Nikon & Canon glass suggestions to Birger mount

[Evin Grant]

From the Nikon perspective I've shot wit the 12-24 f4 for three years now and never noticed the distotion it seems to be worse than the 10-22 by about .5% at 12mm but otherwise on par according to slrgear.com. It does however have a constant f4 aperture so adjusting iris after a zoom is not necessary, if you are getting the EOS mount the Tokina 12-24 f4 is supposed to be just as good. The next interesting lens IMO is the 17-55 f2.8 AFS Nikkor supposedly this lens is very sharp wide open, only improving slightly by f4, good range too. I've already discussed the 17-35mm AFS plenty, the 28-70 f2.8 AFS is a great lens but I worry about the extention of the front element when zooming, some sort of hood/donught would need to be developed. Of coarse the 70-200 f2.8 VR AFS is a no brainer in tele lenses. Hopefully Nikon will introduce AFS primes soon, so far the only ones are the 10.5mm fisheye, 105mm 2.8 VR macro and super teles like the 200mm f2 AFS VR and 300mm f2.8 AFS VR.
The great thing is you can still use all those awesome AF and MF Nikkors on the same mount with a standard follow focus.

Still, a great super versitile system could be just three lenses, 12-24 f4, 17-55 f2.8 and 70-200 f2.8 VR.

 

[Emanuel A.]

Thanks Evin for your care on your reply.

 

[Emanuel A.]

regarding the 10-22 zoom :- from the following article

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-S-10-22mm-f-3.5-4.5-USM-Lens-Review.aspx

"Equivalent to a 16-35mm zoom on a 1.6x field of view crop factor camera, the Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM..."

so does this mean the 16-35mm f/2.8 would give exactly the same field of view on Red as the 10-22?

If so, then the 16-35 would be a better choice as it's not only L series and a sharper lens but a faster lens than the 10-22.

please someone correct me if im wrong, I'm still learning here.

On your quote: «so does this mean the 16-35mm f/2.8 would give exactly the same field of view on Red as the 10-22?»

The opposite can be true if you as RED 35mm shooter put the 10-22mm on a comparative with the 135 (full frame) photography [ LINK ] where a 10mm focal length has this correspondence on SLR use.

RED 35mm is similar to DSLR sensor sizes.

Here's some useful bibliography here:
http://www.reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?t=2771&page=2

It's worthy of your reading.

Hope this helps.

 

[Dexter Gregoire]

Check out this lens;
http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=ModelInfoAct&fcategoryid=153&modelid=7312

The review from check this link gives it great reviews.

Compare the vignetting and the ISO Crops to the EF 300mm f/2.8L IS USM which is a $6000 lens. I'm looking at the EF 135mm f/2L USM for $1000. I may get, because even sample pictures are comparable to the EF 35mm f/1.4L USM which take good looking pictures.

Spend some time here, it may help.
http://the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-Lens-Reviews.aspx

 

[Mark B.]

It's not just picture quality you have to look for, it's also the breathing when focusing. Plus, I think the Birger mount is going to allow use of image stabilization (correct me if I'm wrong though), so keeping a lookout for that feature will also be relevant for some people.

 

[Karl H]

All Im saying Emanuel is that from my understanding, and I could be wrong. the 10-22 on the Red would give you the exact same focal length as the 16-35 on the Red (as one was designed for DSLRs, the other for full frame)

given that option I would get the 16-35 over the 10-22. The main reason being the wider aperature throughout the zoom.

why did you choose the 10-22 over the 16-35, just curious...

 

[Emanuel & Co]

I cannot answer on Emanuel's behalf since I'm just working with him (he's on vacations now). But I can tell, you seem to misunderstand the subject. Have an accurate reading on the link that he provided.

The 10-22mm on the Red would give you a similar focal length as the 16-35mm on the full frame, not on the Red!

The 16-35mm is designed for full frame but on the Red, it will have the same coverage than the 10-22mm. The Red One's sensor area won't change because you put there a lens with larger coverage. The 16-35mm will be cropped on the Red. There will be magnification. Thus, you cannot get the same aspect on the Red with a 16mm than you have with the same focal length on the full frame. A 10mm will always be wider than 16mm, no matter the lens (or image circle coverage) you use. I cannot surely know why Emanuel is going there, but I can guess after several years learning with him.

Cris