Macro Lense Advice

[shootblue.tv]

Hi,

I'm looking for some advice on using macro lenses on a shoot that will require filming close up shots of coins. The coins are approx 1.5" diameter and I'm interested to know what macro lense size would be most suitable for this size object. The shots will include filming engraving/details on the coins. Have seen macro lenses available from Arri (in the UK) ranging from 16mm to 200mm - does anyone have any suggestions for this type of lense? Also, are there any other considerations I should be taking into account in terms of lighting/depth of field when filming htis kind of subject?

Any advice with this most appreciated.

Jon

 

[Stephen Williams]

Hi,

You probably want to use a 100mm lens for the close ups of the coin, for the full coin I would go wider 35 or 50. You will get very narrow dof in the close ups whatever the stop, I generally like to work between T2.8-4 for macro, it's much more interesting. I shot a close up of an Omega watch hand for the Olympics commerial, that was an 85mm Super Speed on bellows @ T2

Stephen

 

[shootblue.tv]

Hi Stephen,

Thanks for the advice. Just watched the Omega Olympics Ad, looks great. Can I ask how you produce the movement shots of the watch (on the first two close-up shots, for example) - this is the kind of thing i've got in mind for the coin shots. I've got the impression that track/dolly movements are going to be too unsteady for real close up work?

Cheers,

Jon

 

[Stephen Williams]

Hi Stephen,

Thanks for the advice. Just watched the Omega Olympics Ad, looks great. Can I ask how you produce the movement shots of the watch (on the first two close-up shots, for example) - this is the kind of thing i've got in mind for the coin shots. I've got the impression that track/dolly movements are going to be too unsteady for real close up work?

Cheers,

Jon

Hi Jon,

That was motion control, movements can be a real issue with closeups. A rotating table can work well.

Stephen

 

[David W. Jones]

As Stephen points out, moves on close-ups can be a bugger.
I have had less then stellar results using a mini-skater dolly on tight macro shots, and ended up using a turntable with vari-control.
As far as lenses go for tight macro work, just remember that generally the shorter the focal length, the closer the object will need to be to the lens.
I have a Zeiss 60/2.8 makro in my kit that is a great little lens, but sometimes needs to be very close for 1:1 macro work.
While not optimum, I have used a Zeiss Mutar 2X with the 60mm to effectively double the distance from the lens to the object.
Good Luck!

 

[Stephen Williams]

As Stephen points out, moves on close-ups can be a bugger.
I have had less then stellar results using a mini-skater dolly on tight macro shots, and ended up using a turntable with vari-control.
Good Luck!

Hi David,

The skater does not repeat 100% which is probably the issue you had.
Another thing to bear in mind is at 1:1 you need 2 extra stops of light(4 times) than a conventional light meter would suggest, so adding the x 2 mutar your object will start getting hot.

Stephen

 

[Ed Watkins]

I use Nikons for my Macro work.

The classic 105mm 2.8 and 50mm 2.8 macro lenses give very nice results.
I use a bellows system coupled to my RED for some shots and extension tubes and reversing rings for others.

It helps to have the whole camera setup on a precisely movable platform, depth of field can be minute at higher magnifications.

Cool lights (HMI's, LED's) are very useful as you need a lot of light on the subject, which often requires placing them close to the subject.