My Red Package Configuration

[Jeffrey Hamlin]

All...

I am in charge of purchasing a RED for my schools digital media program. We have lenses, follow focus, whip, matte box, etc. My main focus with the order is to the get the RED and its main accessories. I want to have a fully operational camera ready when we go to use it. Main purpose - Music Videos, Short Films, PSA's, Commercials.

Here is the RED list that I have put together. Please let me know what you think.

Red Body Only (1)
Red Base Production Pack (1)
Red EVF (1)
Red Power Pack (1)
Nikon Mount (1)
Red Flash CF Module (1)
Compact Flash 8GB (5)
Top Mount (1)
Top Handle (1)
Top Handle Extention (1)

Question on the battery: I have a very large inventory of Sony V-Mount batteries that we use on our Sony DSR 500's and Sony DSR 250's. Can I use those batteries on the RED??

Question on the VF: Am I correct in my understanding that I can now run BOTH the RED VF and an external HD monitor?? This is an important need as the camera will be used in an instructional environment. It is pretty hard getting 12 students behind the VF at the same time

I have to put the order in tomorrow. Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[Nathan Garofalos]

You will need the LCD from RED, either 5, or 7 inch, your choice, both of which are really nice and allow you to control some of the functions of the camera from the LCD. You may want to consider more CF cards, but five is a decent amount. But I would also suggest the RED DRIVE, and an extra battery so you can have 1 battery on the camera and two on the charger.

Which film school are you buying the camera for?

 

[Jeffrey Hamlin]

Can't I use my Panasonic BT-LH1700W instead of the Red LCD?

Thanks for your help.

 

[Shawn Booth]

Also, if you plan to use top mounted rods, you will need another top mount.
Do you want dual handles? If so, you will need another handle, universal mount and handle mount.
I would agree with an additional battery, probably two more (another power pack).
Spare cables? Think about this.

Are you using 15mm rods or 19mm?

 

[Matthew Rogers]

Yes, you can use the Panasonic. However, I would find it very to shoot when looking over at a monitor like that. The EVF would be your best bet, but if you can't afford that, then get the RED LCD--you won't regret the $1700.

What watt hour are the Sony batteries? 140WH batteries get you between 90 minutes and 2 hours run time. If they are small batteries (70 watts and below) then they might not even power up the RED as it has a pretty high draw.

Matthew

 

[Jeffrey Hamlin]

I have two brands of Sony V-Mounted Batteries:

BP-GL-65
14.4 Volts
4.4 Amp Hours

BP-L-60A
14.4 Volts
5.4 Amp Hours

Would these work on the RED??

Concerning the viewing system...I am going with the RED VF as the main viewing system for the camera op. I will be using my Panasonic as a second feed (when possible) so that the rest of the class can see what is going on.

Finally, any thoughts on a case? I have looked at the RED case. It appears to be a Pelican 1620 with custom foam insert for $600. Is anyone else using this case? Thoughts??

Thanks again to all.

 

[Jim McKinney]

Finally, any thoughts on a case? I have looked at the RED case. It appears to be a Pelican 1620 with custom foam insert for $600. Is anyone else using this case? Thoughts??

If I'm correct, it is a rather large case. I'm just figuring out my set up as well, but I'm going with smaller Pelican cases: one for the Red (and its rods, mounts, gizmos and LCD and EVF when it comes), one for power supply (4 Batts, 2 chargers, AC adapter and hot-swap mount, etc.), one for mattebox, follow focus, etc.

The Pelican 1550 is what I just got (around $170), for the camera.

This makes it easier to pack into autos and carts, easier to lug around and matches the on-set workflow I'm accustomed to using. But some people have the one big case and seem happy with that.

But Pelican is the way to go.

(Man, I wish we had a Red when I was in film school!)

 

[Matthew Rogers]

As I understand and calculate amp hours to watt hours, those batteries are 64WH and 77WH (and that's brand new battery that holds a full charge) They might work, but you will be changing batteries every 60 minutes or less (most likely less.)

My plan for cases are either the 1620 or the 1650 and getting my own custom cut foam. The case (empty) can be had for under $200 and custom cut foam should run around $80-$100.

Matthew

 

[donatello b]

one top mount comes with the basic production pack ...
i see you are ordering a 2nd top mount ( which is needed for the extension top handle)

the top handle comes with the production pack ...

you may want to add a universal mount ...

consider a mini XLR to XLR cable ( one might come with camera - can't go wrong with having 2 )

also recommend the Red Drive & cable ....

 

[Jeffrey Hamlin]

Thanks Guys.

Donatello...I am giving serious thought to the RedDrive. It certainly would allow for longer capture. Do you have one? Are they as "finicky" as people say? Remember, I am going to be using this in a student based environment. I don't want something that isn't rock steady and can stand up to their use and abuse.

 

[Nathan Garofalos]

Its not as bad as some people make it out to be. The only problem is you will get dropped frames on occasion but only when something really is rattling the camera. For example if you were shooting in a helicopter, find a way to cushion the drive if you want a long record time. Its not solid state, therefore you have the dropped frame issue but only when something really rattles the camera. You can bump it when recording and nothing will happen.

Also, get spare cables, and if your doing any sort of hand held work, I still recommend the RED LCD, its THE lightest LCD I have ever used and also the best day light LCD I have used as well.

 

[J Clark]

Jeffery,

I would recommend looking for an alternative to the red drive cradle, because the Red version is really quite clunky and heavy. I would also go with an Element Technica 15mm bridge plate and their dovetail instead of Red's dovetail and shoulder mount. That way you could also put a set of our 19-15mm reduction sleeves in the red top mounts and run all 15mm rods. We bought Red's production pack and only use the top mount, cradle and handle in production.

We designed and manufactured a clamp and spud combo specifically for the Red LCD to mount on either 15mm or 19mm rods without having to unscrew it every time.

Check out some pics here...

Jim Clark
www.monstercine.com
www.hive-fx.com

 

[Shawn Booth]

Jeffery -

You really need the LCD. Even if you purchase the EVF, a 1st AC can use it for pulling focus. BUT MORE IMPORTANTLY - you are gonna wait a long while for that EVF. RED is only in the neighborhood of 200 shipped at the moment. Besides you can't operate w/o some sort of LCD at the moment.

The drive (in my experience) only gets upset when you subject it to loud noise. Movement has not done anything so far. Sound vibrations...

As far as the Pelican case - I have the RED version and love it.

 

[Martin Weiss]

Jeffery -

You really need the LCD [...] a 1st AC can use it for pulling focus.

If your 1st AC is pulling focus off an LCD, you need to find a new AC. Not only is the resolution all to low to properly judge focus, you cannot judge distances from a 2D screen. Ideal situation is to have a remote focus control, and place yourself between the camera and the subject being filmed.

 

[Shawn Booth]

If your 1st AC is pulling focus off an LCD, you need to find a new AC. Not only is the resolution all to low to properly judge focus, you cannot judge distances from a 2D screen. Ideal situation is to have a remote focus control, and place yourself between the camera and the subject being filmed.

Yes, but most 1st's I know use some sort of LCD mounted to the camera as a reference regardless of type of camera. I also know a few who pull with just their eyeballs.

 

[red i wanabe]

your gona need the lcd to help with the menus anyway.

EVF and lcd on camera for operators. Pana Lcd at video village for the rest of the class.