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New Cinegear Motor - Quick Impressions.

Ned Wilson

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So I received my new and improved Cinegear WFF motor. First a little background. I was an early adopter of Cinegear as I thought the receiver combined with the motor was brilliant and real weight saver. So I bought it for gimbal work where every ounce counts. The first motor had some issues. Occasional no talk moments where it would stop working and we'd have to reboot. The lag was horrible. Good enough for gimbal wide lens but definitely not for precise long lens work. Then the other annoyance was the Lemo cable fail after two days.

So when they intro'd a new motor as a trade in for the old for 100.00, I jumped at it. Last week they sent me the new motor and a new lemo cable. My AC's who were Bartech and Preston people were intrigued and immediately set to it. First thing I wanted to see was the lag. Huge improvement! There is still lag but better than a Bartech, still not in Preston or Heden territory. We tried it with a Canon 70-200 at 140mm T 2.8 1/2 as a somewhat worst case scenario. Unfortunately as the talent slightly rocked on his mark, my AC had to perform micro adjustments of a millimeter or so on the wheel back and forth. The Cinegear couldn't keep up with this sort of thing so we swapped it for a mechanical FF and were fine. Now granted with a proper cine lens, I doubt this would be an issue as the longer focus draw would help, but for those who on occasion may have to pull on a long stills lens, this is a problem. You're better off going mechanical. A Heden or Preston wouldn't have an issue with this but if you have those on set you probably aren't shooting on still glass.

Otherwise, the lag on the new Cinegear motor is 80 percent better and acceptable for 90 percent of work or more. It's more than good enough for my original purpose, gimbal work. I can now do quick look over racks that before the delay didn't make this possible. Well worth the 100.00 bucks. Regarding range, I've never fully tested this as my Paralinx gives out on range before the Cinegear. My Paralinx in NYC unobstructed gets me 70' at best.

But now for the bad. Three times within a couple hours it just stopped talking to the hand controller and we'd have to re-boot. While this may not seem like a real big issue, how can I justify bringing this onto jobs where a re-set is expensive (stunts, pyro, crowds, etc). On a low budget indie, the worst that can happen is you miss a great performance. Which would really suck and make you look foolish but you can re-take it. But imagine if it were on A cam for a situation where we blow crap up? If my gear failed on that I'd be collecting unemployment the next week.

On a bright note, they sent me a new right angle lemo that's ten times better built and more flexible than the old coiled version. However, they need to take care of the communication breakdown glitch. I'm hoping it can be done with firmware because otherwise I love this unit. You can say I got what I paid for at 1700.00. But considering their commitment to improving a brilliant concept, I'm hoping they can nail this one big remaining issue.

If anyone else has the communication issue chime in and let me know how you dealt with it.
 
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I have the communication issue all the time and yes it's a problem. Sure hope Steven is aware and working on a solution.
 
My motor froze on our last shoot. Can't move it. Tried to email Steve, but haven't heard back. It's been 2 weeks
 
Haven't used RT Motion. I've only used Bartechs, Hedens, C Motion, Arri and Preston. The last three are in a different class altogether. Though C Motion is not without its hassles. Axis 1 gets unanimously rave reviews from everyone I know who's used one. Been waiting forever on the Tilta Focus group buy. But at this point, I'm going to wait to see what DJI comes out with. DJI will be coming out with a single channel with motor and receiver combined that can daisy chain to multiple dumb motors. Given that RF, range and motors are well within their wheel house, I expect they'll make an industry ground breaker in terms of price / performance without the RF hassles of my Cinegear.

So for now, until CG figures out the glitches, it's a stop gap toy.
 
My motor froze on our last shoot. Can't move it. Tried to email Steve, but haven't heard back. It's been 2 weeks

New motor or old one? Either way, this does not bode well. Whatever happened to beta testing?
 
I called diyfilmtool and thats the only way I was able to talk to Steven to replace my old motor. Its beint shipped back to me. Hopefully these issues are resolved for my gimbal use.
 
Cinegears should look at this issue, I having read this thread, I think I'll wait before I pull the trigger on the Cinegears
 
I EM'd them about the communication breakdown. I hope to hear from them soon. They made the effort to improve the lag in good faith. I'm hoping the extend the same diligence to RF reliability.
 
Good news. Cine gear reached out to me and asked me to send the motor and controller in and they'll swap it for new ones. Very cool. My guess, my controller, one of the early ones could be the issue. The saga continues. Sending it out tomorrow.
 
Update for everyone.


I received the replacement motor: I returned my extreme original for the new standard since I wanted a lighter package.

They replaced my lemo as well and it works fine.
Did a really quick and dirty test on my ronin with a 5D 3 and the standard motor with the Espresso remote control.


simply to make sure it works so far.
 
Can you test the connectivity of equipment.
1) can you try to spin the antennas (on both the motor and the controller) if they spin more then 360 degree, then the soldering is broken which explains the poor connectivity
2) connect the equipment and spin the nob left and right for 2 mins. if the connection is lost during within the 2 mins, then its a manufacting problem. sent it back and we will give you a working one.
3) test it with all other radio and wireless equipment on. when the connection is drop, restart the motor and reconnect the equipment (by unplug the power ). the motor and the controller should work together and find a empty channel.

433 MHz signal is a open band and we can not stop other company from using 433. Thus, interference are bound to happen. Test the follow focus kit with all other filming equipment on, the motor and controller will work together and try its best to search a more empty channel. After they found the channel, they will remember it which will make the following day a lot better. :)

Also the following issue could cause the motor to stop function.

When the motor is experiencing situations that might be harmful to the motor, safe mode is turn on in order to protect the equipment. However, this does not mean the motor is damaged. The indication that the safe mode is on is when the light on the motor flashing blue and green constantly. If the flashing blue and green stops within 20 seconds, then the motors are still function normal. If the flashing light is not stopping after 20 seconds, please unplug the power and check the installation manual.

The following situations might trigger the safe mode.

1) Temperature
The temperature control chips will stop the motors from operating by triggering the safe mode when the internal temperature reaches 90 degree Celsius. This protects the users and prevents the motor from going into critical failure. This usually happens when the motors operate under extreme heat for long time.
To resolve this issue simply let the motor cool down and restart the power.

2) Power spike and power surge
When the motors experience unsteady current or power spike from broken or old power sources, the power surge protection chips will trigger the safe mode and prevent power surge from damaging the motor.
To resolve this please double check the power cables, batteries and other equipment that might cause this (broken cables, old batteries, or unsteady power supplies) and restart the power.

3) Stuck gears
When the gears are stuck, the position control chips will trigger the safe mode and prevent the gears from damaging each other or damaging the cameras.
The following are the causes to stuck gears situation and methods to resolve the problem:
-The tooth from the camera and the gear are too tight. In order to loosen up the contact, pull the gears away from the cameras a little.
-Dirt and dust get into the gears. Sent the motor back and we will clean, repair, and oil the gears.
-Deform gear from external force (drops, hits, or crush by heavy objects.) Sent the motor back and we will repair the broke gear.
 
Heya! Steven! please respond to my PMs and emails. I'd like to know when I will be in action.

Nick
 
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