Roberto Lequeux
Well-known member
I got the solution... well, I didn't make the lens, but I can point you in the right direction. 
I really don't understand why people don't talk about it more in fact: the Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 (which was already mentioned!)
At 16mm it covers FF35 which is pretty wide. Isn't that enough? You are talking about getting a 20mm+ so I suppose so.
16mm on a x1 sensor makes it a narrower FOV than the 14mm on the 5D. Bus if it is the 1D you want for "non-suicidal skew" then the Tokina should cover a bit wider than 16mm.... I have no clue but I'd guess you'd get to about half way, right? Maybe not half way since FOV isn't linear so let's guess 15mm and call it safe-ish bet. So now you got a 19.5mm FF35 equivalent on the 1D which is better than you were looking into, it is f/2.8, and I think it costs ~$600! You'd save almost $2,000 over the 14mm Canon, same speed, just don't get a 5D.... the only reason to get a 5D is cheaper low-light than the 1D, by several grand though.
JUST WAIT FOR EPIC!!
Get a $1,700 7D till then, the skew is about the same if not identical to the 1D as far as I understand and remember seeing. Your ISO ceiling is about ISO2500 with lots of light, or ISO1250/1600 underexposed. ISO800 is very clean under almost any circumstance. That is a crap load of sensitivity for superspeed lenses, even f/2.8. Put your money into Canon glass, and use it later with a Red Canon mount!!!!
))
Also worth mentioning is that at 15-16mm the only thing the Tokina lacks a bit is better flare handling. It is a fantastic lens. Super sharp... a killer bargain! Even at 13mm distortion is very low, but you might need a 7D for that. You will find 11mm is very useful and extremely acceptable so long as you are not shooting a grid
and on the 7D you still get an equivalent to 17.6mm FF35! Which is f'ing wide.
Ignoring the abrasive comments that upset you and others, I believe that people are right in trying to point out this out. When you pick a lens you don't just pick it based on FOV.
I believe it might be what you find yourself doing more than not, perhaps because you spend a lot of time shooting cityscapes and astrophotography where you find yourself using infinity or close. One of the other factors is therefore mostly canceled out, dealing with OOF due to thin DoF on close subjects.
But the other all important factor is compression. Which I am certain you are very aware of, and conscious.
Their (somewhat tainted) effort to keep things in perspective is actually a great thing! Especially these days, when we are talking about x1, x1.3, x1.6 sensors for motion, and moreover RED!
Not too far in the future we'll finally have a F35+S35+2/3" sensor!! Add aspect ratios to that and we are all over the place in terms of sensor areas!
We really need to get out of FOV, which really only worked if you only shot S35, or S16, or S8, or 2/3"... smaller sensors didn't let you switch lenses, unless you got an adapter, but then you had to decide how big of a 16:9 area you were going to record on the GG! lol...
I guess if you worked a lot as a DP or in a camera dept you knew all these things. Not my case.
No.
Yes.
And that is how you play with perspective.
I was trying to distill the origin of perspective on my own (sorry if that makes me not worthy) but I must have been too tired or too hungry and ended up blurting out a pair of poorly worded posts. Formal school might have helped. I like this better...
What I was trying to say was that perspective isn't really tied to the focal length. (let me get full circle)
It is a factor of both camera placement (distance to the subject) and the compression of a given focal length, right?
I also wanted to point out that sensor areas don't factor into perspective, they only let you know if you'll record X subject in Y part of the frame or not (or if you need a lens with a bigger imaging circle).
BUT, I also wanted to point out to our scholar friends, that it makes perfect sense that people do consider sensors to factor into perspective, because they do in a practical way. Right? If you have a x1.3 1D you might have money and you might want to buy the 14mm in case you need it for a 5D or Mostro in the future. The 14mm has a specific compression of depth and field (depth and field compression? does that sound right?). The 14mm and the x1.3 sensor put together give you a specific FOV when combined, equivalent to an 18.2mm on a FF35 x1. But I have a 7D for instance, so I'll use the Tokina at 11mm, which has much lower compression...
So I have 11mm "optical compression" (?) onto a smaller x1.6 sensor area, which ends up in the same 16:9 TV as your 14mm compression but in a larger recorded sensor area of x1.3, but it ALSO gets turned into a 16:9...
So... the x1.6 image needs to be expanded more than the x1.3 image to fit the same screen... it is a wash... right? Isn' that what happens with negatives, same for digital, optics to screen size, or optics to print size, projection size, etc... it is all the same.
Is that right?
Hey Jens, how bout them apples? No student loans either. And don't even think to make fun of my language or any mistakes cause I ain't no DP. I just wanted someone to explain this to me but since all of you are so busy flinging poo at each other I had to talk myself through it... hope I got it right.
Now can we get along people? I am asking questions to learn, and not looking for a soap. My wife watches enough bad drama on TV as it is.
Please.
I really don't understand why people don't talk about it more in fact: the Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 (which was already mentioned!)
At 16mm it covers FF35 which is pretty wide. Isn't that enough? You are talking about getting a 20mm+ so I suppose so.
16mm on a x1 sensor makes it a narrower FOV than the 14mm on the 5D. Bus if it is the 1D you want for "non-suicidal skew" then the Tokina should cover a bit wider than 16mm.... I have no clue but I'd guess you'd get to about half way, right? Maybe not half way since FOV isn't linear so let's guess 15mm and call it safe-ish bet. So now you got a 19.5mm FF35 equivalent on the 1D which is better than you were looking into, it is f/2.8, and I think it costs ~$600! You'd save almost $2,000 over the 14mm Canon, same speed, just don't get a 5D.... the only reason to get a 5D is cheaper low-light than the 1D, by several grand though.
JUST WAIT FOR EPIC!!
Also worth mentioning is that at 15-16mm the only thing the Tokina lacks a bit is better flare handling. It is a fantastic lens. Super sharp... a killer bargain! Even at 13mm distortion is very low, but you might need a 7D for that. You will find 11mm is very useful and extremely acceptable so long as you are not shooting a grid
When I see a 24mm lens I think FOV, which is what is important.
It just seems really stupid to say that the lens is always a 24mm when I think the majority of people think FOV.
Ignoring the abrasive comments that upset you and others, I believe that people are right in trying to point out this out. When you pick a lens you don't just pick it based on FOV.
I believe it might be what you find yourself doing more than not, perhaps because you spend a lot of time shooting cityscapes and astrophotography where you find yourself using infinity or close. One of the other factors is therefore mostly canceled out, dealing with OOF due to thin DoF on close subjects.
But the other all important factor is compression. Which I am certain you are very aware of, and conscious.
Their (somewhat tainted) effort to keep things in perspective is actually a great thing! Especially these days, when we are talking about x1, x1.3, x1.6 sensors for motion, and moreover RED!
Not too far in the future we'll finally have a F35+S35+2/3" sensor!! Add aspect ratios to that and we are all over the place in terms of sensor areas!
We really need to get out of FOV, which really only worked if you only shot S35, or S16, or S8, or 2/3"... smaller sensors didn't let you switch lenses, unless you got an adapter, but then you had to decide how big of a 16:9 area you were going to record on the GG! lol...
I guess if you worked a lot as a DP or in a camera dept you knew all these things. Not my case.
I'm confused now...if a wide angle lens has a certain degree of angle of view on a FF sensor and less on a cropped sensor then moving the camera away from the subject to a determined distance will give you the same 'look"?
No.
I doubt it, surely the perspective will be different?
Yes.
And that is how you play with perspective.
I was trying to distill the origin of perspective on my own (sorry if that makes me not worthy) but I must have been too tired or too hungry and ended up blurting out a pair of poorly worded posts. Formal school might have helped. I like this better...
What I was trying to say was that perspective isn't really tied to the focal length. (let me get full circle)
It is a factor of both camera placement (distance to the subject) and the compression of a given focal length, right?
I also wanted to point out that sensor areas don't factor into perspective, they only let you know if you'll record X subject in Y part of the frame or not (or if you need a lens with a bigger imaging circle).
BUT, I also wanted to point out to our scholar friends, that it makes perfect sense that people do consider sensors to factor into perspective, because they do in a practical way. Right? If you have a x1.3 1D you might have money and you might want to buy the 14mm in case you need it for a 5D or Mostro in the future. The 14mm has a specific compression of depth and field (depth and field compression? does that sound right?). The 14mm and the x1.3 sensor put together give you a specific FOV when combined, equivalent to an 18.2mm on a FF35 x1. But I have a 7D for instance, so I'll use the Tokina at 11mm, which has much lower compression...
So I have 11mm "optical compression" (?) onto a smaller x1.6 sensor area, which ends up in the same 16:9 TV as your 14mm compression but in a larger recorded sensor area of x1.3, but it ALSO gets turned into a 16:9...
So... the x1.6 image needs to be expanded more than the x1.3 image to fit the same screen... it is a wash... right? Isn' that what happens with negatives, same for digital, optics to screen size, or optics to print size, projection size, etc... it is all the same.
Is that right?
Hey Jens, how bout them apples? No student loans either. And don't even think to make fun of my language or any mistakes cause I ain't no DP. I just wanted someone to explain this to me but since all of you are so busy flinging poo at each other I had to talk myself through it... hope I got it right.
Now can we get along people? I am asking questions to learn, and not looking for a soap. My wife watches enough bad drama on TV as it is.