to be used on carts, prep tables, Jib heads.

Then as mentioned make sure the head has its safety pin underneath the quick plate mounted which will prevent any accidental sliding out of the dovetail tray.

Also keep in mind the rosette works with any O'Connor handle so you can search around consignment shops for any 2060, 2575, 120 handles that also extend.
 
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