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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Mark +1 for Torx+ Head stripped out on PL Mount

Kyle Mallory

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RED,

It looks like this is something of a problem for people installing the Nikon mount for the first time. I was able to get all bolts lose with the exception of the top-right (1-o'clock position) bolt, which stripped out (and the last one to go.. how frustrating!).

It might be worth investigating the torque settings for this bolt in particular on the assembler.

In the mean time, I have two projects over the next five days, starting Wednesday, that are requesting the Nikon mount. I only got the camera back today from another project. Any ideas on how to get this fixed, ASAP without voiding camera warranty?

Kyle
 
I once met a guy at NAB from Utah, He seemed very cool and very helpful.
Forgot his name though.
If you run out of time or run into a jam I suggest you find guys in your local area for help.

Im willing to bet someone out there will help you out if he can.
 
I once met a guy at NAB from Utah, He seemed very cool and very helpful.
Forgot his name though.
If you run out of time or run into a jam I suggest you find guys in your local area for help.

Im willing to bet someone out there will help you out if he can.

i've put the word out, the problem is that I still need the nikon mount on the camera (one of the projects was why I purchased the nikon mount).
 
i've put the word out, the problem is that I still need the nikon mount on the camera (one of the projects was why I purchased the nikon mount).

Well, I have 2 Reds with Nikon mounts that usually just sit here doing nothing, but I'm in the Orlando area, so that may not be much help.

Dave
 
It seems that most people with this problem have had the final screw or two be the ones that get stripped.

I'm thinking that the problem is not loosening all the screws evenly, so that leaving one tight to the end means that the mount is no longer held in except by that screw, and if the mount is no longer held completely flat to the camera, it will put some leverage on that final screw or two increasing the torque required to undo them? Sort of the reverse of the reason why you cycle round the bolts on a car wheel, gradually tightening up, to ensure the wheel is flat and evenly tightened on to a hub.
 
Hey Eric, (will give you a call/email in a few days time to catch up).

Anyhoo. . . . that's what i did. I alternated undoing the screws opposite all the way around. And this one was actually the second screw i undid the first time around, it jerked about a 16th of a turn that first time but it felt so tight even then it was risky and i left it - that may have been the problem that i left it -- but it was really tight in there unlike the others.

Andrew.
 
I'm thinking that the problem is not loosening all the screws evenly, so that leaving one tight to the end means that the mount is no longer held in except by that screw, and if the mount is no longer held completely flat to the camera, it will put some leverage on that final screw or two increasing the torque required to undo them? Sort of the reverse of the reason why you cycle round the bolts on a car wheel, gradually tightening up, to ensure the wheel is flat and evenly tightened on to a hub.

Could be, though in my case, I had started at the top, and went counter-clockwise around the mount, 'breaking' each bolt with a 1/2 to full turn, and moving on. So none of the bolts were completely removed, and most were still a snug tight.

Talked to RED this morning, and in my case, because of time-constraints, I'm better off to find a local, capable machine shop to remove the offending bolt.

Kyle
 
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