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How to get a RED ready for stabilizer systems?

V

Volker Ehlers

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Hi everybody,

We would like to prepare our RED rental park for stabilizer use.

We will offer
- breakout 12V from Lemo 4pin (RED) to Fischer 3pin (ARRI)
to power w-less transmitter sd-video and w-less focus control (1 axis due to 12V)

Has anyone out there the cable connection sorted to power an aja down-converter onboard out of RED lemo 4pin or ARRI Fischer 3pin?

What about RED power? Coming out of the stabilizer? Any tips? Do you run your cams with separate batteries?

What about the stabilizer monitor? Is there many HD versions actually around or are most of them still sd?

Any thoughts/ solutions/ requirements appreciated
Thanks
 
Absolutely no need in my mind for hd monitoring on a steadycam

The question is more how to avoid onboard down-converting? ;) or how to power that christmas tree of stuff on the dump side of the camera...

Steadicam cine 2 has a HD Monitor but i dont have a clue how many operators would actually be out there with such new riggs. And its not just for the local market. I want to have solutions ready for customers shooting abroad (like myself as a DP :))

How do you power your aja?

V
 
breakout 12V from Lemo 4pin (RED) to Fischer 3pin (ARRI)
Click to expand...

Just finished a long day, so I apologize if I am confused, but,

Arri power in is a fisher 2 pin (24 volts) arri batts out are XLR 3 pin (24 volts)

so I'm not sure what your talking about here.

Nick
 
Hi arrinick,

I am referring to ARRI RS Fischer 3pin out for accessories. Am aware of 24v/ 12V issue but have found out to my delight that a wireless receiver works fine with 12V supply. What I am intending to do is have a 3way distribution box for RED that has those 3pin fischer connectors to power:
- down-converter
- w-less transmitter
- 1 axis w-less

Am I on the wrong path?
V
 
jtm said:
I had a cable made which gave me anton bauer power to the aja made for me by reduser Panatech. He hasn't been on the boards for a while nor is he currently responding to emails - hope he's okay.
Click to expand...

Of course, I now remember the boys from courtyard said you had a pac made - fair enough - that makes sense - as long as you have the battery close enough...I haven't worked with stabilizer for some time but remember clearly that film cameras where powered out of the stabilizer rather than having more top weight by adding a extra battery. This set-up should also work for remote heads etc where you might want to power the RED out of big powerblock rather than onboard...

This strange plastic socket on the aja can hopefully be sourced on its own..,
panatech - how are you keeping?
 
More info on flyer?

More info on flyer?

Hi Eric,

Thanks for that info and all the best for Pana-tech from here to a full recovery.

Eric could you spread a bit more light on my questions regarding power
supply for RED when operated on a flyer?

Do you have a cable made and how do you handle monitoring/ down-conversion?
Thanks
 
Hey Volker,

We came up with a very easy solution as we found we were running an AJA downconverter, video sender, wireless FF and a Gecko light on our rig! We ran a 12v supply up the post with an Anton Bauer 2 pin out and a splitter to run all the Aks.

Then we found this pulled the battery dead too quickly and instead hung a battery adaptor off 19mm CF bars from the back of the Red put another battery on and ran the camera and Aks seperately! The arm moaned on a few occasions and we had to strip to lightweight to run fast, but hey, it worked for us! :innocent:

Mike C
 
I'm by no means a steadicam operator but I am glad to use frequently the skills of friends for my stuff.

For a recent shoot he stripped my Red down to nothing apart from lens, rods, FF motor, FF reciever, clamp-on mattebox and Aja downconverter.

He used my redbricks below on the counterbalance (don't now the technical terminus) to add weight and powering the cam. Another battery was added powering the monitor, AJA downkonverter and FF motor/reciever. So no batteries fitted onto the camera.

This setup was neat and worked very well on his Sachtler Artemis system. It was easy and quick so set up and put in balance.

Powering only the cam and nothing else the Redbrick lasted over 4 hours.

Just a short note to steadicam monitors: Obviously the most important "asset" of a monitor for this paticular use is brightness. Using the steadicam in bright sunlight must be possible. All HD-SDI monitors I know are too dark and have a much too reflective display for that purpose. He was using a very bright aircraft monitor that was working really well in bright sunlight. Downside: the image is B/W with a strong yellow tint.


Hans
 
Costelloe Michael said:
Hey Volker,

We came up with a very easy solution as we found we were running an AJA downconverter, video sender, wireless FF and a Gecko light on our rig! We ran a 12v supply up the post with an Anton Bauer 2 pin out and a splitter to run all the Aks.

Then we found this pulled the battery dead too quickly and instead hung a battery adaptor off 19mm CF bars from the back of the Red put another battery on and ran the camera and Aks seperately! The arm moaned on a few occasions and we had to strip to lightweight to run fast, but hey, it worked for us! :innocent:

Mike C
Click to expand...

Thanks Mike,
This is the kind of feedback I was looking for - its seems a good idea to have a long 2pin powertap cable for Anton Bauer/ Redbricks ready - whether you run it from the bottom of the system or from an extra onboard battery.

Will try and get those plastic sockets/plugs from AJA to make some variations and provide power to a splitter box.

Another question Mike: what kind of FF did you power with 12V?

Cheers
 
What other w-less ff accepts 12V

What other w-less ff accepts 12V

Hi Hans, Hi Mike,

Sorry - just pirated my business partners Galahad account...
Thanks for the info so far...

Can we get a list of all different wireless FF systems that accept a 12V supply?
I never tried more than 1-axis on an old W-LCS from ARRI - which should be 24V but worked fine anyhow.
Thanks
 
Volker Ehlers said:
Hi Eric,
... could you spread a bit more light on my questions regarding power
supply for RED when operated on a flyer?

Do you have a cable made and how do you handle monitoring/ down-conversion?
Thanks
Click to expand...

Sorry Volker

I have yet to take delivery of my Red, so can't help with these details yet!

I'm doubting that I will be able to fly a Red on my Flyer too - The Flyer's load limit is 6.8kg (15lbs), although that's with two Flyer batteries attached.

However, will probably give it a go anyway ('cos I like trying the impossible) with a stripped down minimal setup, Birger mount and Canon EF lenses!

I would probably also try mounting the Red LCD in place of the Flyer's LCD monitor (like the Red edition Action Cam). And use one Red brick in place of one of the Flyer batteries - the second battery can be replaced with the weight of a downconverter and wireless transmitter. I might have to upgrade the power wiring in the Flyer too to cope with higher currents (and also provide more than the Flyer's one power output), but haven't looked into the current ratings yet.

I would plan on using Birger's Bluetooth wireless FF control as Viewfactor's solution would add too much weight!

Good luck, and post your own solution when you find one!

Cheers
Eric
 
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