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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Highest realistic ISO

1/36 (270°) for low to medium movement in frame were undistinguishable or considered better looking then 1/48 (180°) shutter variants to my test group in low/poor light setups

So just tell (adjust) the talent to not run around or act too frantic and you gain half a stop; however,
if your goal is the cinematic to be held up for close scrutiny, I advise trying 1/40 (216°) for a 1/3 stop gain.

Make sure you create and use a separate black shade for more open shutters!

There may be AC Hz flicker issues depending on your light sources and international location...
...so in some cases you will only be able to get away w/ 30/60 or 25/50 shutters

drop your shutter to the lowest that u can. 1/25 is what i use in singapore.
 
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One tactic that I use is to fill the shadows with 5600K or bluer light (1/4 CTB on 5000K, Full CTB on 3200K). This gives the sensor something to "bite on" in zones 2 and 3 so the noise pattern is more variegated in sync with the shadow detail vs random. Another trick is to flag off areas that you're going to crush in the grade anyway so they contrast a bit against the shadow detail you do want to hold onto, rather than getting homogenized into the noise floor.

IMO, 1600 is totally workable with some finesse. 3,200 only if some texture is part of the feel you want.

Cheers - #19
 
I appreciate all the shutter talk. I know all the tricks and use them often. However, I will probably be looking to shoot 45 degree shutter if I can get away with it. Medieval combat in the rain at night ;-) I have plenty of light. I just need all I can get out of the camera. So it sounds like 2000asa will be plenty. I'll post some frame grabs after the shoot.

Nick
 
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