Mixing regular ND and IRND from different manufacturers

[David Cho]

I apologize if something like this has been posted before but I did some searching and couldn't find an answer to this specific question.

Will it be problematic mixing regular ND and IRND from different manufacturers?

IR NDs are more expensive than regular ND filters by about $150, and from what I have seen and heard, ND.3 and ND.6 don't necessarily need IR filtering, but anything ND.9 and stronger need IR filtration. I did some searching and could not find any non-IR Tiffen ND filters in 4x5.65 size.

So I was wondering if anyone would consider it problematic to use Schneider (non-IR) ND.3 and Schneider (non-IR) ND.6 and then using Tiffen IRND .9, 1.2, and 1.5 for the Red Epic and Alexa.

http://www.filmtools.com/schneid4xnet.html
http://www.filmtools.com/tiffen-neutral-density-infrared-filters-ir-nd.html

 

[Will Keir]

They say you can mix Tiff and Schneider NDs without trouble. I've been using the NDs, a mix of both and they have color shifts, especially when shooting in bright sunlight.

So I'd like an answer too and am afraid it all comes down to doing your own tests.

Remember, the more NDs you stack, the more resolution and thus over all quality you lose.

Don't stack a .3 and a .6. Put a .9 in. If your in sun, make it a .9 NDIR.

Sometimes you are going to need 1.5, even 1.8.

Remember. If the shot is "locked off" with very little movement from actors or a scenic shot, you can increase your shutter speed to dial in the light and lose nothing in resolution. I personally love the "war look" of 1/192 or 45 degree shutter at 24 fps.

 

[Ketch Rossi]

No problems at all, just place always the Polarizer first, closer to the lens, when you use one, and always have the IRND filter last, meaning the one that gets the light first from your MB.

 

[Will Keir]

and remember, the Polarizer has to face a certain direction. Rotating changes how it functions too, how exactly I cannot say by our tests. Didn't seem to "see through" water at better or worse than it did without the Pola.

No problems at all, just place always the Polarizer first, closer to the lens, when you use one, and always have the IRND filter last, meaning the one that gets the light first from your MB.

 

[David Cho]

Thanks for the response guys. Good info.

 

[James T Mather]

Polas depend on the 90 degree angle of light hitting the surface - as an example: point your index finger at the sun with your thumb out. Keeping your finger pointed at the the sun, twist your hand around (making sure to keep your index finger pointing at the sun). Where your thumb is pointing (the band that it points at as you twist) is where the pola will do the most darkening and be the most effective. You can use this technique to establish whether or not the pola will work through windshields or water etc as you get familiar with it. Hope that helps.

 

[David Cho]

Polas depend on the 90 degree angle of light hitting the surface - as an example: point your index finger at the sun with your thumb out. Keeping your finger pointed at the the sun, twist your hand around (making sure to keep your index finger pointing at the sun). Where your thumb is pointing (the band that it points at as you twist) is where the pola will do the most darkening and be the most effective. You can use this technique to establish whether or not the pola will work through windshields or water etc as you get familiar with it. Hope that helps.

Definitely all helpful information. Gotta love this forum.