Helicopter shoot advice - stabilized lenses/ tyler minigyro

[Sam Gordon]

Hi there,

I'm planning a helicopter shoot on Scarlet, using a Tyler minigyro to take out the bulk of the vibration/movement. The IS in the lens is just to get the maximum stability possible (we will also be stabilizing in post, but I'm concerned about rolling shutter/jello). I understand that there are better solutions (eg full Tyler mount), but budget is tight.

I had considered getting the Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM, as it seemed to have the most video-centric IS system of the Canon range, and the right focal length for what we need (wide).

But in another thread, the advanced 'Dynamic Stabilisation' mode for video would not be active when used with the RED, rendering the IS useless. Is this correct? Are there any better options, eg the new-ish 24-70 f.4 L? Or The 24-105 (which I've never found that great in terms of sharpness and IS)

Regarding the tyler mini gyro, I don't expect it to take out all the movement - but the cost is lower that a Middle mount/ Cineflex. Any advice (I've heard some people rig with bugees?), or any alternatives in the same price range?

Anyone with experience using IS EF mount glass and/or helicopter shooting your input would be really appreciated.

Thanks

Sam

 

[Matt Uhry]

Most important thing is going to be the pilot - if they get in better / closer position you can get wider on the lens.

The mini gyro is a good device, make sure to practice with it while ferrying to positon, it takes a bit of getting used to and it's does not help when you get into wind buffet situations, best is to do most of the panning with the chopper itself. Handheld can give you good results too, especially if you are planning on doing post stabilization. it also lets you lean out the door quite a bit more to avoid skids / blades / doorframe. ( yeah use a safety harness for you and camera. )

I've not used AF EF lenses for chopper work, but it might be worth it to tape off the focus or wedge toothpicks into it so the focus barrel cannot vibrate and give you extra image shift. I'm guessing this is daylight and you can safely set what will be hyperfocal and ND to about a T8.

What kind of helicopter are you planning on using ? Big differences on where to sit and how to approach things.

Matt Uhry
www.mattuhry.com

 

[Peter Majtan]

There are several good threads around where myself and many other experience aerial shooters have posted valuable advice and feedback, so I am not going to repeat all that and instead focus on the IS question:

IS is a huge improvement when combined with brute gyros (such as the Tyler mini - which utilizes two Kenyon gyros built into shock-isolated mount). Do not worry about any "advanced video stabilization" or any such a things. These modes have been developed to assist with smooth tracking, usually in one direction (most of the time panning) and when used on tripods. Some lenses have the switch for stabilization mode on the lens itself. This is important and experimentation is needed when used on its own. However, when you are using brute gyros - simply use the standard mode (or mode 1 on Canon lenses). This is because it is the brute gyro that will take care of the smoothness of any such a motion. The IS will help with any extra sudden bumps or jerkiness introduced from wind or your contact with the camera system. So when using brute gyros and IS lenses - the IS helps to further stabilize the motion and should be used in the standard mode...

Things to remember with brute gyros:

- They need time to spin up to full speed. This can be over 5 min - check with the user manual. Until they are at full speed their stabilization effect will be limited. My habit is to start the gyros just before the pilot starts the rotors. It takes time for the engine fluids to get to operating temperature and for the ship to be actually able to lift off - and by that time I am ready to shoot.

- Avoid any jerking motion of the system when the gyros are spinning or you can damage the gyros. In particular avoid any impacts against solid objects, such as the airframe of the helicopter.

- Let the gyro do the work. You should only hold the camera very gently and use minimal force to point it in the direction you want. The more rigid you hold the camera - the more you are reducing the stabilization effect of the gyros.

- Similarly avoid any sudden changes in direction of the camera. your motion should be very smooth while tracking your subjects. Anticipate (feel) the motion of the ship and or the subject. Shoot wider if needed - remember you can crop in post...


If shooting in daylight - you won't need fast lenses. Quite the contrary - you will need screw-in ND (avoid the use of matte-box). Your lens should be set to f/8 - which will give you both deep DoF (a desired thing for aerial footage) and most lenses are the sharpest and have minimal optical distortions at f/8. This is where having (and knowing how to use) a light meter is a must. Using your local weather conditions - choose the appropriate ND to go with the f/8 iris. In most cases in bright daylight I use .9 or 1.2 ND. This is a personal preference, but most of us shooting aerials shoot at higher frame rates - usually between 48~60 fps and use faster shutter then 180˚ - this also helps with sharper images. If you decide to do so - account for this when metering for your ND choice...

:sifone: Peter

 

[Sam Gordon]

Thanks to both of you for your excellent help. I think I'll rent the Canon 24-105 for the shoot to give me a little more stabilisation.