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Hexolux Color Rendering - Dragon R3D's

Zeb B

Zeb B

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So I got my spiffy new Hexolux Group Buy kit today (I added a T7 to the kit) so thought would do a quick test on comparing the Daylight D7 to the "Tungsten" T7. The D7 has to be turned down to 70% to match the output of the T7. Didn't have my light meter with me so had to eyeball the exposure.

Shot with new Dragon v5.2.9 / RG4 color science, ISO400 with a 50mm Leica Summicron-C @ T11. Face of light fixture was 44" away from center of the pasta to give you an idea of light output. Light was focused to just cover the scene for maximum brightness and contrast with the black outer frame. No light modifiers or lens filtration was used.

Thoughts?

D7
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/117794729/Hexolux Tests/Hexo_D7.R3D

T7
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/117794729/Hexolux Tests/Hexo_T7.R3D

Edit: the watermelon was not a solid classic red - it was kind pinkish. Make sure you have the most current RCX installed
 
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Nice shots.

The tungsten is pretty nice. It's bang-on for correlated colour temp which is nice. The daylight is a bit not blue enough to be what I think of as daylight. The colours are a touch more pleasing on the tungsten too, although the red on the chart does go a smidgen orange (it's better on the daylight). RG4/DC works very well with both lights. Thanks for sharing.

Graeme
 
Thanks Graeme! Confirms my impressions. The D7 has way more color cast to WB correct and I was also surprised by the lack of stronger blue component. The RGB parade was not what I expected. You would think that the lighting fixture manufacturers would make a light source that would provide the blue component that all digital sensors crave.

I really like the out of camera color of Dragon + T7. I mean it's good to go with very little post tweaking. Might get an additional T7 for the kit for this reason.

Oh and . . . You are really dialing in the reds with the latest Dragon color science. Nice work Mate!!
 
Interesting product. From the R3Ds the Daylight version looks to have quite a bit of green. It would be great to test these on a face and chart and side by side with an HMI and Tungsten unit to really see if the color is all they say it is. I am always super skeptical about LEDs as none of them have managed to really provide full spectrum. And usually they are green even though they say they aren't.
 
Thanks, ZEB, for sharing, very interesting.

I would have loved to see a Light-bulb tungsten in comparison. ;o)

Both have a touch to little blue in it. ... easy to say for me after back-uped from the masters above :o)
I went into REDfilmlog. (1/1 to see all pixels in the parade and histogram, anything else might not show it precisely enough.)
My findings here, the orange pepper has less blue in it than the "black" background, as well less blue than the black square in the test patterns. (Which was too close for my taste to the objects: reflections and perhaps bounce light might limit it use -- am I too critical here? Sorry if).

The blue fringe below the strong horizontal line: Would be nice to hear some ideas how others think about. With so much dynamic range in the camera, shouldn't every main-part of the image above noise level? (Ideally?)
Sorry about my picky thoughts. All in all these lights looks not bad and I'm curious about your impression how they perform in production, when they run 10 hours un-interuppted. :o)

Thanks again.

I placed the indicator on the orange pepper in RFL, left and right from it, the very low value fringe.
 

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Here's what Hexolux has done for testing and their statement:
http://hexolux.com/cinewhite/
"These measurements were made with the UPRtek MK350 so that anyone with this new affordable meter can compare other sources. On the larger spectro-radiometers our quality results would be better, but no one would be able to make any comparison unless they were using the same meter on other sources."

I've been asked to do another Group Buy on Hexolux. Would like to get high level input regarding the quality and compatibility with the Dragon sensor with testing like my OP before requesting that. The build quality and value of Hexolux is there - just the usual questions when it comes to LED's in general.

Any other test subjects you would like to see?

Cheers!
 
I agree with the others, the T7 looks better and renders more accurate colors. At least in my opinion.

I'm wondering though if the D7 being dimmed to 70% causes this color shift. Is it still the same when at 100% output?
 
Dr. Sassi said:
The blue fringe below the strong horizontal line: Would be nice to hear some ideas how others think about. With so much dynamic range in the camera, shouldn't every main-part of the image above noise level? (Ideally?)...

I placed the indicator on the orange pepper in RFL, left and right from it, the very low value fringe.
Click to expand...

All I can do is guess but it kinda looks like that fringing represents a purity of color. The blue levels in the parts of the image that are either extremely yellow or extremely orange (or some combo thereof) have so little blue in them they fall below the noise floor of those areas that should have at least a little blue in them.

The T7 image, as you would expect, has more fringing at the bottom because it would naturally have less blue in its spectrum than daylight balanced D7s, although the D7 has a little less blue than expected.

Does that make sense or is my ignorance showing?
 
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Stacey Spears said:
I have wondered the same thing and have thought about using scrims instead.
Click to expand...

Color temp usually decreases upon dimming so I assume the slight lack of blue is possibly related to that. Especially since they are LED's. I'd recommend scrims or some ND gel.

Maybe Zeb could shoot the same scene with the D7 at 100% so we can compare color temp.
 
Matt Ryan said:
Color temp usually decreases upon dimming so I assume the slight lack of blue is possibly related to that.
Click to expand...

I noticed that when I added a softbox and then again when I added a 50 degree eggcrate to the softbox. This was with a different LED light. I turned the color temp up to compensate.
 
pinned for reference.
 
Matt Ryan said:
Color temp usually decreases upon dimming so I assume the slight lack of blue is possibly related to that. Especially since they are LED's. I'd recommend scrims or some ND gel.

Maybe Zeb could shoot the same scene with the D7 at 100% so we can compare color temp.
Click to expand...

I had the scene for dinner last night and in a smoothie this morning ;-)

I have a message into Hexolux Engineering to get their take on dimming. If I get a break in the next several days I'll shoot the color chart at different % and throw the softbox on as well.
 
Zeb B said:
I had the scene for dinner last night and in a smoothie this morning ;-)
Click to expand...

Wish there was a like button! I literally LOL'd.
 
Thanks for the tests Zeb, I didn't get in on the group buy, but I'm definitely interested in these lights.

Had a fiddle with your files in Redcine-X and both the Daylight and Tungsten lights look fine to me.








Daylight


Tungsten


Am just wondering now how these lights compare to the Fiilex Q-500.
 
Hey Les,
Nice work! That's what I need to see and hear in order to put together another Hexolux GB. That and the fact that I'm told that the last of the Hexolux GB orders will be shipped out by Monday.

The Fiilex Q-500 is a neat product - different from the Hexolux. It has spiffy color controls that let you dial in both K and Tint. The focus control and output is no where near the Hexolux but I can totally see having at least one in a full kit for those times you need a lower output source that can precisely dial in a color tone.

I have a good friend that works over at Fiilex so we could get hooked up on a Group Buy if there is enough interest. I feeling a bit like a Baghdad carpet merchant lately with all the Group Buys ;-)

Thanks for the post!
 
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