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MAXIMUM LENS MOUNTING DEPTH - Red Ranger Monstro & DSMC2 - PL

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Hello,

I've been looking all around web & users manuals on Red.com but couldn't find what I'm looking for.

I would like to know as the title says the maximum lens mounting depth possible without hurting OLPFs or touching the mount on a PL Red Camera. I'm working on an ambitious rehouse project but I absolutely need to have these measurements before going any further.

See attached pictures from Arri LF and Mini LF User Manuals technical drawing that I'm desperately trying to find.

Hope someone can help me on this.

Thanks,
Eden.
 

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Really good question! I have a converted Lomo Standard set that seems to hit the OLPF when focusing. The black flange telescopes. I wish I could find a workaround, because I really love the lenses.
 
Shaeden,

Thanks for the input, that would mean that the clearance is quite shallow on Red. Can you be more precise regarde the mount and body it was used on?
Also do you think you can measure the depths from the mount to the back end of the lens?

Do you have any chance to mount them on Alexa LF or SXT with Internal Filter Module?

Thanks,
E.
 
Really good question! I have a converted Lomo Standard set that seems to hit the OLPF when focusing. The black flange telescopes. I wish I could find a workaround, because I really love the lenses.
We have converted many Lomo spherical and anamorphic lenses to PL mounts for RED cameras and never had an issue. Alexa Mini /Amira are more restrictive than RED
 
I'll try and see if I can measure when I get back to California in a week. It's a PL mount on DSMC2 camera. When I was focusing with my lens I noticed it was getting hard to turn the focus ring. When I switched lenses I saw a ring mark on the plastic of the OLPF.
 
We have converted many Lomo spherical and anamorphic lenses to PL mounts for RED cameras and never had an issue. Alexa Mini /Amira are more restrictive than RED

Love your work Jacek! I will try to post a picture when I get back home...I've been gone for 2 months because of COVID-19. It's the older Lomo Standard Sphericals. For some reason they have a super long flange back. Plus, when you focus the flange telescopes.
 
I'll try and see if I can measure when I get back to California in a week. It's a PL mount on DSMC2 camera. When I was focusing with my lens I noticed it was getting hard to turn the focus ring. When I switched lenses I saw a ring mark on the plastic of the OLPF.

And I suppose you'd know that on a RED DSMC2 camera the back focus could be moved to a point where you'd have enough clearance for this lens. Right?
 
And I suppose you'd know that on a RED DSMC2 camera the back focus could be moved to a point where you'd have enough clearance for this lens. Right?

It doesn't work this way. Besides the fact that changing the sensor position disturbs all other lenses when you move the sensor the lens has to move as well so there always be the same clearance.
 
It doesn't work this way. Besides the fact that changing the sensor position disturbs all other lenses when you move the sensor the lens has to move as well so there always be the same clearance.

Hi Jacek, Hope you guys are doing well. We need to go back to the days of pre-COVID-19, soon. I certainly miss those days when we met people in person and had a meal together, shoot the breeze etc.

I was referring to this specific instance. If the operator knows what they are doing, you can change the back focus anytime. We used to do this during our Television studio production days.

Sometimes a DoP might insist that he/she wants to use a specific lens (perhaps for the looks or likes the freggin' lens, getting a boner etc.) If and when this occurs, you could resort to adjusting the back focus or by inserting flanges or shims to a cinema lens.
 
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Hi Jacek, Hope you guys are doing well. We need to go back to the days of pre-COVID-19, soon. I certainly miss those days when we met people in person and had a meal together, shoot the breeze etc.

I was referring to this specific instance. If the operator knows what they are doing, you can change the back focus anytime. We used to do this during our Television studio production days.

Sometimes a DoP might insist that he/she wants to use a specific lens (perhaps for the looks or likes the freggin' lens, getting a boner etc.) If and when this occurs, you could resort to adjusting the back focus or by inserting flanges or shims to a cinema lens.
Unfortunately the distance from the rear element surface to the imaging plane (sensor surface) is fixed so no matter what you do the clearance remains the same . If you move the glass away from the sensor the lens can only be sharp in macro (close up) mode.
Correction:
yes the OLPF clearance will change so you may be actually able to clear some lenses.
 
But the OLPF doesn't change postion. Only the sensor.
Yes but if the lens to sensor position is fixed and they both move forward, the rear part of the lens that hit the OLPF before may clear it now as it has moved forward with the sensor. Up to the point when the sensor is prevented from moving forward any more by the rear surface of the OLPF..
 
Yes but if the lens to sensor position is fixed and they both move forward, the rear part of the lens that hit the OLPF before may clear it now as it has moved forward with the sensor. Up to the point when the sensor is prevented from moving forward any more by the rear surface of the OLPF..

Ok so shimming the mount?
 
You could possibly look into using the Leica OLPF which was designed to sit the glass slightly further back so the M0.8's would work (the wider ones).

Not actually sure if this could resolve your issue but if you're just about hitting the glass this might get you the little smidge extra that you need.
 
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