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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Looking for wide angle/macro lens for slow-mo shots

C

C.K.

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Hi everybody,

I'm looking for a piece of advice here.
I want to shoot very wide and very close from an object. The idea is to make it look enormous. On top of that, I want to shoot very slow-mo (120 fps) which means that we will crop 2K.

I asked friends for advices, I was told about a cooke 6.5mm (Pl mount, for 16mm cameras) which would have been fine, except that it appears that the closest focus point is 200mm. So it's not going to work.

Anyway, I hope you get the idea... Does anybody have an idea or have done something similar??

Thanks in advance
 
You are going to want the fastest lens you can possibly find or plan on having a LOT of light. Also, keep in mind that the because the Red sensor is 24.4mm not full-frame, there is already some cropping occurring even at 4k. (Divide by 1.6).

Then at 2k, I think you crop down to the center 12mm x 6.85mm of the sensor which although the angle of view doesn't change, the area you are cropping to is essentially the same as what you'd get with a lens having double the focal length.

Combining the two factors, a 10mm lens on a RED One shooting at 2K would give you about the same framing as a 32mm lens on a Canon 5D Mark II. (10mm x 1.6 x 2). However, the angle of view is still 10mm, it's just that you are cropping off all but the center. In other words, it's not the same as a 32mm shot in terms of perspective. Hey guys, please forgive me if I'm wrong on this and just correct me. Still trying to wrap my head around it all.

One possiblity is to shoot at 60fps in 4K and use Shake to retime the footage to 120fps. It does a pretty amazing job of frame interpolation and assuming you have a fast enough lens and enough light to increase shutter speed and minimize motion blur, you should be able to get excellent retiming results and then you can add motion blur back in with Shake at the end.

Other RedUsers...If I am off on anything here, please correct. I'm just trying to assist based upon my current understanding.

-shooter
 
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David W. Jones said:
How large an object are you shooting?
Click to expand...

I will be shooting a plate that's about 8cm wide...

What I'm looking for here, is advices on lenses. A reference of a wide enough lens that can shoot macro.
 
How much distortion can you tolerate?

Perhaps something like the Peleng 8mm fisheye could be a good choice. They're relatively inexpensive and the lens has an MC42 mount, which can be adapted to PL, Canon, Nikon, etc.. By simply threading on the proper mount adapter. If you were to offset the FFD of the PL mount, you could turn the lens into an extreme close focus or macro lens. And the spherical fisheye distortion isn't too extreme when cropped to 2K. You could even crop a bit larger and compensate or rectilinearize it in post maybe?
 
C.K. said:
I will be shooting a plate that's about 8cm wide...

What I'm looking for here, is advices on lenses. A reference of a wide enough lens that can shoot macro.
Click to expand...
By plate do you mean a relativetly flat (plano) surface?
 
If you live in a city with a good photography rental house you could try out a few still lenses in the store for free. For example, you could pop a Canon 50mm and/or 60mm Macro on a digital Rebel (which has the same size imager as the RED One) and see what your subject will look like. If you are that close to the object you might not need to go as wide as you think you do.

Also, I think Shooter is right in that you are working outside the performance envelope of the camera so you will need a little help. You want to shoot 2K for slow motion but you also want the shot to be very wide. These two things are at direct odds with each other. Shooting the wide 4K frame and interpolating additional frames seems to be the best solution. Another solution would be to shoot the object on a green screen and give it to a CGI artist to fly it into your background.

Bob
 
Take a look at the Arri / Zeiss Ultra 16 Lenses, the start at 6mm Focal Lenght and are T1.3. I remember they advertise the lenses as close focus.
But even the cooke with 200mm close focus and considering the lense about 100m in lenght means that you can focus to about 8-10cm away from the front lens.
 
I have a Zeiss t1.3 macro 12mm in PL mount that I am selling (as I am buying a full frame 12mm lens). It covers 2k and almost 3k (small amount of vignetting at the corners). It focuses down to a couple of inches from the lens. I purchased it for 1200 and had duclos lenses convert it to PL (they did a great job). I would sell it for 1500 plus shipping (which is less than it cost me to get it working on the red but realistically what I feel it is worth). I was planning to sell after the other arrived but if you are interested pm me (I can arrange a frame grab out of Redcine to show sharpness and macro suitability If you like). Best. J.
 
Macro

Macro

I think the Arri Macro 16mm lenses might be your best option. The Zeiss 10mm does not focus close (about 10 inches). Another option is the Zeiss 16mm with the focus pin pulled so that you can focus close but the Arri Macro is a sharper lens.
 
Somebody in town (L.A.) use to rent a bellows unit in Arri mount with a set of Zeiss Luminars. Anybody remeber who that was?
 
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