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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Letus Gimbal

hienle said:
I think the discussion about the battery would be over the moment you use the 4th axis for the first time, because you wouldn't want to go back to the 3 axis handheld as it just kills your arms. For the 4th axis, you just mount it on the cross bar. But it's only my opinion, only you know what you need, that's why we are listening.
Click to expand...
I see myself as going back and forth between 4th axis and 3rd axis configurations depending on the shot, so I would just leave it in the snap-in tray you propose even if I'm in 4-axis mode. And of course if my arms get tired, I can always plug in a battery belt without any modification to the rig...
 
Paul Kalbach said:
I see myself as going back and forth between 4th axis and 3rd axis configurations depending on the shot, so I would just leave it in the snap-in tray you propose even if I'm in 4-axis mode. And of course if my arms get tired, I can always plug in a battery belt without any modification to the rig...
Click to expand...

True
 
Don you need a lot of "Letus pivot" to compensate the lens tork? The Letus pivot should be done on the baseplate and not on the camera screw level. Easely adjustable for fine tune on every lens change. Good work!

Pay
 
Patrick Tresch said:
Don you need a lot of "Letus pivot" to compensate the lens tork? The Letus pivot should be done on the baseplate and not on the camera screw level. Easely adjustable for fine tune on every lens change. Good work!

Pay
Click to expand...

I am just showing off the concept to help the community. Yes, you are right, we are planning to somehow integrate it in our future design.

Actually, for current design, you can use 2 1/4-20 set screws to make the lever, and fine-tune it to the lens
 
Now that we are getting into the nitty-gritty of the power situation, I have a couple questions in the hope that I can understand more clearly what the set-ups and options will be...

1) In the NAB videos, when Aaron powers the unit with the battery belt for demo, it would seem he is only powering the stabilizer and NOT the Scarlet. Correct?
2) If that is correct, then how will it work to use the lemo pass through connector to power both? Is the power-in port powering the stabilizer and the power-out port on the slip ring then splitting off power for the camera?
3) Now, if #1 and #2 are correct, what kind of short cable will I need to connect the slip ring to the Scarlet/Epic? Can that be included in the kit?
4) On another front, how does this all change with the substitution of the additional power port (5-pin?) in place of the HD-SDI port. One of the decisions I feel I need to make is whether I want what the added power port will give me (which is...??) or whether to keep the HD-SDI.

Thanks for any clarification on these point!
 
hienle said:
I think the discussion about the battery would be over the moment you use the 4th axis for the first time, because you wouldn't want to go back to the 3 axis handheld as it just kills your arms. For the 4th axis, you just mount it on the cross bar. But it's only my opinion, only you know what you need, that's why we are listening.
Click to expand...

Hien, I've been looking at the "4th Axis" renderings. I love the cross piece as I can mount monitor, wireless, kindle and a cup holder. It'll be great for hand offs and low angle. But I'm not sure where the "4th Axis" is. I still just see a roll, pan and tilt. Am I missing something?

Also, as Paul said, I can see people wanting to use the stripped down 3 axis version. Can you make renderings with a viable power solution that doesn't involve belts or velcro? Sorry to be bustin onions on the power issue, but this is one of the most overlooked aspects with other gimbal makers. Maybe two snap on power points one along cross bar, one for 3 Axis. The additional 2.5 lbs (or less) for an on board power solution is why God invented dumbbells and gym memberships.
 
Letus's definition of 4th axis is a bit off. The bracket they sell is really not a 4th axis at all, it is a way to mount the Helix onto a common steadicam type spring arm, and that arm helps reduce the 'Y direction" ( up and down ) bob of a walking operator.
It is not an electronically stabilized 4th axis.

@Terry : Yes, you will need a very short 2 pin lemo to Red power lemo cable. I want to see if I can just use the side handle for the power, as my camera would come off and onto the Helix often, along with the top of camera mounted 5" LCD. The camera package is 12 lbs so it should work fine ?


Ned Wilson said:
Hien, I've been looking at the "4th Axis" renderings. I love the cross piece as I can mount monitor, wireless, kindle and a cup holder. It'll be great for hand offs and low angle. But I'm not sure where the "4th Axis" is. I still just see a roll, pan and tilt. Am I missing something?

Also, as Paul said, I can see people wanting to use the stripped down 3 axis version. Can you make renderings with a viable power solution that doesn't involve belts or velcro? Sorry to be bustin onions on the power issue, but this is one of the most overlooked aspects with other gimbal makers. Maybe two snap on power points one along cross bar, one for 3 Axis. The additional 2.5 lbs (or less) for an on board power solution is why God invented dumbbells and gym memberships.
Click to expand...
 
Ned Wilson said:
Hien, I've been looking at the "4th Axis" renderings. I love the cross piece as I can mount monitor, wireless, kindle and a cup holder. It'll be great for hand offs and low angle. But I'm not sure where the "4th Axis" is. I still just see a roll, pan and tilt. Am I missing something?....
Click to expand...

You need 6 parameters to describe an objects position and orientation: distance in X, Y and Z positions and rotation about X, Y and Z axis.

So the "4th Axis" is simply a way to mount Helix on a steadicam or crane/jib and by doing so you take out the unstabilized up/down Y position that results
from handholding the 3 axis "gimbals". Because your arm's elbow joint has much less stability as compared to the steadicam arm joint or the
totally straight arm of the crane/jib. Technically guess you could think of a locked down tripod as the ultimate 6 axis stabilization..hehe..but it's not moving so
there is no stabilization compensation going on..it is just a totally stable situation..a totally inert object.

Surprised the 4th axis was $900 thought it might be more in $600 range but all metals are very expensive not just gold and silver..that's why we recycle aluminum.
 
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Kevin Welch said:
how much does this thing weigh? looks quite heavy
Click to expand...

Last time it was noted, it was about 5 lbs. for the 3-axis setup

And, although I am not sure about the weight with the 4th axis, that is less relevant as it will usually be used with a steadicam vest or on a jib.

EDIT: Latest info here: http://letushelix.com
 
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Steve Das said:
Surprised the 4th axis was $900 thought it might be more in $600 range but all metals are very expensive not just gold and silver..that's why we recycle aluminum.
Click to expand...
Yeah, $900 does seem rather expensive for the 4th axis (almost 25% additional) compared to the rest of the rig; especially considering it's just a handle with some bearings and no electronics. They did mention that there will be a Reduser discount, but didn't say how much...
 
Paul Kalbach said:
Yeah, $900 does seem rather expensive for the 4th axis (almost 25% additional) compared to the rest of the rig; especially considering it's just a handle with some bearings and no electronics. They did mention that there will be a Reduser discount, but didn't say how much...
Click to expand...

2.5%

I kid, I kid (I hope!)
 
Steve Das said:
Surprised the 4th axis was $900 thought it might be more in $600 range but all metals are very expensive not just gold and silver..that's why we recycle aluminum.
Click to expand...

Paul Kalbach said:
Yeah, $900 does seem rather expensive for the 4th axis (almost 25% additional) compared to the rest of the rig; especially considering it's just a handle with some bearings and no electronics. They did mention that there will be a Reduser discount, but didn't say how much...
Click to expand...

I think it's the patent for that aspect of integration that's behind Letus charging relatively more for the 4th (non-motorized) axis, not the materials or independent design complexity of that axis.
 
Terry VerHaar said:
Now that we are getting into the nitty-gritty of the power situation, I have a couple questions in the hope that I can understand more clearly what the set-ups and options will be...

1) In the NAB videos, when Aaron powers the unit with the battery belt for demo, it would seem he is only powering the stabilizer and NOT the Scarlet. Correct?
2) If that is correct, then how will it work to use the lemo pass through connector to power both? Is the power-in port powering the stabilizer and the power-out port on the slip ring then splitting off power for the camera?
3) Now, if #1 and #2 are correct, what kind of short cable will I need to connect the slip ring to the Scarlet/Epic? Can that be included in the kit?
4) On another front, how does this all change with the substitution of the additional power port (5-pin?) in place of the HD-SDI port. One of the decisions I feel I need to make is whether I want what the added power port will give me (which is...??) or whether to keep the HD-SDI.

Thanks for any clarification on these point!
Click to expand...

Bumping my questions in the hope that Aaron or Hien can chime in to address them. :-)
 
Terry VerHaar said:
4) On another front, how does this all change with the substitution of the additional power port (5-pin?) in place of the HD-SDI port. One of the decisions I feel I need to make is whether I want what the added power port will give me (which is...??) or whether to keep the HD-SDI ...
Click to expand...

Aaron Pinto said:
Thanks for the kind words! Here are some answers for you:

You can use a wireless follow focus. Just balance with the rest of the camera. Depending on the unit, you could power it from the raw power pass through or an optional 5v power pass through (that takes the place of the HSDI).
Click to expand...


Believe if you plan on going wireless all the time...you could forego the WIRED HD-SDI ...so you could use the 5V option to power your wireless transmitter.

However...Aaron follow focus needs 12V power out on the camera stage but I believe it is already included from the list at the bottom of http://letushelix.com/

*Top slip-ring passthrough ports: HD-SDI in, 8-18v Power out (optional HD-SDI replaced with 5v power out)
Click to expand...
 
Steve Das said:
Believe if you plan on going wireless all the time...you could forego the WIRED HD-SDI ...so you could use the 5V option to power your wireless transmitter.

However...Aaron follow focus needs 12V power out on the camera stage but I believe it is already included from the list at the bottom of http://letushelix.com/
Click to expand...

I can go wireless monitoring but not sure I want to do that all of the time. Still trying to understand the difference between the power slots and how you power both camera and stabilizer motors (plus anything else you'd want, like FF).

Hoping these guys will get very basic in explaining it to me. :-)
 
Terry VerHaar said:
I can go wireless monitoring but not sure I want to do that all of the time. Still trying to understand the difference between the power slots and how you power both camera and stabilizer motors (plus anything else you'd want, like FF).

Hoping these guys will get very basic in explaining it to me. :-)
Click to expand...
It would be a shame to lose the HD-SDI port by replacing it with a 5 volt power port. Seems to me if you split the output of the power pass-through, 5 volts can easily be extracted from one of the legs. Here's some quick and dirty building blocks: http://www.viewfactor.net/products/power/ptap-usb.html
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/204182-REG/Anton_Bauer_POWERTAP_MULTI_PowerTap_Multi.html
 
I am going to reiterate my question on the most basic level... then maybe we can work our way up. :smiley:

When I bring a power source into the back power port on the Helix, will it power BOTH the gimbal motors (directly) AND allow for tapping the port on the slip ring (with the appropriate lemo power cable) to supply power my Scarlet/Epic?
 
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