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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Letus Gimbal

Hi Nikhil,

I guess I don't understand how you can't use the V-mount battery. I thought the V-mount battery has D-tap output, yes? In that case, you just use the D-tap to Lemo cable.
 
Terry,

What I can do is to put a regulator board in the new double box and wire one (or 2) of the power output Lemo with the voltage desire. It's still Lemo and not USB.
 
Terry VerHaar said:
GT - I am no electrical genius so pardon the question... but, what voltage are the outputs of the power box on the Helix. Or, more specifically, if I try to run my wireless FF and/or wireless monitor system from the power box - 5v, I think - do I risk damaging them? Do I need some sort of voltage reduction device?

Thanks.
Click to expand...
Terry, the auxiliary Lemo ports on the Helix are a direct un-regulated pass-through from the Juice Box, i.e. 14.8v. So you do have to reduce the voltage for accessories that use 5v. I'm using a Paralinx Arrow + transmitter. I'm powering it with their Paralinx 2-pin Lemo to 5v USB Transformer Cable. VERY IMPORTANT: if you use this Paralinx Transformer Cable, you MUST REVERSE the leads on the Lemo connector because it is wired Arri Standard (pin 2 hot) whereas the Helix is wired US Standard (pin 1 hot). If you don't reverse the polarity your transmitter will fry. The alternative is to use a USB battery (more weight) or some combination of Lemo to D-Tap to USB. I power my Redrock microRemote receiver directly from the Helix, 2-pin Lemo to 2-pin Lemo straight across because they are directly compatible.
 
GT Le said:
Hi Nikhil,

I guess I don't understand how you can't use the V-mount battery. I thought the V-mount battery has D-tap output, yes? In that case, you just use the D-tap to Lemo cable.
Click to expand...

I think he is hoping to attach the v-mount to the Helix directly; eliminating any tether or belt unit. Personally, I think a dual REDvolt/REDvolt XL plate would be cool. But, a v-mount would be interesting as well, and an Anton Bauer. Heavier, yes, but much more power.
 
Paul Kalbach said:
Terry, the auxiliary Lemo ports on the Helix are a direct un-regulated pass-through from the Juice Box, i.e. 14.8v. So you do have to reduce the voltage for accessories that use 5v. I'm using a Paralinx Arrow + transmitter. I'm powering it with their Paralinx 2-pin Lemo to 5v USB Transformer Cable. VERY IMPORTANT: if you use this Paralinx Transformer Cable, you MUST REVERSE the leads on the Lemo connector because it is wired Arri Standard (pin 2 hot) whereas the Helix is wired US Standard (pin 1 hot). If you don't reverse the polarity your transmitter will fry. The alternative is to use a USB battery (more weight) or some combination of Lemo to D-Tap to USB. I power my Redrock microRemote receiver directly from the Helix, 2-pin Lemo to 2-pin Lemo straight across because they are directly compatible.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Paul. Right now I am sporting the additional battery on the camera. Haven't done anything risky yet! lol

GT - the whole re-wiring thing sounds too complex. I am thinking that a custom Letus cable like Paul describes - Lemo to USB with a voltage regulator on it - would be a better answer. In the end, however, I am wondering if powering other accessories with their own power is better as they won't then drain the JuiceBox as quickly.
 
Paul,

Are you powering the Helix with JuiceBoxes?
 
scott devitte said:
I am thinking about using this with the hotlink for the Dragon when on the Helix. The 2 version of this has usb out also.

http://offhollywoodny.com/store/hottap/hottap-2/
Click to expand...


Look at the Media Blackout version of the Dtap splitter: http://mediablackout.net/product/lemo-to-p-tap-multi-breakout-cable/
Or Letus' own version: http://www.letus35.com/lemo-to-d-tap-splitter/

Both of them considerably lighter and cheaper than the Hotlink. I'm using the MB version on the Helix and it's built well and working flawlessly.

You could argue that the Hotlink is built tougher, but because the MB splitter is so light it doesn't really have enough mass to break itself when dropped. The only way it would break is by taking a violent direct hit. And if your gimbal mounted Dtap splitter is taking a big enough hit to break it, you've got bigger things to worry about!
 
Switronix has the option of 2-pin regulated power + P-taps. I imagine the p-taps are all going to be 12v unreg?
 
Terry VerHaar said:
I think he is hoping to attach the v-mount to the Helix directly; eliminating any tether or belt unit. Personally, I think a dual REDvolt/REDvolt XL plate would be cool. But, a v-mount would be interesting as well, and an Anton Bauer. Heavier, yes, but much more power.
Click to expand...

Yes, exactly. Much more power for a much longer time which for us indie filmmakers is a huge asset. Basically, have an option of vmount that replaces the juice batteries for those who are not as concerned about weight. Any chance of making this happen, GT?
 
Nikhil Kamkolkar said:
Yes, exactly. Much more power for a much longer time which for us indie filmmakers is a huge asset. Basically, have an option of vmount that replaces the juice batteries for those who are not as concerned about weight. Any chance of making this happen, GT?
Click to expand...

+1
And please for Anton Bauer/Gold mount as well.
 
Juan Melara said:
Look at the Media Blackout version of the Dtap splitter: http://mediablackout.net/product/lemo-to-p-tap-multi-breakout-cable/
Or Letus' own version: http://www.letus35.com/lemo-to-d-tap-splitter/

Both of them considerably lighter and cheaper than the Hotlink. I'm using the MB version on the Helix and it's built well and working flawlessly.

You could argue that the Hotlink is built tougher, but because the MB splitter is so light it doesn't really have enough mass to break itself when dropped. The only way it would break is by taking a violent direct hit. And if your gimbal mounted Dtap splitter is taking a big enough hit to break it, you've got bigger things to worry about!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the shout-out, Juan. The splitter that I make is made from genuine Anton/Bauer and Lemo parts. The Letus version is using generic parts but sells for the same price, and the Hottap is more than double the price (and I'm betting it's pretty heavy, too).

My cable also uses cable that is made to be extremely flexible and light, and it can be ordered in lengths from 6" to 24".

I can also design custom power distro boxes with lemo, P-Tap, and USB out; just send me an email: alan@mediablackout.net
 
Nikhil Kamkolkar said:
Yes, exactly. Much more power for a much longer time which for us indie filmmakers is a huge asset. Basically, have an option of vmount that replaces the juice batteries for those who are not as concerned about weight. Any chance of making this happen, GT?
Click to expand...

AB Gold or V-mount is cool - but not if it replaces the JB. I like the light weight of the current JB batteries. I bought 4 of them and am going to get a couple more. Switching batteries does not interfere with my workflow.
 
Nikhil Kamkolkar said:
...that replaces the juice batteries for those who are not as concerned about weight.
Click to expand...

with all the exoskeletons, the weight on a gimbal seems to be a huge concern.

It's very simple.

2-Pin Lemo to power the Gimbal is available now(I imagine this is for someone with a StediCam, who wants to power the Gimbal and camera from their Sled)

JuiceBoxes seem like the best bet, but you have to invest($100/Cage, $150/Battery each, $60/Charger) 5xBatteries, 2xChargers + Cage is $970... and you can't use them on any the camera if it's not on a gimbal.

Cheap man's option, would be some-type of belt battery to power the gimbal and camera. Still use your V-Mount or AB's, just need a 2-pin lemo lead. And hopefully one that's long enough to stretch, but you'll be tethered to the camera, which if you have that incredibly bulky exoskeleton, it might be the best option to attach to that...

Maybe it's easy to adapt the cage to hold traditional batteries?
 
"JuiceBoxes seem like the best bet, but you have to invest($100/Cage, $150/Battery each, $60/Charger) 5xBatteries, 2xChargers + Cage is $970... and you can't use them on any the camera if it's not on a gimbal."

Of course you can use them anywhere, they have velcro on the back and anywhere you can mount velcro you can mount the battery. Look at the price you put up, where else can you get that much stuff from a reputable company?
 
JuiceBoxes seem like the best bet, but you have to invest($100/Cage, $150/Battery each, $60/Charger) 5xBatteries, 2xChargers + Cage is $970...
Click to expand...
Enrique Blein said:
...I'd pull the trigger if I could avoid spending $970 more on power, as it is, it's well over $5.5K
Click to expand...

Guess if you plan on shooting non-stop...all day...with the Helix you would need 5 batteries and 2 chargers. But most I think just plan on
use for specific limited shots during the day and for that use going non-tethered and light weight is desireable.
 
Enrique Blein said:
I'd pull the trigger if I could avoid spending $970 more on power, as it is, it's well over $5.5K
Click to expand...

This. Its the only thing holding me back right now from pulling the trigger. Also, I didn't mean 'replace the juiceboxes' - I meant provide v-mount / AB mount as options for those who don't want to invest in another battery solution. The juiceboxes make perfect sense for the high-end operators who want to conserve on every last ounce of weight, and I don't see myself in that category.
 
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