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HMI

Gregory Sheffer

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I am interested in a 2.5 HMI. My problem is power. Can the plug on a 2.5 hmi be replaced with a standard edison? What are other options for using a big hmi like this without having to have a generator?

Thanks.
 
Hire an electrician . . . really. Much cheaper in the long-run
 
I'm pretty sure they make just that adapter. Check with a rental house maybe?
 
The other option would be doing a tie-in to the location's power. This can kill you if you don't know what you're doing. Josh is right; hire an electrician. If a rental house has electrical distro packages for rent, more than likely they'll know local electrics they can refer to you.
 
HMI lights of 2.5K power and up dictate more power per circuit than a house's edison sockets should be expected to provide.
Even bridging two circuits is not recommended for the novice.
You should be thinking "rental generator" and "experienced film electrician" (yes, BOTH) to make use of that light.
If you have a studio space, you could have a commercial electrician wire it for safe use of large lights. I would also suggest a film cable distribution package, including drop down boxes and pass through boxes.
there are 1800 watt HMI lights from Arri you can rent that will work on a lot of household circuits... though the strike voltage will trip circuits in marginally wired houses, esp if the light is at the end of a long run of cable..
If you are in an old house with vintage wiring, stick to LED, Kino and under 1.2k size instruments..
I love HMIs, but only use them on projects on which they can be properly deployed and supervised.

If you do in fact have a dedicated studio space with modern wiring.. check into having it wired for some higher power draw instruments...
 
What about the use of a generator, and converting the HMI plug to a 220 dryer type plug?
 
Hire a Gaffer / film electrician… it's really your best option. Even if their rates are 'too high' for your production budget; you'll save bucket loads of cash over the alternative of screwing around making changes and then ruining a piece of gear, ruining your location etc.

As for this:

What about the use of a generator, and converting the HMI plug to a 220 dryer type plug?
Does this HMI take 220V?

I know on lower budget shoots that I've done at house locations (where we couldn't afford the genny), the gaffer ordered a tie in distro that plugged into the Stove / Dryer to give us power for the heavier loads. But I'm not going to give any advice except: Hire the right people who know what they are doing.
 
As Glen asks.. what voltage does the ballast actually need? What kind of generator are you able to rent.. there are many types that you can not use with an HMI... because they do not produce clean and stable enough power for them to fire up, run with constant freq rate, color temp, footcandle output level, or even stay running at all.
For what I am used to seeing a useable 2.5K HMI instrument and ballast sell for, I could hire a pro with lights, power source tools, and the experience and skills to make me look great without having to even touch the lights!

If you want daylight on a budget, think about FAY lights, if you want BIG lights on a budget , link Barger Baglite with separate 120v circuits for each set of internal bulbs...
If you want big movie infrastructure, hire the resources when you have the shoot..

Even if you know how to tie in (and if it's legal and safe to do it at your location... which it is NOT in a lot of places), you still do not want to be the camera operator and the lamp operator with large lights... its too much work..
 
I have a 1200 w HMI as well as a 2500w HMI. A 1200w HMI will pull 14-15A, so you can plug it to a regular house circuit. my 2500w is a little older and needs a little more power than new ones. It and most (but better check) 2500w will run 90-250v, it pulls 40A at 120v or 20A at 240v. So I can wire it to a 30A dryer outlet. Hot Hot Ground, just be sure to get the ground right. I recently ran a 4k with a newer electronic ballast off a 30A 240v outlet. You could make a 2-15A 120v spicer to a 60A 240v bates but its kindof rinky dinky, I would just use a dryer outlet. Or a 50A Range or welding outlet is even better. Otherwise you will need a 4500w-5500w genny dedicated to the light and with extra gas on hand to run a 2.5k.
 
Or get a 1.2K and save yourself the hassle :)

And this isn't really a terrible option. You could just run two 1.2K's off of different circuits.
 
Just one sugestion...

Just one sugestion...

Get an Arri M18 with the reflector kit. You can plug it in a 20A house outlet ( dishwasher, etc..)
It trows light like a mother****er.
 

I know on lower budget shoots that I've done at house locations (where we couldn't afford the genny), the gaffer ordered a tie in distro that plugged into the Stove / Dryer to give us power for the heavier loads. But I'm not going to give any advice except: Hire the right people who know what they are doing.


Glen is right. When it comes to electricity it is best to leave something like this to an experienced gaffer. For example, check out the post below from another thread on using range plug distro boxes. The whole thread (http://reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?t=34381&page=3 ) is worth checking out. It’s on powering a 6K HMI off the wall, but applies to powering a 2.5 also.

Peter Berger

You have to be really careful about splitting 240 circuits and running large loads on only one leg in this fashion. Since electricity can be dangerous if mishandled, I think it is important to understand why dividing a 220/240 circuit with a "Splitter Box" can be problematical. For those of you not familiar with "Splitter Boxes" they are a special distro panel that a rental house will make up that is wired to split out the two 120V circuits that make up the 240V outlet. If the 240 volt circuit is a four wire system (the receptacle has four slots: one for ground, one for neutral, and two for hot), one can use a distro box as long as it is wired so that each circuit has a ground and neutral. Where you run into trouble is when the 240V circuit uses a three wire system (the receptacle has three slots: one for ground, and two for hot, and no neutral.) Many household and industrial 240V receptacles use a three wire system (no neutral) because they were wired for the sole purpose of powering single phase motors or heating elements that draw a perfectly balanced load and return no current. A perfectly balanced load doesn’t require a neutral because the single phase service legs are 180 degrees out of phase and cancel each other out – hence there is no return that would require a separate neutral.

You run into trouble with this kind of circuit when you start to pull an unbalanced load on your "Splitter Box." And, where under most production situations you can never perfectly balance your lighting load, the two 120V circuits that make up this 240V circuit will not have 100% phase cancellation and the extra current of the high leg will not have a safe return path because by necessity with a three wire system you have had to bond the ground and the neutral in the splitter box (after all what else can you do with the ground and neutral of your splitter box but to bond them when plugging into a three wire 240V circuit.) There are some people that will argue that it is not such a big deal to carry current on the ground wire. I would argue that it is both unsafe and unwise to carry current on the ground wire. It is unsafe because the ground wire is intended only as a default conduit in the event of equipment failure (which is why it is permissible according to the National Electrical Code (NEC) to use a smaller conductor for the ground wire.) It is unwise because bonding ground and neutral after the service side of a main service head (which is what you have to do with the ground and neutral of a splitter box when plugging into a three wire 240V circuit.) is a violation of the NEC. To quote Mike Holt, of Mike Holt Enterprises, Inc.: “The National Electrical Code (NEC) requires a neutral-to-ground connection to be made at service equipment only and there shall not be any neutral-to-ground connection on the load side of service equipment [250-23(a), 250-24(a)(5)]” (full excerpt is available online at his website) If some one were to fall off a ladder because they took a non-lethal shock because the cable they were handling was carrying current on the ground wire your liability insurance would be null and void because you were using equipment that need not meet code.

It is also unwise to carry current on the ground wire because it can induce ground loops. It is a given that whenever you carry current on the ground wire there will be a slight difference in the voltage between receptacles in the power distribution system. A ground loop occurs when there is more than one ground connection path between two pieces of equipment and there exists a voltage differential. Under these circumstances, the duplicate ground paths form the equivalent of a loop antenna that very efficiently picks up interference currents. Lead resistance transforms these currents into voltage fluctuations. As a consequence of ground loop induced voltages, the ground reference in the system is no longer a stable potential (a floating ground), so signals ride on the noise. The noise becomes part of the program signal. The result is that the unwanted signal will be amplified until it is audible and clearly undesirable. Whenever you have current on the grounding system as well as the multiple connections between electronic components that is typical of HD production packages, there is the potential for a "ground loop."

Gound_Loop_Interferenc_Video.jpeg

Interference bars caused by current induced on a ground loop by high THD. ​

Small voltage differences just cause noise to be added to the signals. This can cause an audio hum, interference bars to video signals (above), and transmission errors in computer networks. Higher currents can cause more serious problems that can damage equipment like sparking in connections and burned wiring. As more and more electronic components, like lap top computers, hard drives, and HD monitors, are integrated into the typical location HD production package, ground loops become more of a hazard.

wwaveform_pkg_comp_AVR_In.jpg

Left: Conventional generator power w/ THD over 100 percent caused by pkg. of non-PFC Elec. HMI & Kino Ballasts. Right: Same lighting Pkg. but with PFC HMI & Kino Ballasts powered by our modified Honda EU6500is inverter generator. Note the THD is now under 7 percent.​

It is also worth noting that “ground loops” can result from the harmonic currents that non-power factor corrected electronic ballasts (HMI & Kino) throw back into the distribution system. Current on neutral conductors with a high Total Harmonic Distortion (THD) value will induce voltage in ground wires greater than the 2 volt maximum stipulated by IEEE Standard 1100-1992 "Recommended Practice for Powering and Grounding Sensitive Electronic Equipment." For instance, there was an episode, recently reported on CML, of a pilot shooting in HD that found they had 50 volts between the shield of the SDI line and ground. In that case the problem was fixed by running a "Drain" wire from the SDI Shield back to the Genny via the electrical lunchbox at the DIT station. For more details on why this is I suggest you read my newsletter article on the use of portable generators in motion picture production. The article is available on our website at www.screenlightandgrip.com/html/emailnewsletter_generators.html.

Transformer-Distro_Sam2.jpg

4k & 1.2ks HMI Pars powered from 30A/240V dryer outlet through step-down transformer/distro for Bose still shoot.
​

The only safe way to pull power from a three wire 240V wall outlet that meets the requirements of the National Electrical Code, and won't create ground loops, is to run your lighting load through a 240v-to-120v step down transformer like the one we manufacture for our modified Honda EU6500is generator. A transformer converts the 240 volts supplied by these industrial and household 240V receptacles back to 120 volts in a single circuit that is the sum of the two legs of the circuit. For instance, a transformer can make a 60A/120v circuit out of a 30A/240v dryer circuit that is capable of powering bigger lights, like a 5k or 4k HMI. What makes it safe to plug a step town transformer into three wire 240V outlets is that the transformer automatically splits the load of whatever you plug into it evenly over the two legs of the 240V circuit so that you have 100 percent phase cancellation. In other words, where there is no high leg, the loads on each leg of the 240V circuit completely cancel out and there is no return that would require a separate neutral and there is no return current on the ground wire to create ground loops.

Guy Holt, Gaffer, ScreenLight & Grip, Boston
 
We own two M18 and one M40 and in over 20 years we've been doing this, we've never seen an HMI as versatile as this.. super fast ignition and a really great practical and lightweight ballast... and Arri is really serious when they describe the product as the equivalent of at least a 3.2Kw Arrimax.. and the best part.. plug it on any house outlet without any fancy electrical work.. (but still, do hire an electrician, for your safety and because it wll save you a great amount of time, even in a small to midsize production..

Get an Arri M18 with the reflector kit. You can plug it in a 20A house outlet ( dishwasher, etc..)
It trows light like a mother****er.
 
.. and Arri is really serious when they describe the product as the equivalent of at least a 3.2Kw Arrimax.. and the best part.. plug it on any house outlet without any fancy electrical work....

When the Arrimax 1800 first came out there was a lot of discussion on these boards (http://reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?55400-Daylight-Source-Question) regarding whether the Arri M18 can operate off a standard wall outlet. With an Apparent Power of 2250VA, it will draw 19.5 amps at 115V and will always trip the common 15amp house circuit and will trip a 20 Amp circuit if there is something else, like a computer or light, on the same circuit. Where you can't always know what else is on the same circuit, or even if it is a 20 or 15 Amp circuit, it is risky to plug the Baby Max into the wall.

According to the previous thread the M18 was really designed for 230V markets like the European Union where its’ Apparent Power of 2250KVA fits comfortably in a 230V/16A circuit. In 120V markets like the US, to operate the M18 on wall outlets requires a number of precautions according to the previous thread.

Peter Berger
 
When the Arrimax 1800 first came out there was a lot of discussion on these boards (http://reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?55400-Daylight-Source-Question) regarding whether the Arri M18 can operate off a standard wall outlet. With an Apparent Power of 2250VA, it will draw 19.5 amps at 115V and will always trip the common 15amp house circuit and will trip a 20 Amp circuit if there is something else, like a computer or light, on the same circuit. Where you can't always know what else is on the same circuit, or even if it is a 20 or 15 Amp circuit, it is risky to plug the Baby Max into the wall.

According to the previous thread the M18 was really designed for 230V markets like the European Union where its’ Apparent Power of 2250KVA fits comfortably in a 230V/16A circuit. In 120V markets like the US, to operate the M18 on wall outlets requires a number of precautions according to the previous thread.

Peter Berger


We live in a 220V country and so far had no troubles with the M18.. though I still recommend to always have an electrician/gaffer at hand.. not really a good idea to go blind folded to manage lights.. trust the pros...
 
In the UK we can run 2.5 Arri or Filmgear HMI's off a 13amp 240v household circuit. The rental houses supply 13amp jumpers to allow you to plug into a normal 13A wall socket. I am quite happy running three in a house. We identify the separate circuits. So usually one off the kitchen, one off the ring main downstairs and one off the ring main upstairs. Most UK households have between 60 and 100A feeds so it's absolutely fine running three. Though not sure how this pans out in the States!
 
I am interested in a 2.5 HMI. My problem is power. Can the plug on a 2.5 hmi be replaced with a standard edison? What are other options for using a big hmi like this without having to have a generator?

Thanks.

If you have a Bates to Edison adapter you could power it but it would be pushing the circuit as its right at the threshold of tripping the breaker. I would opt to go with an Arri M18 or buy a Honda 6500w Generator with 30amp bates circuit to be safe.
 
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