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Green Screen Questions (Again)?
- Thread starter Ted Chu
- Start date
Dominic Jones
Well-known member
Well, it doesn't really matter what you light with, but I would pull the CT to as close to 5000K as you can.
For my money, large tungsten sources are much nicer then HMIs, so if cost is no issue I would go with a couple of stops more light than you need in tungsten and use an 80C filter on the camera (or 3/4 CTB on the lights, if you prefer).
Haven't used the green kinos with the Red yet, so can't comment on those - but Red is VERY susceptible to green light, so I would watch out for any spill like a hawk if using them...
Bear in mind (and sorry if I'm teaching you to suck eggs here) that you'll want a decent stop as you need to keep all the action well within your DoF, and may well want to skinny the shutter a good bit too to reduce motion blur, so unless money really is no object, you may well find the HMIs a better route overall.
For my money, large tungsten sources are much nicer then HMIs, so if cost is no issue I would go with a couple of stops more light than you need in tungsten and use an 80C filter on the camera (or 3/4 CTB on the lights, if you prefer).
Haven't used the green kinos with the Red yet, so can't comment on those - but Red is VERY susceptible to green light, so I would watch out for any spill like a hawk if using them...
Bear in mind (and sorry if I'm teaching you to suck eggs here) that you'll want a decent stop as you need to keep all the action well within your DoF, and may well want to skinny the shutter a good bit too to reduce motion blur, so unless money really is no object, you may well find the HMIs a better route overall.
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Charles Angus
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Red is natively about 5000k, I believe.
Gunleik Groven
REDuser Sponsor
rated at 5,6k untill b16.
now a bit in flux, really.
5,6k still works fine, though.
now a bit in flux, really.
5,6k still works fine, though.
Dominic Jones
Well-known member
Yup, no real need to filter the HMIs, but if you're going to filter the lights anyway (i.e. if you're shooting with tungsten sources), you might as well head for 5000K for two reasons - (a), it's a little closer to the sensors native CT, and (b) you loose a little less light...
Dylan Macleod CSC
Well-known member
Save yourself time/money and hassle by using an 80C on camera when shooting tungsten.
Same amount of light lost as putting gels on each of your lights. Way less work - rent a filter for $10 or buy hundreds of dollars of gels to put on lights...
80C corrects tungsten to 5000.
Same amount of light lost as putting gels on each of your lights. Way less work - rent a filter for $10 or buy hundreds of dollars of gels to put on lights...
80C corrects tungsten to 5000.
Matthew Greene
Well-known member
Shoot some black, with lens cap on, then when you "develop" it increase saturation and exposure settings and play with the color temp setting. The temperature that will give you the cleanest image will be the one where there is less noise when you do this test. My camera likes it close to 6000K.
As to gelling the lights or using a filter, whatever works for you. I've had some decent results with 3200K and a really bad greenscreen (check this tread) so It's not a *must* but it definitely helps to expose at a lower ISO and with the optimal color temp.
As to gelling the lights or using a filter, whatever works for you. I've had some decent results with 3200K and a really bad greenscreen (check this tread) so It's not a *must* but it definitely helps to expose at a lower ISO and with the optimal color temp.