my EOS "smart" mount...

[Jason Osterday]

If we order a dumb mount in the new shop will the order still go in? It no longer says "out of stock" but I'd like to make sure. Thanks.

 

[Richard Wardlow]

If we order a dumb mount in the new shop will the order still go in? It no longer says "out of stock" but I'd like to make sure. Thanks.

yes the order will go in. That is actually the proper place to order now and has a much better system in place for tracking orders and informing the customer of shipping status and tracking #.

please allow between 2-4 days to ship due to the early stages of production everything isn't completely streamlined yet.

-Richard

 

[Richard Wardlow]

Is this the one that Vincent Laforet is using for his surfer project?

yes it is.. he actually has one of the first PRE-RELEASE BETA version Smart Mounts and Controller that was also custom modified for his particular setup. We are hoping with his feedback and working closely with RED we can make any additional changes and be ready for full production soon.

 

[Martin Weiss]

Been in touch with Andy (who is spoiling me with quick replies). My particular problem is most likely due to the adapter I am using. This problem is specific to using non-Canon-mount lenses with an adapter. Meaning: Most people will never experience this problem, for the others it is easily resolvable. I'll keep you posted (new adapters will probably arrive next week or thereafter.)

 

[Vincent Thomas]

Hum... I have the Contax 21mm/2.8, the 25/2.8, the 100/2, then some Leica Sumilux lens and Hasselblad lens.

Andy, Martin, what will happen in my case?

v*

Been in touch with Andy (who is spoiling me with quick replies). My particular problem is most likely due to the adapter I am using. This problem is specific to using non-Canon-mount lenses with an adapter. Meaning: Most people will never experience this problem, for the others it is easily resolvable. I'll keep you posted (new adapters will probably arrive next week or thereafter.)

 

[dVonAllmen]

Just ordered my dumb mount and your site calculated shipping as $13.21 for a total of $363.21, but paypal only rang up $350. I couldn't figure out how to get it to charge me the shipping. I created a new payment after that transaction was complete with the shipping amount.

I'm posting this here to see if this is a common problem.

 

[Jason Osterday]

the same thing occurred for me. I created a new "send money" payment and added the shipping that way. Btw I've already received a shipping email from ups. Should be here tues. Amazing turn around.

 

[Michael Hastings]

What's the difference between a "smart mount" and the "pro mount"???

Also, Andy, what on earth do I have to do to get on the mount list???? I've written, begged, emailed. . . perhaps I should try crying????

:-(

Stephen

Same question here, I sent a PM on the first day or two (months ago-had to be one of the first 10 or so) to get on the list and haven't heard anything since...

Just to be clear, I am a birger supporter/early adopter/beta tester but our primary interest is using high quality lenses in our underwater housings and don't care who makes the mount - we intend to support whatever makes sense for our customers and I am sure we will have users from both camps.

 

[Richard Wardlow]

Just ordered my dumb mount and your site calculated shipping as $13.21 for a total of $363.21, but paypal only rang up $350. I couldn't figure out how to get it to charge me the shipping. I created a new payment after that transaction was complete with the shipping amount.

I'm posting this here to see if this is a common problem.

Sorry about the shipping calculator / billing mess up... the problem has been resolved now it was due to settings on the paypal end that were overriding the main store shipping / billing amount also once all the paper work is approved we will have our merchant account and you will have the option to purchase with a credit card directly.

 

[dVonAllmen]

AuqaVideo,

Just order one
http://store.wickedcircuits.com/RED-One-Accessories/Canon-Dumb-Mount-p4.html

Now that they're in stock again you can expect it to ship pretty quickly - I got my shipping notification the day after ordering.

 

[Steve Murray]

Back Focus varies from lens to lens

Back Focus varies from lens to lens

Setting up the F/stop challenged Wicked Circuits Mount

Installation
READ all the directions and look at the photos on the website BEFORE you start to install the mount. After you remove the PL mount you have to loosen the RED BF ring and compress it before you do anything else. Very easy to install once you adjust the RED BF ring as instructed.

My lenses
I have 4 Canon zoom lenses: 10-22mm, 16-35mm II, 24-70 and a 70-200. All are F/2.8 L lenses except the 10-22. The 10-22 and 16-35 are new. All four were "cherry picked" from at least 3 new lenses. All are sharp wide open, stay sharp when zoomed and focus at infinity on Canon cameras.


The Wicked Circuits Mount
With this mount I'm getting 3 different results when setting the RED BF adjustment system. The 10-22 is about 1.5 inches turned closer towards the body than the 24-70 and the 16-35 and the 70-200 are about an inch from the 24-70. * Note - I'm talking about turning the RED BF ring not the BF distance being a inch different. The actual amount of difference to the lens-to-sensor distance is very small from lens-to-lens.

So in the end I have 3 different BF settings to get my lenses to stay in focus when zoomed. I think you may find the same result with yours -- one setting does not seem possible for all zoom lenses. If using primes you can probably set it once with your widest lens and go shoot, especially since most Canon lenses focus past infinity.


What I think is going on... This does not make sense...
OK, if on a Canon 1Ds MKII the lenses are sharp, and stay in focus when zoomed then what is going on with the RED? I think it's the IR filter being out in front of the sensor. That distance / air creates a very slight variance from lens to lens in how the light rays travel to the sensor. On the DSLR's the IR filter is sandwiched with the sensor. I'm hoping that on the Scarlet and Epic the filter will be sandwiched like on still cameras. Anybody have a thought on this?
_

 

[Evin Grant]

I tested the OLPF position on many cine zooms and still zooms. It is not the issue. Most still zoom lenses DO NOT hold focus through out the zoom. This is by design so they can be more compact and easier to QC. My advice is to get ahold of the widest fastest prime lens you can (24mm f1.4L?) and set your back focus using that lens. Any variances from there should be chocked up to sample variation and be adjusted in the electronic focus mechanism.

 

[jbeale]

I have some reasonable quality Canon still lenses including the 24-70L, and none of them hold focus exactly during zoom on my Canon DSLR, for what that's worth.

 

[Jason Ing]

Setting up the F/stop challenged Wicked Circuits Mount

Installation
READ all the directions and look at the photos on the website BEFORE you start to install the mount. After you remove the PL mount you have to loosen the RED BF ring and compress it before you do anything else. Very easy to install once you adjust the RED BF ring as instructed.

My lenses
I have 4 Canon zoom lenses: 10-22mm, 16-35mm II, 24-70 and a 70-200. All are F/2.8 L lenses except the 10-22. The 10-22 and 16-35 are new. All four were "cherry picked" from at lease 3 new lenses. All are sharp wide open, stay sharp when zoomed and focus at infinity on Canon cameras.


The Wicked Circuits Mount
With this mount I'm getting 3 different results when setting the RED BF adjustment system. The 10-22 is about 1.5 inches turned closer towards the body than the 24-70 and the 16-35 and the 70-200 are about an inch from the 24-70. * Note - I'm talking about turning the RED BF ring not the BF distance being a inch different. The actual amount of difference to the lens-to-sensor distance is very small from lens-to-lens.

So in the end I have 3 different BF settings to get my lenses to stay in focus when zoomed. I think you may find the same result with yours -- one setting does not seem possible for all zoom lenses. If using primes you can probably set it once with your widest lens and go shoot, especially since most Canon lenses focus past infinity.


What I think is going on... This does not make sense...
OK, if on a Canon 1Ds MKII the lenses are sharp, and stay in focus when zoomed then what is going on with the RED? I think it's the IR filter being out in front of the sensor. That distance / air creates a very slight variance from lens to lens in how the light rays travel to the sensor. On the DSLR's the IR filter is sandwiched with the sensor. I'm hoping that on the Scarlet and Epic the filter will be sandwiched like on still cameras. Anybody have a thought on this?
_

similar results here. still zoom lenses don't hold zoom focus. probably the best thing is what was just suggested, back focus to your widest lens.

definitely don't forget to adjust that back focus ring on the red. and don't forget to tighten it back down before you put on the mount or it won't fit exactly right.

 

[Mitch Gross]

You are seeing one of the many differences between still and cine lenses.

 

[Joel Kaye]

I have some reasonable quality Canon still lenses including the 24-70L, and none of them hold focus exactly during zoom on my Canon DSLR, for what that's worth.

My 17-55mm f/2.8 is really close if not spot on. Zoom into 55, focus and pull out from there. I've done some crash zoom shots on RED that look just fine. Maybe that lens is unique - but I'm pretty sure there must be others out there that do pretty well.

 

[Sanjin Jukic]

You are seeing one of the many differences between still and cine lenses.

But there are always exceptions

Angenieux 3x70mm(70-210mm)FD still zoom>>

holds focus through out the zoom.

 

[Steve Murray]

You guys are not getting my point.

I'm not talking about the lenses staying in focus when zooming. I'm talking about the fact that my lenses which DO all focus/zoom properly on the Canon do not on the RED without adjusting the BF for each one. The issue is the difference in BF settings between lenses on the RED. Both are digital cameras, both have IR filters and sensors, so shouldn't they be consistent once the BF is set?

This does just not make sense to me if they all work on the Canon bodies which are perma-set... And they DO stay in focus pretty well on the RED when zoomed but just not at the same BF setting.

Yes, I can get all of them to work at one BF setting but then they do not stay in focus when I zoom. And I do not want to have my lenses adjusted for the RED as I use them on both cameras. And I would prefer to not have to reset the BF when changing lenses. To me that is the main point of using the EF's - one set of lenses for both cameras - well at least until I can get my hands on an Epic FF35...

The BIG point I'm trying to make is that the distance between the IR filter and the sensor could be an issue in this process and perhaps that should be looked at for the Epic and Scarlet. Maybe I'm crazy...

Anyway it sure is nice to be able to use them on the RED - Thanks Andy!

 

[Jacek Zakowicz]

BF adjusting procedure

BF adjusting procedure

You guys are not getting my point.


Yes, I can get all of them to work at one BF setting but then they do not stay in focus when I zoom. And I do not want to have my lenses adjusted for the RED as I use them on both cameras. And I would prefer to not have to reset the BF when changing lenses. To me that is the main point of using the EF's - one set of lenses for both cameras - well at least until I can get my hands on an Epic FF35...

The BIG point I'm trying to make is that the distance between the IR filter and the sensor could be an issue in this process and perhaps that should be looked at for the Epic and Scarlet. Maybe I'm crazy...

Of course they are not getting your point. The point is rarely discussed on this forum. You should know that by now. :sarcasm:

Anyway, IMO the procedure that you are using is flawed and that is the reason for inconsistant results.
I assume you were in manual focus during the tests on your DSLR
First of all adjusting WA lenses at infinity (on camera without collimator)is about the least precise adjustment you can do. There is simply too much DOF. Try adjusting it at the shortest focusing distance after verifying that it's callibrated properly on your DSLR. Start with the widest lens and then compare the others. I've heard great opinions about the 16-35 lens so even if it's longer at the wide setting it may be a better lens to use for adjustment because is faster, sharper and more contrasty than the 10-22mm. It will make the proper focus easier to see.
Also looking through optical VF may not be the best way to judge the callibration. The split circle focusing screen may not be enough. You should take some pics and view them full res zoomed in to see the actual focus.
When you check them on the R1 you also should use the punch in 1:1 feature that is now available
Try adjusting R1 BF at the shortest focusing distance and verify the other lenses at various distances including infinity.
If you have questions you can pm me or call me with specifics.

And guys, please!!! no "what he said", "I don't know" or other basesless junk unless you have a post that would contribute to this topic.
Jacek Zakowicz, OptiTek

 

[LEON]

When you check them on the R1 you also should use the punch in 1:1 feature that is now available
Jacek Zakowicz, OptiTek

and set the camera at 2K will magnify more the image so you get more precision