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low flourescent lights?

Joel Arvidsson

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Is there any "low flourescent" studiolights that is made to light from the floor and up? I mean to light talents from the ground and up in a greenscreen.

It would be nice to use an light that is constructed for it rather than lean a reagarly tripod light.

Cheers
Joel Arvidsson
 
Yes like that but some superlow stand so the light just have an foot on the floor. Its good with the "slingshot" mount you have since its easy to tilt the light up and down. I have some facon eyes florescent with a single mount witch doesn´t feel so sturdy. Do you have a light like that with just a foot instead of a trypod. Perhaps with small wheels on the foot./Joel
 
Im also looking at a 3 point spotlight kit. I think it would be best to go with daylight lights since i have that in the studio (accept an 1k Arri spot) and daylight is better light for red as I understand. But you must go with hmi lights to get daylight and hmi is much more expensive I think. I can of course gel tungsten to daylight but the gel eats like half the light..
I can of course get bigger lights but they are heavier to carry around.
 
yea a plate like but maby a shape like an bigger X (like the button of an office chair) so its gets more stable.
 
aha, then it should work.

Then for the lightkit im thinking on. Its hard to decide if I should get a tungsten kit or go with hmi so I get daylight instead. I read this thread:
http://www.reduser.net/forum/archive/index.php/t-18855.html

And it had some good answers. But im still not sure what would be the best. Like I said I already have daylight in the studio so it would be good to keep every light in the same color to avoid gels. I want a small kit that is easy to travel with. I already have 5x55w flourescent but and they can be a bit big sometimes with there triopods. I would like a kit that fits inside a hardcase.
 
Can you just use a turtle c-stand? It's junior pin, but you can always get a buttplug.
 
Yeah, the guy doesn't know the first thing about grip equipment, or lighting, or rigging, and English is not his first language, and you have to throw butt plug at him? ;-) I tried to find a picture of a turtle based c-stand with a "Junior to baby pin adapter" inserted but came up empty, so I left it at the baby plate. That is the correct solution though ;-) (the butt plug)

Nick
 
Hehe I know some about grip etc but I was curios if it was a lights that was constructed to be a "floor light", before I check out a grip solution. But I think you have right its better to use grip so you can use the light for more applications. Im a compositor/videophotographer and not so much grip. Thats why im asking you:bigear:

I must also decide to go with tungsten or hmi for a new feild kit. Is tungsten the wrong direction to go using the red?

Yes, english is not my first language. In Sweden we often build the sentences almost the opposite way. Thats why we sometimes sounds like Yoda:001_smile:

I tried to google the turtle based c-stand with a "Junior buttplugg" but i think its the wrong grip?? ;-)
 
Hahaha, yeah... I just didn't feel like doing 101. But here are the visuals:

1) Turtle stand (notice the middle of the c-stand is removable and leaves a junior sized receiver hole.)

filmandvideolighting_2086_2725721


2) Most lights under 5k wattage are baby pin lights, meaning they have a receiver for a baby pin... that which is smaller then junior. Lights at 5k or above tend to have male junior pins. They fit in the turtle stand... but if you want to use the baby pin (receiver) lights you need a buttplug... which is a male junior pin to male baby pin adapter.

ASSET_46732.jpg
 
Or just use a stand adapter that adapts to either a baby stand or a junior stand like this one:

http://www.coollights.biz/clb2y1-baby-stand-yoke-adapter-p-54.html

Most good yoke to stand adapters have that ability: 1 1/8" (28mm junior) on the outside diameter and 5/8" (16mm baby) on the inside diameter. They're also known as TVMP adapters.

I saw you wanted wheels in one of your posts, another way to do that is just buy a stand with wheels on it:

http://www.coollights.biz/clls1a-cool-lights-professional-rolling-light-stand-p-99.html


Hope this helps.
 
Hope this helps.

Helps you sell product, no offense.

I'm still not sure how those products you've linked to best help him light low on the floor. There are very little industry standard and safe methods of lighting from the floor besides a turtle base c-stand and/or pancake baby plate. The former being able to take junior pin lights and baby pin lights (with adapter) and the latter being primarily for baby pin lighting units. Those are the best, standard, and safe ways set a light low on the floor.

Second best, I suppose you could use a gary coleman/baby c-stand/baby light stand, but from my understanding of the posters requirements, those stands are still not low enough. It was mentioned that the low-light stand would be preferred with wheels and again a link provided by our friend at cool lights offers a product with wheels, but does not solve the orig poster's requirements.

As to Cool Lights, your sponsorship of RedUser is greatly appreciated by myself and others, as is your dedication and work in the indie-lighting industry... but I find both your replies to this inquiry frustrating as they do not offer the best solutions to solve his problem but instead advertise a product of yours. Salesman first, grip second huh?

Again, I wish to respectfully thank cool-lights for their innovation in lighting and sponsorship of this site, but please don't steal opportunities to advertise your products . My .02$
 
Back to the OP, I've used our studio fluorescent lights many times on the floor with the yoke resting behind it at a 45 degree angle to act as a back brace. For that matter any flo with a good yoke could work like that. No wheels but that's not a common request and doubtful you'll find it. A dolly or kid's wagon (like the old little red carts) is as close as you'll get without some DIY. Otherwise, its more commonly the floor stand for wheels.
 
Helps you sell product, no offense.

I'm still not sure how those products you've linked to best help him light low on the floor. There are very little industry standard and safe methods of lighting from the floor besides a turtle base c-stand and/or pancake baby plate. The former being able to take junior pin lights and baby pin lights (with adapter) and the latter being primarily for baby pin lighting units. Those are the best, standard, and safe ways set a light low on the floor.

Second best, I suppose you could use a gary coleman/baby c-stand/baby light stand, but from my understanding of the posters requirements, those stands are still not low enough. It was mentioned that the low-light stand would be preferred with wheels and again a link provided by our friend at cool lights offers a product with wheels, but does not solve the orig poster's requirements.

As to Cool Lights, your sponsorship of RedUser is greatly appreciated by myself and others, as is your dedication and work in the indie-lighting industry... but I find both your replies to this inquiry frustrating as they do not offer the best solutions to solve his problem but instead advertise a product of yours. Salesman first, grip second huh?

Again, I wish to respectfully thank cool-lights for their innovation in lighting and sponsorship of this site, but please don't steal opportunities to advertise your products . My .02$

For the record, this post fails in both not giving offense, and being respectful. if you were SERIOUS in that goal, you would have offered your techno-advanced grip advice without putting down a respected poster.

I find Richard to be very helpful, and a wonderful person to deal with on both a professional and personal level.

Jay
 
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