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LensBaby on the RED

Jeff Barklage

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Having shot several projects with a LensBaby on my RED, and having answered a few questions about the process, I decided to post a blog with RedAlert! frame grabs of a couple of projects [music videos & commercials] along with an explanation of the use of the Lensbaby as well as some photos of it on the camera.
Check it out if you are interested: www.barklage.com
 
Does anyone know if the Lensbaby 3GPL covers 5K image circle?
 
I can't confirm, but the image circle on the 3GPL looks very large. After all, the 3G covers full frame and the only thing that has changed for the PL mount version is the mount itself.

I'm really hoping they release their new Composer model with a PL mount. Using the 3GPL is a real pain in the ass a lot of the time. Although, I've taken some really nice images using it on the RED.
 
Thanks, then I guess it should cover 5K without any problems then.

About the composer, I asked them and got the following answer;

"Thank you for your interest in Lensbaby. We wil have a PL mount Composer available some time in the future. We are looking at least six months from now. I will keep you posted. Thanks and have a great day"
 
I just have to get myself one of those.

Is there an optical difference between the different Lens Baby incarnations? (Muse, Composer, Control Freak)

I like the idea behind the Composer but am wondering if it is possible to do focus plane shifts while recording, or will it give a somewhat jerky movement?

Anyone knows of a laser cutter company that would accept a vector graphic and then make customized iris rings? How would you calculate the f-stop on those - must be some formula based on the area...
 
Abel sells the LensBabies in a nice kit with the iris rings, mounts and wide angle attachments.
 
I just haveHow would you calculate the f-stop on those - must be some formula based on the area...

7d4dcd717d398058e7634f252a6ad070.png

where f is the focal length, and D is the diameter of the entrance pupil. By convention, "f/#" is treated as a single symbol, and specific values of f/# are written by replacing the number sign with the value. For example, if the focal length is 16 times the pupil diameter, the f-number is f/16, or N = 16.
Basically, just divide the focal length by the diameter of the aperture. And you have your f-stop #.
That's the beauty of "F-stop". F= Factorable.
T-stop is a recorded number. T=Transmission
 
7d4dcd717d398058e7634f252a6ad070.png

where f is the focal length, and D is the diameter of the entrance pupil. By convention, "f/#" is treated as a single symbol, and specific values of f/# are written by replacing the number sign with the value. For example, if the focal length is 16 times the pupil diameter, the f-number is f/16, or N = 16.
Basically, just divide the focal length by the diameter of the aperture. And you have your f-stop #.
That's the beauty of "F-stop". F= Factorable.
T-stop is a recorded number. T=Transmission

I think he means for a custom aperture shapes. With a lensbaby you can make your own aperture in any shape you like and just drop it in.

And in answer to Martin's earlier questions, yes there are variations in optical performance. Go check out the flickr group and you'll see. And yes, you can give it a twist whilst recording, but I wouldn't recommend doing that.
 
I have the Lensbaby 3G (PL) and it's great on the RED, but takes some practice to get the hang of how to dial it in. I'm hoping that they will offer the Composer model in PL mount soon as it looks to have some better advantages for one-hand control...

Kinda funny, but the first thing I ever shot on my personal RED One camera was my kids in the back yard with the LensBaby. Let's just say that handholding that combo with nothing but the RED top handle was a real PITA.
 
I think he means for a custom aperture shapes. With a lensbaby you can make your own aperture in any shape you like and just drop it in.

I'm well aware of how lens babies work...

"How would you calculate the f-stop on those - must be some formula based on the area..."
Maybe I misunderstood the question.. What was he asking then?
 
How would you calculate the f-stop on those - must be some formula based on the area...

Although I'm sure someone as smart as Mr. Duclos could figure it out, you really don't need to know the f-stop of whatever iris you create since the Red has so many useful through-the-lens exposure tools.

...and bingo, that's how you figure it out. Aim your Red with your custom iris at a grey card or plain surface, find the ASA it wants you to shoot at, then put on a normal lens and find the matching stop.
 
Thanks Matthew et al. — I should have looked it up myself in my AC bible, but...

Anyway, just ordered my Composer, am looking very much forward to playing with it. During my research via the Flickr group (thanks for that tip!) I found this blog entry which talks about how to get a free macro converter lens from Lensbaby. And it works for world-wide purchases. Link
 
7d4dcd717d398058e7634f252a6ad070.png

where f is the focal length, and D is the diameter of the entrance pupil. By convention, "f/#" is treated as a single symbol, and specific values of f/# are written by replacing the number sign with the value. For example, if the focal length is 16 times the pupil diameter, the f-number is f/16, or N = 16.
Basically, just divide the focal length by the diameter of the aperture. And you have your f-stop #.
That's the beauty of "F-stop". F= Factorable.
T-stop is a recorded number. T=Transmission

Thanks for this Matthew. I saved it on my computer for later reference.
 
Just to double-check my thinking (there has been a certain lack of sleep of late...)

If a customized shape with the area x sq.mm gives me f2, by which factor would I have to multiply x to achieve f4?

With the inverse square law, I would guess times 1/2 (1/2 being 1/the square root of 4; and 1/4 being the light factor from f2 to f4).

(By the way, at this point it is a purely academical question for me)
 
Thanks for posting this! I was at the Cinegear Expo last week and talked with the people from Lensbaby about using it for a few shots in my feature project and they didn't really know how it would look. Thanks again. It really does look cool. I'm interested in using it to simulate the lens distortion of an old fashioned three sleeve pirate telescope.
 
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