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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Nikon mount and Nikon lenses...

Thanks for all the info everyone! Your giving me quite the list to go through and research. I'm pretty set for zooms on the Canon front. If you had to pick 3 Nikon Primes to start with which would they be?

From the AIS series: 85mm f1.4, 50mm f1.4, then either 20mm f2.8 or 135mm f2.0, depending on whether you want to go wider or longer.

From the G series: 85mm f1.4, 35mm f1.4, 24mm f1.4 (that's a lot more money, but great glass) and I'd pick up the 50mm f1.4 as soon I could. Or buy it first, it's the cheapest of the lot, but you already own a 50mm Canon.
 
I came across this dumb nikon mount for the EPIC.

http://cinemods.com/

Their ACT 19 mount is approved by RED.

Does anyone know if the Nikon has been approved by RED?


David
 
I know you asked for 3 primes, but here are the 4 I love. 24mm f/1.4 G, 35mm f/1.4 G, 50mm f/1.4 G and 85mm 1.4 G using the Optitek mount. The 50mm is not Nanocoated, but is certainly the most afordable. All have image circles to cover the Monstro/Dragon when that sensor becomes available. Just a ballpark guess is around $7000 for the lenses and mount, but I don't think you would ever look back. Just my 2 cents.
 
I came across this dumb nikon mount for the EPIC.

http://cinemods.com/

Their ACT 19 mount is approved by RED.

Does anyone know if the Nikon has been approved by RED?


David
Thanks for sharing, David.

Question for you or anyone: If I have two cameras... one with the new Red Nikon Smart mount and one with this dumb mount, can I set a G series lens using the Red Smart mount and then mount the lens on this dumb mount and have it keep the settings?
 
Elsie N said:
can I set a G series lens using the Red Smart mount and then mount the lens on this dumb mount and have it keep the settings?

I don't know. I know that using a mount like ProLock, or an EOS adapter, the IRIS is fully closed when I take the lens off.
 
I don't know. I know that using a mount like ProLock, or an EOS adapter, the IRIS is fully closed when I take the lens off.
Doesn't sound promising. Thanks Stacey.
 
I don't know. I know that using a mount like ProLock, or an EOS adapter, the IRIS is fully closed when I take the lens off.

If you use an EOS adapter with a G-series Nikon lens, make sure it's one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Adapter-Nikon-Canon-Digital/dp/B003TYFEJG

Full aperture control via a little knob :-)

Other than that, no - the iris is effectively spring-loaded to a fully stopped-down position. So 'setting' it via another device won't work.

Mike
 
A thought... I'm pretty vague on this but I kind of remember someone posting a year or two ago that you could set a G lens on a DSLR and jam a matchstick in it somewhere and it would hold aperture at that setting. You could then mount it on the R-1 dumb Nikon mount. Sounds a little harsh but in an extreme case, might do as a work-a-round. Anyone remember that or know anything about it?
 
I came across this dumb nikon mount for the EPIC.

http://cinemods.com/

Their ACT 19 mount is approved by RED.

Does anyone know if the Nikon has been approved by RED?


David
I noticed they make a Leica M series adapter to a PL mount. Other companies often make adapters for other lens to a PL mount. Why does no one make an adapter for Nikon lenses to the PL Mount?
 
I think you would have to rehouse the lens because the sensor distance would change with an adaptor.

Someone like Jacek or Matt Dulcos could answer this better.

This is why the A mount was invented. One mount with several different lens attached adapters to convert the lenses to the universal a mount. It could do about any lens but not canon because of sensor distance.

David
 
I think you would have to rehouse the lens because the sensor distance would change with an adaptor.

Someone like Jacek or Matt Dulcos could answer this better.

This is why the A mount was invented. One mount with several different lens attached adapters to convert the lenses to the universal a mount. It could do about any lens but not canon because of sensor distance.

David
Sounds about right. Just always had me wondering why.
 
It just comes down to millimeters.

That distance from the back of the lens to the sensor or film plane has to be exact. This is why some lenses need to be shimmed.

Nikon and PL mounts are the same distance. Canon is less/closer.
 
I think my basic set of nikon lenses would be really great with Scarlet without paying too much money; I got:
Fisheye 10.5 f2.8, zoom 17-55 f2.8, 50mm f1.4, 105 f2.8 macro, It covers fisheye, wide zoom, portrait and tele+macro.
I also got the 24-70 f2.8 it's strange, I rarely use it. Maybe should I consider the wonderful 12-24 f2.8 and 70-200...?
The other f1.4 primes would be awsome too ;-D
 
Elsie,

Yes you can "fix" the iris tab with a thin short strip of tape, or I suppose with a match stick (although I would not do it that way due to it either falling out into the lens or camera body). The only way to accurately know your F stop would to go wide open. How else would you know what F stop you have? This is true for all G lenses. I even spent a lot if time and modified the Red dumb mount, and installed my own self made iris control with rotating bezel. Several months later Optitek came out with their R1 Prolock Nikon mount. I couldn't get the money out of my wallet fast enough to buy one. It is the best accessory I have bought to date. I have about 25 Nikon lenses, and it was a real force multiplier for me. No declicking my AIS lenses, and all G lenses are controlable. Just as important is the Prolock method of lens mounting. No lens movement or rotation in the mount when pulling focus. Rock solid. No lens support needed for the much loved 70-200 f/2.8mm either. The Red dumb mount needed one even for the 24-70mm in my opinion. Hope this helps.
 
Elsie,

Yes you can "fix" the iris tab with a thin short strip of tape, or I suppose with a match stick (although I would not do it that way due to it either falling out into the lens or camera body). The only way to accurately know your F stop would to go wide open. How else would you know what F stop you have? This is true for all G lenses. I even spent a lot if time and modified the Red dumb mount, and installed my own self made iris control with rotating bezel. Several months later Optitek came out with their R1 Prolock Nikon mount. I couldn't get the money out of my wallet fast enough to buy one. It is the best accessory I have bought to date. I have about 25 Nikon lenses, and it was a real force multiplier for me. No declicking my AIS lenses, and all G lenses are controlable. Just as important is the Prolock method of lens mounting. No lens movement or rotation in the mount when pulling focus. Rock solid. No lens support needed for the much loved 70-200 f/2.8mm either. The Red dumb mount needed one even for the 24-70mm in my opinion. Hope this helps.
All good information Vance.
Thanks
 
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