Welcome to our community

Be a part of something great, join today!

Log in
  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

noise..... what's wrong

D

Danny Robashkin

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 13, 2008
Messages
50
Reaction score
0
Points
0
So this seems to be happening to be no matter if I shoot with an HVX 200 or a RED, but I can't get a noise free image. Even when shooting outdoors, where light clearly isn't an issue I still see noise. Not only in the shadows mind you, but on lit sides of buildings.

What would be a couple of common user errors to result in high noise?
 
If you post a few example pics it might be easier to diagnose, a few things can cause noise, lightening up underexposured raw files being one.
 
Just because the light is there doesn't mean you're not underexposing it. On the post side, you could be messing up a whole number of ways. More than I'd care to list. Maybe you could find someone near you to consult with.

Also, the HVX is just a noisy camera in general.
 
HVX-200 have pretty much noise, and noise are visible in shadows on many cameras. In red footage also. I way to get rid of noise in some degree is to crush blacks.
 
The RED One performs best when lit and rated for exposure within the range of ISO 160 to 320 (give or take), depending on your subject. I mean, at least in my experience.
 
Hmmm yes exposure and noise. I have found the RED ONE becomes very noisy if not exposed correctly. If you start pushing her too far under to protect highlights then noise comes along not just in little boot loads but truck loads.
 
So your shot looks pretty underexposed, and exposed in tungsten which means the blue channel is starved. I'm not sure it's more noise than normal.

Try, rating the camera at 320 ASA rather than 500 and using daylight balanced sources or more tungsten light plus an 80A filter.

Use brightness and contrast or curves first rather than exposure controls in RedAlert.

I think an outdoor shot would be much more helpful to see actually.

IBloom
 
Vush, my suggestion to you is to leave the default camera settings for exposure and color temperature alone, light for ISO 160-320, depending on how contrasty or flat the scene may be... and let it rip. That will yield the most flexibility and latitude in post.

In other words... favor the sensor and the sensor will favor you in the end.

Of course, this is only my opinion and your mileage may vary.

Good luck!
 
Build 17.

That is why I want you guys to download the outdoor shot. Shot outside, everything should be good, but still noisy.....
 
Both of these shots are underexposed and that'll lead to grain they are also 2k which will magnify it. Shooting at 500 asa is a trade-off as it is (or used to be more so ) in film. If you look at these r3d's at a 250 asa setting they become relatively noise free but dark.
I usually expose the camera at 250asa and open the iris until one of the channels clips, then back it off a bit. This gives me a great quicktime image and a full sensor exposure.
When you say REAL exposure you need to consider what the real asa rating of the camera is. Take a look at the camera image while switching between raw and redcode and determine what you think is the REAL asa of the chip.
My 2 cents.
Shane.
 
Correct that they are dark at the "optimal exposure."

But even then, I would say there is a ton of noise even when viewing them at ASA 160-320.
 
Isn't 2K just a crop of the 4K. Meaning same noise level, just more noticable if comparing to a downsized 4K frame?
 
"Exposing for" and "viewing at" are two different things, Vush. Again, the camera's sensor is optimized for ISO 320 exposure in daylight. Anything else, is a deviation from the norm. Tinkering with the camera settings only alter metadata. It does nothing to the sensor's ability to acquire an image. That remains the same. Exposure is key. When you shoot, go for the most "balanced" image you can produce and you will be rewarded in post. That's the beauty of REDcode.
 
2K is more compressed than 4K??? Wouldn't it be the other way around if anything?
 
If it was less compressed, we wouldn't be able to shoot 120fps with it (pure guess). I really try not to shoot anything in 2K unless I have to go over 60fps. 3K definitely holds up quite a bit better than 2K.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top