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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

*** Led-z Lights 35% Off ***

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Ketch Rossi

Ketch Rossi

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Location
Sardinia, Italy
Website
www.afroditefilms.com
*** OFFER HAS EXPIRED ***


Hey guys,

this is a deal for all products sold by LED-Z.

For any info on this products please visit their site as listed below as well as for purchasing or Q? about their products please contact the contact person as listed below.


*** This deal has no time limit as to allow all REDUSERs to take advantage of this offering as they get their REDs***


***PLEASE VISIT***

WWW.LED-Z.COM

***PLEASE CONTACT***

MALCOLM MILLS
Executive, Vice President

Ciao


K E T C H ~ R O S S I
 
Last edited by a moderator:
***led-z***

***led-z***

Dear All,

Thank you Ketch.

I am pleased to offer this special deal for ALL REDUSERS and I am sure the LEDZ line and RED camera system can work very well together.

Please feel free to contact me regarding the LEDZ line.

Best wishes,

MALCOLM MILLS
Executive Vice President
LEDZ, LLC

malcolm@led-z.com
 
As with the other discount group buys, this deal is not endorsed by this site or by RED. It's getting the sticky treatment because unlike the other group buys up to this point, it will be a deal available to the REDUSER community for an extended period of time.
 
Being really bad at math and amp ratings, could you tell me what would it take to power the brute quad and would that be as strong as a joker 800 hmi?

thanks
 
Each Brute9 has an output similar to that of a 200HMI so a quad is four time that been an 800HMI.
The total wattage the each fixture consumes is 27w (110/240) so a quad would consume 108w, very impressive.

Now do understand that at this time even so the Brute9 is the strongest LED out there, it yet does not have the punch power of a large HMI, you can not just simply stack up on LED-z to match the same value as with an HMI, it will not happen.

However this fixture were used even as a bounce source during the LART shoot and every one love them.

Again different lights for different purposes.


Ciao,

KETCH ROSSI
 
Hey guys,

just confirmed with Malcolm that the BRUTE9 are fully compatible with ANTON BAUERS 14.4v batteries and of course the RED bricks as well.

This should make excellent light sources for car shot and any were else when electricity or generators are not available or allowed.

Ciao,

KETCH ROSSI
www.KETCHFRAME.com
 
Your comparison of output similar to 200w HMI is just false.

Your comparison of output similar to 200w HMI is just false.

KETCH ROSSI said:
Each Brute9 has an output similar to that of a 200HMI so a quad is four time that been an 800HMI.
The total wattage the each fixture consumes is 27w (110/240) so a quad would consume 108w, very impressive.

Now do understand that at this time even so the Brute9 is the strongest LED out there, it yet does not have the punch power of a large HMI, you can not just simply stack up on LED-z to match the same value as with an HMI, it will not happen.

However this fixture were used even as a bounce source during the LART shoot and every one love them.

Again different lights for different purposes.

Personally I'm stacking a large amount of this fixtures, both the Mini Pars and the BRUTE9 for my company, do to low light consumption, fantastic durability, portability and cool operation.


Ciao,

KETCH ROSSI
Click to expand...

Ketch:

I understand your enthusiasm and don't mean to be insulting, but your comparison is just not in line with the physics of current LED technology.

Typical high output LEDs have been in the 25 to 50 lumens per watt range in the past few years and the latest high output LEDs are running about 60 to 75 lumens per watt (compared to the 85 to 105 lumens per watt that has been typical of HMIs for many years - recent model HMIs may be higher.) Recent announcements have suggested that 100 lumens per watt LEDs will be available in the next year or so - but even that is only slightly more than most HMI.

Check out the specs for LUXEON K2 from Philips - one of the highest output available http://www.lumileds.com/pdfs/DS60.pdf

It would be nice if Malcolm could give us the lumen per watt specification of his LEDs - his photometrics chart only gives footcandles concentrated to a specific area which does not give the actual light output.
 
You are not insulting at all, and remember that this it is not my product, I'm just trying to provide this community with good deals on products.

However the link you posted is about LEDs that are not even close to the LED-z, simple and foremost important factor is that it is not all and only about the lumens, or as this industry that measures lights output by footcandles, at list here in the USA, as Lumens are the exact equivalent in metric form as in a Lumen is the light source per square foot vs. footcandle is on candle light at one foot, a bit confusing but basically they are the same thing, one measures in foots and the other in metric form.


Again most importantly those lights on your link do not provide correct color temperature.

Daylight it is measured to be 5600k and the leds on your link range from 4500 to 6500 to 10000, so they are out of range and become unpratical to use as they would need a combination of gels to bring the kelvin temperature to the correct daylight standard.


Again do please keep in mind that I'm proposing this deals as they offer a good discount and are great products, but at the end each user must choose if the product is right for his or hers use.

Typically I measure the lumens out put for all my projectors and other similar electronics but I always have measured the lighting by footcandles, including when at Arri's and Cinemills, during some test with the HMI's and Tungsten, now, if I was in my home town of Italy, then I could have probably measured all my light sources by Lumens.

At last I do not argue that they very well are different type of measurement for which we can go by, but the footcandles it is a typicall way of measuring how much light a particular globe produces at the object to be illuminated, then you have candlepower which it is how much light the globe it self produces, but again not what it illuminates.

Hope I aven't confuse you more then I helped.

Ciao,

KETCH ROSSI
www.KETCHFRAME.com
 
The real question is how do they look when in use - whats the end product - and then price per punch - are they worth it?
 
Hoffman,

that is a question that each individual user must answer for himself.

For me they are absolutely warted, extremely low power consumption, 14,4v battery usable, life time globe life (those it make sense?) cool operated and the list goes on.

This lights were use during LART and every one there love them, they were also used as bounce lights, this little suckers are strong lights.


Ciao,

KETCH ROSSI
www.KETCHFRAME.com
 
that is a question that each individual user must answer for himself.
Click to expand...

I guess that is what I was thinking - one can discuss lumens and footcandles all day long - which is actually good because it gives us a point of reference - somewhere to start the conversation - but it all comes down to how one likes the product - and what it costs to get there - and personal choice. I'm very interested in this technology for several reasons and will probably try them.

The set pictures are nice - It would be great to see the end result shots.

Thanks
 
Physics

Physics

KETCH ROSSI said:
You are not insulting at all, and remember that this it is not my product, I'm just trying to provide this community with good deals on products.

However the link you posted is about LEDs that are not even close to the LED-z, simple and foremost important factor is that it is not all and only about the lumens, or as this industry that measures lights output by footcandles, at list here in the USA, as Lumens are the exact equivalent in metric form as in a Lumen is the light source per square foot vs. footcandle is on candle light at one foot, a bit confusing but basically they are the same thing, one measures in foots and the other in metric form.

Hope I aven't confuse you more then I helped.

Ciao,

KETCH ROSSI
www.KETCHFRAME.com
Click to expand...

Ketch: I am just trying to provide a physical comparison of light output - which is important because you compared it to a known source - 200 watt HMIs. Lumens is a measure of actual light output in total - and therefore the most important for comparing the light output between two lights and two technologies.

The links were just to give an example of some of the highest output LEDs available from a major manufacturer - Philips - that has to provide pretty scientifically objective specs given their government, scientific, military, etc. markets that require rigorous data and can't get away with incomplete or inaccurate data.

But I get concerned as a manufacturer of underwater lights that went through this with HID vs. Halogen and now LED - that people ignore the physics and create hype.

How you focus it will determine the light level for exposure, given a specific amount of lumens.

To create an analogy using water - The bottom line is a 200 watt HMI is delivering an 8 gallon pail of 8 gallons of water, compared to those 27 watt LEDs delivering somewhere between a half and one gallon of water. So if you want to direct the 1 gallon of water (the 27 watt LED) on to a girl's t-shirt it will have a nice effect and you don't need the larger pail - but if you want to spray 10 girls to get the same effect you need that bigger pail (the 200 watt HMI or 8 of the led units).

You seem to have a lot of nice pictures of pretty girls, so if you want to test my example I would be happy to help!! LOL. :biggrin:
 
Totally understand and fill that manufacturers do many times compare their new products to known ones in order to advertise theirs in a very competitive market.

I do also understand the example you made, when light sources are measured by their manufacturers, they tend to list comparison out puts, the above statement of the Brute9 been as equal to the HMI 200, was not my testing but that of LED-Z.

Obviously to be noted is the main factor that even if the out put stands correct in the comparison of Fottcandle/Power ( lumens at source) it likely varies when measured as Footcandles/Lumens.

I have found my self that the LED-Z must be bounced or gel them in order to get a uniform source of lighting as they have many led's and then to create multiple shadow effect.

Also when comparison are made directly with HMI fixtures the LED-Z Brute9 does not have the same punch.

Ciao,

KETCH ROSSI
www.KETCHFRAME.com
 
KETCH ROSSI said:
All in all, again, I love this fixtures for their many qualities and they have found a home in my gear for both, Cinematography and Photography.
Click to expand...

Well, that is the most important point as far as purchasing and using them - I do think they should be very useful for a lot of things.


KETCH ROSSI said:
More then just testing your example ( which I completely understand, therefor no testings are needed) I could put you to work when time comes, Costa Smeralda Italy, Cancun, Dubai, Asia, take your pick.

www.KETCHFRAME.com
Click to expand...

I might take them all, with or without RED #206 (which i got 2 weeks ago but sent to Erik at Birger to help with the mount changes), although Cancun is the closest.

BTW I should have one of the first Birger mounts very soon. I bought a 40D, the 70-200 IS L lens and also bought the 17-55 F2.8 IS EF-S instead of the 24-70 for two reasons - one it seems like the IS is pretty useful for low light no flash shots and two the 24-70 ought to be replaced soon - I thought maybe PMA this month but no word yet. Any thoughts on the 17-55?

I also picked up a contax mount zeiss 50mm 1.4 off ebay as a manual backup in case the birger electronics were to fail (bad connector or whatever) and also a zeiss 300 f/4 to play with as well. They seem to work fine on the 40D with an inexpensive adapter.

I found it interesting in reading a review of the 300/4 that the still photographer complained that it was such a long focus throw - which is exactly what the cine guys want! When I got it I found that the focus throw from nearest to infinity is about 315 degrees. (it is about 210 on the 50mm)
 
Cool.

The 40D is a great little one, I have the 1D III and the 1Ds III in order (will sale the 1D III), I only use L series glass so I don't know much about the 17-55, but the 24-70 is one of the best organic imaging producing lens, giving a very 3Dhs like image and fill.

Several replacements are over do, including the 24-70L, 70-200L f/2.8 IS, 35L, 135L and the 200L already announced at f/2.0.

I also have a full Birger mount already paid in full and awaiting delivery.

Lets keep in touch.

Ciao,

KETCH ROSSI
www.KETCHFRAME.com
 
Hi, I'm highly interested in the Led-z lights (brute9 and the minipar). I saw mention that you can connect them up to the red batteries. What is required (parts & $$$) to do this (as this would be my main application)? And does it work with both brute9's and the mini-pars? Thanks!
 
no, the minipars are 12v only.

Please contact Malcolm to see if the new cables attach directly to the battery.

They should also have DMX ready.

For now I have been plugging them in to my honda eui200 when in location but as soon as I get my REDs I will also want to use them with batteries.

Ciao,

KETCH ROSSI
 
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