Welcome to our community

Be a part of something great, join today!

Log in
  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Light Meter ISO 320

A

Anthony DeRose

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 12, 2009
Messages
54
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
New York
When using a light meter set to 320 will you get the right stop to set the lens? I know stocks read the light differently and what my meter says to set the stop to at 320 may be off for the red. Of course false color and a well calibrated monitor helps very much in determining proper exposure. But I was just wondering.
 
Zakaree Sandberg said:
no, youll over expose a stop.

The camera is really iso 160-250

therefore set your meter in that range..
the specs say the camera is 320... just dont use your meter in that mode IMO
Click to expand...

Hi Zakaree,

Probably a typo but from what you've written - wouldn't it be under exposed if the camera/stock is 160-250 and you meter at 320??

Rate the camera at 160 and you remove the 1 stop headroom that you get to protect highlights.

I thought the rule of thumb from RED was if you've not used the RED ONE before meter it at 320 but if you know how the camera/sensor behaves and use on-board meters etc you can drift from the recommended 320 rating.

Anthony here are some useful threads about exposure...

http://www.reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?t=13994

http://www.reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?t=30055

Thanks,

Tom :)
 
ummmmm, i suggest doing what you know and do your own tests. RED rates the camera at 320 for a reason and drifting from this has both pros and cons...do so with care.
 
Brigham Edgar said:
...RED rates the camera at 320 for a reason and drifting from this has both pros and cons...do so with care.
Click to expand...

:iagree:

Jannard said:
...Shoot the RED ONE at ISO 320, 400 or 500 wherever possible. That is what this sensor does best. But also feel comfortable that, if you have a good reason to do so, good images can be obtained from other ISO settings. As long as you know the consequences.

Jim
Click to expand...
 
Tom Gough said:
Hi Zakaree,

Probably a typo but from what you've written - wouldn't it be under exposed if the camera/stock is 160-250 and you meter at 320??

Rate the camera at 160 and you remove the 1 stop headroom that you get to protect highlights.

Thanks,

Tom :)
Click to expand...

I think he means leave the camera set to 320 ASA but set your light meter to 160-250 ASA (I set mine to 250 most of the time).
 
Taking a single reading with a light meter on middle grey will only ever give you a reading that is correct for a scene with a specific dynamic range. If your scene has more range in the highlights, you'll probably want to close the aperture down further - and if it's lacking those super bright highlights, you will want to open up the aperture. Let the raw bar graph meter (or false color in raw mode) be your guide.

The ISO320 is absolutely correct for a wide dynamic range scene where you want to stand at least a chance of catching those highlights without clipping. But definition of ISO has a parameter on how far above mid grey you call clipping.

Graeme
 
Thanks for the help. I read a lot of people keep the camera at 320 and have their meter set at a 250 almost like overexposing a film stock by 1/3. If your overexposing the sensor but that 1/3 extra will it put you in the danger zone with highlights? I assume it won't as 1/3 is within a margin of error plus all the onboard tools the red has should keep you from clipping.

Thanks
 
If you over-expose, the camera will tell you :-) RAW meters and false color will show that over-exposure. Similarly, they'll tell you if you're really under-exposed too. A light meter might be a useful thing to give you a rough idea, but when you think about it, the camera itself is the ultimate light meter and tells you exactly what itself is capable of.

Graeme
 
Histogram and False Color are much better and more precise tools for exposure than just using a light meter.

Jim
 
Jannard said:
Histogram and False Color are much better and more precise tools for exposure than just using a light meter.

Jim
Click to expand...

Agree... i use this for metering 100% of the time..
I do use a meter when im lighting. I dont want to keep jumping back to the camera..
 
David Wyatt said:
I think he means leave the camera set to 320 ASA but set your light meter to 160-250 ASA (I set mine to 250 most of the time).
Click to expand...

Exactly.. set your meter to 250.. set your camera to 320

if you set your meter to 320 and your camera is at 320..

lets say you read a 4.0
this will actually be clipped

if you set your meter at 250.. you will read a 2.8 and for some reason, this is dead on with the 320camera asa..

but use your camera meters too
 
Zakaree Sandberg said:
]lets say you read a 4.0
this will actually be clipped

if you set your meter at 250.. you will read a 2.8 and for some reason, this is dead on with the 320camera asa..
Click to expand...

How can a T4 be clipped and a T2.8 be "dead on" ?!
 
Graeme and Jim are right of course, but...
If you want to send your gaffer ahead and prelight, or you are scouting, a meter can be very useful.
Remember to use 160 ISO IF YOU ARE IN REC 709 OR RAW. Use 320 is you are in Redspace.
Grey scales etc. line up perfectly for me using this methodology.
However, I find the False Color tool to be an absolute perfect tool for my brain.
Cheers,
Harry
 
False colour is an absolute god-send [especially now it works in RAW mode...thanks, Red!!], particularly if you need to work fast...but you can't beat a good old-fashioned light meter if you're trying to maintain consistent, measurable exposure levels shot-to-shot and especially if you're trying to light to consistent contrast ratio plans etc...
 
Thanks for all the help. False color and the histogram is the best tool for exposure and the red I agree. The meter is more for contrast ratio's and pre lighting scenarios.

Is 160 ISO on the meter being done in REC 709 or RAW to reach the 320 of the sensor?
 
Anthony DeRose said:
Thanks for all the help. False color and the histogram is the best tool for exposure and the red I agree. The meter is more for contrast ratio's and pre lighting scenarios.

Is 160 ISO on the meter being done in REC 709 or RAW to reach the 320 of the sensor?
Click to expand...

Too broad a question/solution.

Why not set your exposure on the RED ONE with False Color at the ISO and color space you want. Then meter that scene with the same ISO and see how far off you are in T-stops. Do that several times under different conditions and you will get a feel for the relationship between a light meter and camera tools.

Jim
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top