Kitting up an Epic - M (For Epic M owners to reply...)

[Hans von Sonntag]

Hans, the short answer is that there is no such configuration available yet. There will be plenty of options in the coming months, including something I'm working on. Once the additional Epic modules are available it will be much easier. For now, you still have to rig a brick to the camera, and breakout options are limited.

Thanks Adam,

So we postpone my request for pictures and I'll wait patiently until new options are available.

Hans (sometimes it's not bad if you are not the first in the queue...)

 

[Clint Lealos]

I wish I had a picture of the Epic M that was at the May Resolution screening at Red Studios. It was exactly what you are talking about... but of course using a Red Gunner that isn't out yet.

 

[Paris Remillard]

I'd like to see someone make a module adapter that was a shoulder pad/cut-out that mimicked the aaton ergonomics. Just a small, preferably padded, gap between the brain and modules, eliminating the need for a full handheld rig like the clutch or mantis. You could then just operate from the mattebox or with a small aaton-like handgrip for a tiny handheld rig. It could possibly place the modules lower or at an angle like an aaton film magazine to balance the center of gravity. Maybe adjustable angle and height would be ideal, like an arricam magazine for angle at least, to allow for different module lengths, also keeping it tripod/baseplate ready. As in, the modules wouldn't be so low as to keep you from just throwing it onto a tripod. If you just have a battery module or IO module, it could be steeply angled and lowered. If you had a few modules, the height and slope could be less. If I get time I'll make a quick drawing in case my description sucks. To simplify all this rambling, just make the modules sit like an aaton film magazine, with a small space for ones shoulder in between.

 

[Eirik Tyrihjel]

I have gotten Brooks´ top and bottom plates - total 715$
You even get your logo engraved for free - awesome! And LOTS of mounting holes/options
http://www.viewfactor.net/index.php/products/epic-acc.html

I am getting the ET 19mm bridgeplate $900
http://www.elementtechnica.com/products/view.php?p=7

And the ET Arri dovetail $435
http://www.elementtechnica.com/products/view.php?p=8

And finally I am getting the new RED sliding top handle, (that fits the DSMC top mount)

http://www.red.com/store/rail-components/product/sliding-top-handlen $175

It goes on top the DSMC top mount, on top of Brooks´ top mount facing forward towards/over the lens for right balance! - that way the LCD screen will fit on the back end of Brooks top mount. I think this will provide me with many options and to be quite versatile.

RED DSMC top mount - 19mm rod compatible $350
http://www.red.com/store/rail-components/product/dsmc-top-mount-rod-compatible

In addition I got myself Avenger 386B Nano Clamp $29
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/572347-REG/Manfrotto_386B_386B_Nano_Clamp.html

With the nano clamp and one of my existing RED arms I should be able to mount the LCD to the 19mm rods for handheld work, to get the camera properly balanced and to still be able to view it, it needs to go aaaaaaaall the way to the end of the rods, out tp the end of the lens +/-

Like with the R1 there are millions of ways to do it, but based on my experience and what is available to me now, and what gear I have and want support for, I think the above will complete my kit and make it very versatile and production friendly.
Now I just need the ET stuff to completet it (I have a set of them, but they are busy on my R1, out working)

Looking forward to start using it fully rigged up.



Fun fact: While I waited for the much needed parts (view factor/Brooks), We HAD to get my Epic up on a crane with the 24-290 optimo! At that time I didn´t have the riser to give support for the 19mm rods, so I took my old RED bottom plate (down from the shelf where it has been lying for a while) and took it to a machine shop (Norsk film/Storyline studios), they modified it to allow me to mount my Epic on it, placing the 19mm rods at the right distance to the lens, so we got our Epic on the crane with the BIG lens, this worked wonderfully!

 

[Adam C Lubkin]

Hey Eirik, how well is that Nano clamp working for you for clamping onto rods?

 

[Eirik Tyrihjel]

Works very well so far, I just got three of them so haven´t used them much in the field yet, but I got them on recommendation from fellow photographers.

The main challenge for me at this point is to find a durable way to get the LCD extended to the front of the lens on the left side for handheld work, it needs to get out really far because I want my rig perfectly balanced on my shoulder for long time operation.

 

[Clint Lealos]

So, I found a picture from the event, but its a not a good one. My friend took it with an iphone, but you get the point. I wish he had a pic of the other side. The monitor was mounted on the handle so it was directly in front of the operator... pretty slick. The only thing I can't remember is how the FF was attached, or if there was one Anyway, this goes from tripod to your shoulder in seconds. They were using AC power, but you could easily mount a Red brick on the back of the gunner.

 

[NormLi]

I've been using nanoclamps for a long time with my LCD. I love the idea but they start to slip and not be able to tighten onto rods enough to hold LCDs after a while. It's mainly because the sticky grip inside the clamp wears off...

Norm

 

[Gunleik Groven]

The exchangeable OLPF alternatives sounds like a must-have to me...

Any idea when that will be released?

G

 

[Erich Roland]

Erich,

Great small setup. Thanks for the pics. Can you elaborate on the equipment you are using to attach the battery to the camera. I see you are using an ET speedy clamp but am not familiar with the piece attached to the camera.

Thanks,
Dan

Dan, the piece I used to get a 15mm rod in that orientation off the back is the "15mm adapter" from Red store (95 bucks).

 

[Raphael Varandas]

What batteries options are you guys using?
Since all my RED batteries are working with my RED One's...
I'm a bit worried.
Thanks

And thanks for this thread GUnleik.

Cheers

 

[Mark Pugh]

Think about getting batteries that are just under 100 watt hours, as they still last longer than a Red brick does on the Red One, but are more lightweight and legal to fly with in quantities.

 

[Cüneyt Kaya]

does ET has a Top Cheesehandle for Epic?
reds sliding topplate is backorderd, which one to get?
dont want to use the oldschool handle

 

[Paul Hazlett]

I've been using nanoclamps for a long time with my LCD. I love the idea but they start to slip and not be able to tighten onto rods enough to hold LCDs after a while. It's mainly because the sticky grip inside the clamp wears off...

Norm

I pulled that plastic sheet off mine pretty soon after I got mine since it was starting to peeling almost from the start and they have worked great for me ever since. I use one for the Red lcd and one for the panny on board