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Help needed: regulate d-tap from V-Mount to 12V

Patrick Grossien

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Hi everybody!

I'm looking for someone electronically smarter than myself - which should be easy ;)

I'm trying to experiment with some wireless gear. So I have a V-Mount Battery 130Wh with d-tap and I want to power a WiFi router Trendnet TEW-690AP off of it. The sticker on the AC Adapter says it delivers 12V direct current 0-1.0A to the router. I can't find anything else on the routers power supply specs.

The V-Mount delivers something between 16-17V when charged and something like 15.5V while it is being plugged into the camera. Now I want to power the router via a d-tap adapter cable while not frying it ;)

First I thought about just soldering a resistor into the d-tap plug's empty space, but I don't know how to go about it with the varying voltage.

Any advice from you guys?
 
Most 12V nominal devices can handle up to 18V.
Find out from the specs what it the voltage tolerance. Also your 12V AC adapter is putting at least 13-14V out anyway.
Have you checked it with a multi meter?
 
Most 12V nominal devices can handle up to 18V.
Find out from the specs what it the voltage tolerance. Also your 12V AC adapter is putting at least 13-14V out anyway.
Have you checked it with a multi meter?

Yes, that what I thought too ;) I measured 11.9. I'm pretty sure it's one of the few that's really that close.
Maybe I'll need to write them. I can't find anything about the voltage tolerance.
 
Thanks Dan! What about the 2A. Is that a problem if the original plug delivers 1A only?
I'll see if I can find the same thing here.
 
Amperage is more of a measurement of "capability" or "capacity" so, you could draw up to 2amps. If your device is rated at 1 amp draw, it might draw only 800ma and go up to 1amp sometimes, or it might be 1amp nominal, and sometimes spike to 1.2amps draw. really depends on what it is. I figured "go big"
 
I linked to that Amazon buck booster in another topic. I'm thinking about designing a 3D printed enclosure that would allow for a male D-Tap on one end and then an integrated female D-Tap on the output. When I get around to making it I'll upload it to Thingiverse so if you have access to a 3D printer you could make one. It'll be nice to cheaply make a cable in-line adapters that can regulate voltage at the push of button with digital readout!
 
The drok converter is said to need a heat sink... but I believe it's only needed over 2A. So nothing to worry about, right?
 
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