Welcome to our community

Be a part of something great, join today!

Log in
  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

HDMI splitter

Marc Hutchings

Marc Hutchings

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 7, 2016
Messages
143
Reaction score
0
Points
16
Location
London
This might be a stupid question but I'd rather ask it than have something not working. I'm currently using a smallhd dp6 as my monitor (no red monitor) running hdmi from the base expander. I just bought a wireless transmitter which will also need hdmi so I'm going to need a hdmi splitter to feed both. Will any hdmi splitter work or do I need some sort of powered splitter? Any recommendations for this?

cheers

marc
 
No sdi on mine I guess that was a later upgrade, so it's a powered splitter I need right? Normal one won't work? Will need to find a cable to power it also
 
Marc Hutchings said:
Looked at both options difficult to find in the uk and postage time from US will make it a risky solution for the shoot I need it for. Trying to find other options that are small and fast to get hold of , do you think this could work - https://www.scan.co.uk/products/bla...m_medium=cpc&gclid=CJ2ug4KNzs8CFZG6GwodKrwFJg

or any other ideas welcome I'm a bit stuck!
Click to expand...

I would prefer the Atomos Connect products with integrated battery. You can just use the SDI to HDMI converter. Or it may be the same price as getting a monitor with SDI ports.
 
it all has to do with your set-up for power, but if you have a 5v USB output on your battery attachment, then you can probably power the hdmi splitter...

if not, you can get a portable cell phone charger and power the splitter/Paralinx... whatever you need to.

You can either splice the the power Cable with a USB cable to power the unit, or buy a cable that fits it... Type M, N or H should fit.

Might be a easier way or a portable power that has a type M cable attachment too... just never seen one
 
Power options right now, the ronins ptap powers the follow focus, the usb I will use to power the transmitter but I do have a 2 pin Lemo cable which splits into four ptap I guess I could just get a ptap to USB or 5v to power the splitter in which case I could just get a cheap powered hdmi splitter I guess
 
Marc Hutchings said:
Power options right now, the ronins ptap powers the follow focus, the usb I will use to power the transmitter but I do have a 2 pin Lemo cable which splits into four ptap I guess I could just get a ptap to USB or 5v to power the splitter in which case I could just get a cheap powered hdmi splitter I guess
Click to expand...

Probably want to figure out the power output on the Ronin

...and you would need to adapt the p-tap to fit a 3.5mm power input on the HDMI splitter
 
Its not so much an HDMI splitter as it is a distribution amp. You often run into EDID issues since HDMI depends heavily on it. Many of these HDMI D/As also have a side effect of stripping certain technology. There is one streaming provider that is buying every one off of Amazon and when they find it strips this technology, they have it pulled from Amazon.
 
is this why HDMI is not a good source for pro video display?
 
Jeffery Anderson said:
is this why HDMI is not a good source for pro video display?
Click to expand...
From a pure technical standpoint, it is a digital signal, so the quality can be perfect.

One of the issues is the EDID. A display reports what resolutions, frame rates, color spaces, dynamic range, bit depth, etc... that it reports in the EDID. A source device can use this information to decide what to send to the display. Problem is, this information can be wrong. During Xbox One development, we went out and purchased around 100+ displays for testing. I wanted to try and get as many makes and models as possible. We got a few off brands from Walmart. These were native 1080p panels and they reported 720p in the EDID, so we output 720p by default.

The only mandatory color space required for HDMI is RGB. Often, this is the least desirable color space to send. Why? Because every consumer display will convert the incoming RGB signal into YCbCr for image processing and then back to RGB for final display. Sometimes this results in a reduction in image quality. To be clear, it should not matter if you send YCbCr 4:2:2, 4:4:4 or RGB, they should all be identical. Many times there are quality differences. I created some patterns, and wrote an article, to try and help figure it out, at least for Blu-ray. I will do the same thing for UHD BD next year.

Then you have the issue where you can't run the signal very far, relative to SDI. It is also not a locking connector, so it may become disconnected.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top