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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Free Video From RED102: Exposure

Thanks for posting
 
Hi Jay,

Good video. Thanks. Your point about "potential" noise with shooting blacks, and often wanting blacks, was very well made I thought.
I'm confused that you say to ETTL in the video? I thought best practice was ETTR as you get more information out of the top third of the sensor? (But of course take care not to clip.)

Best

Lliam
 
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RED cameras are known for pulling info out of shadows, but not in the case of clipping. I say in every video these are SUGGESTIONS. It all depends on what you are shooting.. But it is true that if your clipped areas of the sensor will be next to impossible to pull info out of.

Also remember the whole point of that video: The histogram is NOT your sensor, so you need to take care working with what you see vs what you are actually recording on the SSD. Using an external recorder would mean you care ONLY about the histogram.

Hope this helps
 
Jay A. Kelley said:
RED cameras are known for pulling info out of shadows, but not in the case of clipping. I say in every video these are SUGGESTIONS. It all depends on what you are shooting.. But it is true that if your clipped areas of the sensor will be next to impossible to pull info out of.

Hope this helps
Click to expand...

Hi Jay, thanks for the reply. I appreciate your videos are only suggestions. I currently always try to expose to the right as a general rule of thumb, but I'm always interested in hearing other ways of working. So to be clear you recommend ETTL just to help ensure you don't clip as the information is gone for good? If you pay proper attention to the exposure tools, is it not better to try and expose for an optimum amount of information (The proverbial "fat neg") off the sensor?

Best

Lliam
 
Yes exactly.. There are MANY situations where I will be far more aggressive when pushing to the right, such as in a shot where my exposure does not change while shooting. Or a rehearsed shot where I know exactly how much it will peak.. But in shots where there is some movement I cannot always predict in terms of lighting, I try to give myself some headroom for safty. I love how I can push my EPIC without noise (Within reason of course) but I don't like trying to save a blown element.
 
To add one more thing, experts rarely need my videos! :) So if you are starting out, or not completely comfortable with how a RED works, it's best to start off exposing a little to the left, and move over as you improve and become more comfortable.
 
By the way guys,

We're doing a strong membership push for the month of August.. So I'm starting this a day early. Anyone that signs up for Gold level or above will get $10 back on their first membership.

All you have to do to get this deal is email me or let me know you signed up on here, and your get $10 back.

Please check us out and sign up.. The more members we have, the more stuff we can do!

Thanks for letting me push my wares!
:laugh:

We're gonna put up a RED ONE video in a little while for old time's sake!
 
Jay A. Kelley said:
Yes exactly.. There are MANY situations where I will be far more aggressive when pushing to the right, such as in a shot where my exposure does not change while shooting. Or a rehearsed shot where I know exactly how much it will peak.. But in shots where there is some movement I cannot always predict in terms of lighting, I try to give myself some headroom for safty. I love how I can push my EPIC without noise (Within reason of course) but I don't like trying to save a blown element.
Click to expand...

Ok mate, thanks for clarifying.
 
Most people would say the "native" ISO of the camera (raw sensor) is 320, not 800. When you look at 320 ISO (at 23.98 fps in a 23.98fps timebase with 180 degree shutter) and then toggle raw view, the image's exposure is nearly identical before and after toggling. At 800 ISO the image is much brighter than the raw.
 
Jay A. Kelley said:
To add one more thing, experts rarely need my videos! :) So if you are starting out, or not completely comfortable with how a RED works, it's best to start off exposing a little to the left, and move over as you improve and become more comfortable.
Click to expand...

Sorry to disagree (a little bit), Jay! Even after 4 years of shooting RED for a living I still find your videos quite informative. It's not that they teach anything new to me, but it's the way you explain it. It makes so much easy to explain the non-initiated.

So thank you once again!
 
Jordi Figueras said:
Sorry to disagree (a little bit), Jay! Even after 4 years of shooting RED for a living I still find your videos quite informative. It's not that they teach anything new to me, but it's the way you explain it. It makes so much easy to explain the non-initiated.

So thank you once again!
Click to expand...

Then you might really like what's coming in the next few weeks.. We're doing a couple videos called Infotech GTS. This stands for Get The Shot.. The tutorials will be SHOT based, and then Camera Based. So you pick the shot you want, then the camera you have, and the video walks you through the entire process from setting up, lighting, camera set up, and then final in post. All the way through. This will cover the EPIC, SCARLET, and a number of other cameras as well.. We hope to start shooting these next week.

First of it's kind. Shot based, multiple camera specific tutorials... Gonna be killer
 
Wow, I actually really learned something from that video.

Introspectively, I thought I knew what the graphics by histogram represented, but I was dead wrong. I always thought the histogram and goal posts were tied into the same thing, and signaled clipping at the low and top end.

Thanks for the video, Jay.
 
I have been provided a red102 acc where I work and have been using it for almost a month now. He is a great educator of complicated things that are taught in a direct and simple way.
 
Jay thanks for posting that video! I found it very helpful.

I did along the lines of what you said and when I go to 1:1 and even come out of 1:1 i'm still getting noise even in a well lit situation even when the ISO is at 400, nothing really changes as far as the noise level when I go to 800. Any advice or thoughts on this? I can't seem to not have noise in my picture. I've asked RED for help multiple times as no on I really know has been able to fix the problem, but I seem to get dropped off the radar after a few emails back and forth.

I've done Blackshading as well.
 
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