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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Getting noisy footage at 200fps

Just wanted to add this Youtube video to show how nice a job neat video can do on this kind of shot. Bottom half of the frame is with Neat video applied. Open it and youtube and look at it full resolution to see the results.


 
Thanks guys for all the input here! Awesome to get so much feedback in so little time!
 
Seconding neat video

and making sure your blackshade is spot on, the sensor is noisier when it's cold and you're out in the snow.
 
Yeah, just tested neat video and it is making it so much better...

Regarding blackshade; other than calibrating the sensor, what else can I do to make it spot on?
 
Blackshade just cares about temp and shutter speed. Make sure you blackshade at the same shutter speed you're using (say, 1/400th or 180 degrees for 200fps). Also try to make the sensor the same temperature when you blackshade as when you shoot.

I find it's good to blackshade once the camera's been on for 20 minutes so it's in thermal equalibrium. When I blackshade within 5 minutes of booting up the camera, even if the sensor is at my target temp, I don't get as good of results.

If the little T/E indicator on the bottom of the screen near the histogram is green you should be OK, the sensor being too cold seems worse than too warm to me. You'll find too hot a sensor / too short an exposure will look less noisy but you're just crushing it not improving it.
 
Anton Shavlik said:
Blackshade just cares about temp and shutter speed. Make sure you blackshade at the same shutter speed you're using (say, 1/400th or 180 degrees for 200fps). Also try to make the sensor the same temperature when you blackshade as when you shoot.

I find it's good to blackshade once the camera's been on for 20 minutes so it's in thermal equalibrium. When I blackshade within 5 minutes of booting up the camera, even if the sensor is at my target temp, I don't get as good of results.

If the little T/E indicator on the bottom of the screen near the histogram is green you should be OK, the sensor being too cold seems worse than too warm to me. You'll find too hot a sensor / too short an exposure will look less noisy but you're just crushing it not improving it.
Click to expand...

Thank Anton :-)
 
Here's my take on it

9782w9W.jpg

Vimeo link for iOS: https://vimeo.com/148041245
 
One more thing came to me on this today.

Since you you are capturing a center cut of the sensor at 2k then it's a good idea to capture at the sweet spot of the lens aperture like f8 or 5.6 where most lenses are at their sharpest. Because you are essentially "blowing up" the image it wouldn't be a bad idea to eliminate ND as well as that can reduce image quality ever so slightly.

Best practices might be.

1. 2k only if you have to, try 3k or 4K as well.
2. Lots of light with histogram to the right.
3. Aim for Middle appertures where the lens is sharpest.
4. Lowest possible compression rates
 
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The lower you go in resolution the better compression and lower ISO you need to go in order to keep the image clean and good looking. But I would recommend never going under 3K since that's probably around the sweet spot for 1080p deliveries. I would rather have a little less high speed and go 3K than faster fps and 2K, just to get good looking images out of the camera. Also, remember that 2K is a crop of the sensor, so the lens field of view is much more narrow and you loose depth of focus on wider lenses. Personally I never go under 4K, the "bad quality" gets exponential when going lower than that. 4K is still acceptable, as seen in the Dare Devil series which was shot in 4K.
 
Hey Kurt,

I shot this at 2k, 240fps, ISO 800-1000, f2.9-4.6. RED CODE 7:1, low light OLPF:
https://vimeo.com/136157816
I can post R3D if anyone cares.

There some nose visible here and there but I find it tolerable over all and is not nearly as bad as you footage.
I didn't use any de noising.

My guess is that the cold might be interfering with your sensor.
Usually if you calibrate at working environment temperature, and you give the camera 5 min warm up time.
You should get clean image at the settings you are shooting.
Also if you are using day light skin OLPF, that eats a stop away and is my experience significantly noisier.

Just my 5¢
 
James Falco said:
Hey Kurt,

I shot this at 2k, 240fps, ISO 800-1000, f2.9-4.6. RED CODE 7:1, low light OLPF:
https://vimeo.com/136157816
I can post R3D if anyone cares.

There some nose visible here and there but I find it tolerable over all and is not nearly as bad as you footage.
I didn't use any de noising.

My guess is that the cold might be interfering with your sensor.
Usually if you calibrate at working environment temperature, and you give the camera 5 min warm up time.
You should get clean image at the settings you are shooting.
Also if you are using day light skin OLPF, that eats a stop away and is my experience significantly noisier.

Just my 5¢
Click to expand...

PS James that was GORGEOUS!!!!
 
Thanks guys, I was just trying to speak out in defense of high frame rates at 2k not show of my work. lol. ; )
 

Here's another 2k example, starts looking good at 12 seconds

As I recall, I shot it at f4.0 and exposed to the right. I stopped down in post to 100 iso, and graded in resolve with a film emulation lut for the contrast, as well as used some of resolve's sharpening. Skin tone highlight OLPF.
 
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