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Home made Scarlet/Epic case question

Stephen Franchek

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Hoping that some of you redusers are part time chemists and/or building contractors, cause those fields of expertise will come in handy when answering my question =)

Right now I'm not happy with any Scarlet carrying case I've found online. They're overpriced and from what I can tell it looks like you have to take the screen off to fit the camera. Forget THAT!

I came up with a case design that will keep the camera safe with all accessories attached. The empty case ($100) is arriving tomorrow. My plan is to use filler foam to create part of the interior

My question to you is: are there any chemical properties of filler foam that can harm the camera (barring direct contact when wet)?

I know it's non conductive and electrically insulated, but are there any properties (idk... like sublimation or whatever) that could potentially harm the camera's sensor (even though the lens cap will always be on when the camera is in the case)?

Help
 
Have you looked at Pelican cases? Specifically the 1550 for a small rig and the 1650 for a larger rig~

1550 is too small, 1650 is too large for my needs. The case is already ordered, I just need to know about the foam
 
Hoping that some of you redusers are part time chemists and/or building contractors, cause those fields of expertise will come in handy when answering my question =)

Right now I'm not happy with any Scarlet carrying case I've found online. They're overpriced and from what I can tell it looks like you have to take the screen off to fit the camera. Forget THAT!

I came up with a case design that will keep the camera safe with all accessories attached. The empty case ($100) is arriving tomorrow. My plan is to use filler foam to create part of the interior

My question to you is: are there any chemical properties of filler foam that can harm the camera (barring direct contact when wet)?

I know it's non conductive and electrically insulated, but are there any properties (idk... like sublimation or whatever) that could potentially harm the camera's sensor (even though the lens cap will always be on when the camera is in the case)?

Help

We can not answer this question without knowing what kind of foam you purhcased and how you intend on forming it around the camera.
 
We can not answer this question without knowing what kind of foam you purhcased and how you intend on forming it around the camera.

It's hilti foam. As far as forming it, I've made a plaster mold for the foam to form around

Edit: Basically, foam goes in the case, mold goes in the foam, wait for it to dry, cut cut cut, etc
 
I think this kind of material is going to gas (release chemicals) for a really long time I would be worried about these residuals attaching to any optics including the sensor in the sealed environment of your Pelican case...
 
Change all accessories to quick release. It will save your threads in the long run too.

Good advice but not what I want to do. Threads should be find if I'm not constantly screwing/unscrewing them
 
I think this kind of material is going to gas (release chemicals) for a really long time I would be worried about these residuals attaching to any optics including the sensor in the sealed environment of your Pelican case...

Exactly what I'm worried about!
 
I have simply gotten actual case foam CNC cut out to fit. This is where I have gotten my foam: http://www.penn-elcom.com/products/hardware/panels-laminates-and-foam/case-foam/70/ This is the only foam that I know of that doesn't cause any problems. This kind of foam is used in cases that hold equipment far more expensive and delicate than even an Epic.

Then I created a CAD layout of the different layers and took the file and the foam to a local cabinet shop that had a CNC router. He plugged it in and out came my different layers of foam that fit in the case.

I also had two pelicans outfitted with cut foam that I designed from Olympic case in Tampa. Once again I designed the layout in CAD and emailed it to them. They put it together and the 1610 case with the custom foam cost about $260.
 
Stephen, I really feel you should avoid expanding foam for your case. I filled some slider tubes with that stuff, and it still expands randomly out the tube ends after months of curing time. My friend ruined his sailboat trying to put it in the dead air spaces in the hold. It was coming out of every seam in the interior even after several months. The product is designed for filling small areas in construction not entire cases with expensive and fragile electronics. I haven't even mentioned that it's extremely brittle. Don't do it man!
 
Stephen, I really feel you should avoid expanding foam for your case. I filled some slider tubes with that stuff, and it still expands randomly out the tube ends after months of curing time. My friend ruined his sailboat trying to put it in the dead air spaces in the hold. It was coming out of every seam in the interior even after several months. The product is designed for filling small areas in construction not entire cases with expensive and fragile electronics. I haven't even mentioned that it's extremely brittle. Don't do it man!

Advice taken! I'll cut a top piece from regular foam and use the foam the scarlet came in for the bottom part
 
I bought several sheets of foam from a local custom case company. I'm pretty sure where ever you get them they pretty much always comes in sheets of 2'x4' at whatever thickness you want.
I got two kinds of foam, one is open cell and the other is closed cell (i think thats the term:-P). The closed cell is a stiffer foam that i use to line the bottom and the top of the case. and the softer open cell foam i used for the mid section. I used a knife to cut the holes i needed, granted its not as neat as a laser or warter cut ones you can buy. At first my cuts werent very good, but then I eventually figured out how to make good cuts and looks a bit better hehehe.


The picture is of the case I use for my Epic, as parts came in I added more cuts. Still couple more cuts to make for more stuff. and the other case I use for my fluid head.
 

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Doesnt Pelican have something called Pick N pluck foam, or something like that, where you can shape to your exact size?
Also, with cutting foam, you are exposing your electronics to very tiny particles that can get inside your machine and glass. That's why I always go to the pro's for foam (Innerspace) since their kind does not release any particles to my knowledge.
 
Doesnt Pelican have something called Pick N pluck foam, or something like that, where you can shape to your exact size?
Also, with cutting foam, you are exposing your electronics to very tiny particles that can get inside your machine and glass. That's why I always go to the pro's for foam (Innerspace) since their kind does not release any particles to my knowledge.

That is the exact reason why I didn't buy pick n pluck is due to those flaky particles. But when you make solid cuts from solid sheets and do a good clean after removing all the small bits you are fine:-)
 
The Petrol PC003 or the PD443 are soft bags with a hard interior shell. They open from the top (doctor bag style) and both have enough interior space to accommodate a Scarlet or Epic put together with all the trimmings. They are basically the same bag but the 443 has more dividers inside. They are cloth on the outside but the sidewalls and floor are quite rigid and I suppose you could layer up custom cut interior foam from caseclub (or similar) to make it perfect for your needs.I personally love the pelican 1510 for the Scarlet. Fits in any overhead and can be configured with custom foam to fit everything. If you attach nato rails to the top of your camera and the clamps to your handles and monitor you can basically slide them of and on in seconds. Total setup time out of the case for me is under a minute.
 

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