Welcome to our community

Be a part of something great, join today!

Log in
  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

News from Cool Lights

HMI questions

HMI questions

Hi Richard

Great to see the HMI's back in stock.

It appears that the ballast can be used for both the 575w Fresnel, and the 1.2 Par.

That's great.

Are the head cables interchangeable?

Is there a longer head cable for the 1.2 Par available, I couldn't find one on the site.

Does the ballasts have active power factor correction? wasn't in the specs.

Can the ballast drive the Arri equivalents (575 Fresnel, 1.2 Par)?

I need to add a couple of instruments, and it would be great if they would play nice with each other.

And thanks for the filter panel for the LED's. It will be great not to have to spend the time to gel these guys, deal with wind noise etc. The minus green filter panel will be a big help.

Cheers,

Steve
 
Hi Stephen,

Head cables are not interchangeable between 575w and 1200.

I don't have a longer cable at this time but we can certainly get one.

Yes the ballast has power factor correction.

Yes can drive Arri heads.

Hope this helps.
 
Hi Richard,

Nice work. Do you have any additional photos of the 1200w hmi head? Would love to see one powered up with a wide lens and the beam shape on a wall.

A 50' head cable is a must have. That length is generally enough distance to get the ballast away from the set, for sound issues. Will a 1200 Arri head cable work with the ballast and 1200w?

Thanks
 
Hi David,

I don't have additional photos at the moment and don't have any of the 1200w pars where I'm at. Yes the cable works. The ballast is super quiet.
 
Hey Richard

It's a cool thing that you do - and after reading all your posts on here and on your website - I'm really interested in switching up my workflow from Tungsten based to Flos or LEDs...

Since I'm kind of new to the whole cool light realm, I had a question for you as I shop at your site.

Is there some sort of handy dandy chart that shows the Flos and LEDs and their equivalent Tungsten outputs? I saw your post here about that new LED fixture which had the equivalent output of a 2k tungsten - and to have that kind of info would be great for me as I piece together a new kit.

Thanks for doing what you do!

Jon
 
How do your lights compare to Flolights? Besides the price difference.

I am looking to place a big order for the studio I work for.
 
I've seen the units, they're made here in China by a company called "Lishuai Photo" in the city of Yuyao. Thus, Flolights is just a sales agent for Lishuai here in the USA. Its not our business model to carry other factories products for the most part, as a middle man, so I chose not to sell it and thought we could do better. As far as I'm concerned, its a lot better and I wouldn't have been comfortable selling those models. I am comfortable with what we're doing.

Here's a few things that come to mind, perhaps others have comments as well:

- According to my own observations, from Miltos, and a couple other of my customers, the LED 600 is brighter than the Lishuai LED 1000 but I haven't had it quantified yet so is anecdotal how much it would be. I have a "500" but don't have the "1000" model.

- When I checked our "flood" 600 against their 500 model myself, our photometrics were double that model in output. Our latest spot is well over double their brightness (close to 3 times the one I have here)--totally blows it away.

- CRI is the same or lesser than ours despite what they report on their website.

- Ours has a dimmer, their new units may have a dimmer now, not sure about that.

- Ours includes carrying case, filter panel set, etc. Last I heard, their unit doesn't have such accessories.

- We have battery plates and softbox as an option, not sure about them.

- I hear they have 4 pin XLR "option" but not sure how that works and how you order it. Otherwise, the model I had here was 220v only plug in direct to wall.

- Our barndoors are easily removable, theirs attach and remove with screws--not easily.

- We have a gel frame accessory holder on ours, theirs didn't in the past, I don't know about currently.

- They put that crinkled mirror aluminum behind the LEDs and on the barndoors. While that may work for a "soft light" like a flo to intensify the output, its really a bad idea with LEDs or other hard lights (all kinds of specular issues) and I think most people may find they take that off. Its a "feel good" thing they put on there to make it look like the Lishuai flos which are found quite commonly on flolights, Ebay, fotodiox, etc.

So, basically you're paying more for a lesser product IMO.
 
Richard Andrewski said:
- According to my own observations, from Miltos, and a couple other of my customers, the LED 600 is brighter than the Lishuai LED 1000 but I haven't had it quantified yet so is anecdotal how much it would be. I have a "500" but don't have the "1000" model.
Click to expand...

I can personally confirm this.. I have both here.
 
Wow. I'm so glad I asked this question. I felt kinda rude doing so.
 
Do you have any plans to make a Wall-o-lite equivalent?
 
You mean an LED version? Not yet, the largest for now I have planned is the 2500, then we'll have to move to a different type of LED to get other larger output IMO.

Do you want to use that as cyc lighting? I'm not sure that LED is the best for cyc lighting. I think flos may still be great for that.
 
No I am talking about flos.

Like something with T5 tubes
 
Certainly something to consider. You use those on the floor or high up for cyc lighting? And what about something like an efficient flo-based space light for overall flat lighting in a multi-dimensional cyc area?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top