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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Focus issues

Cicero A

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This is in regards to my scarlet-w but it pertains to most cameras I would assume so I put it here. if this does belong in the scarlet subforum, please feel free to me.

is there a reason as to why my focus is off?
When I have it set to single point AF and I click something, it will usually focus on the object, then go right past it and then give me the green light(letting me know I am in focus which I am now not as it went past the clear focus). If I have it on manual focus, I will have a green light showing it's in focus right /after before I actually get to a clear focus, and once I'm focused properly, the box will turn red as if it's out of focus. Any ideas?

on the 18-35mm sigma art, I had a box with a barcode set up. I manually focus to 0.4 M and get a perfect focus(which shows me a red box meaning its not in focus when it really is). But when auto focusing. It is focusing to the line between 0.35M and 0.4M(which is out of focus)
 
Here is a response that I received from tech support. If I should not or can not post this here please let me know and of course feel free to delete.
So as it seems it's a very hard engineering task to get it properly working. Hopefully we can get a colored focus peaking option(like blue or read lines around in focus objects) in an update :-)

From my own personal tests, I could never really get it to work reliably. I have brought this up to our engineering team and they are working to make improvements, but some of the issues have to do with the way the camera communicates with the lenses and requires a lot of engineering per lens an programming for this to be fixed.

Personally, I would recommend rack focusing manually as much as you can. It's nice to have the feature in-camera, but it seems to only work well on a small batch of lenses from our supported list. I can't recall which ones I have used in the past, but I do know it is sort of a hit or miss depending on the lens. I've also found that my images appear sharper when using manual versus auto. I only use auto as a focus assist to help get me close to being sharp, then manually adjust.
 
It indeed looks like a s/w bug. As you are looking at monitor that displays sensor captured image there can be no discrepancy between what you see and what the sensor captures. Unlike optical VF cameras like dslrs for example where you can have the software put in an offset...
 
It indeed looks like a s/w bug. As you are looking at monitor that displays sensor captured image there can be no discrepancy between what you see and what the sensor captures. Unlike optical VF cameras like dslrs for example where you can have the software put in an offset...


Tech said it's a widespread red issue that requires a bunch of engineering to fix. Best to use the other focus modes and focus manually. I don't mind focusing manually but the only mode that I can clearly get a good focus with is the mode that changes the entire screen a rainbow color(forget which mode as cam is not with me at the moment).
 
"raibow color" is probably false color but it has nothing to do with focus- it shows exposure.
 
Try mapping the magnify button to punch in, focusNd punch out. Its the only mode i ever use. That and also you can turn up the sharpness of your monitor. Edge focus is another option.
 
"raibow color" is probably false color but it has nothing to do with focus- it shows exposure.
its not false color. its one of the focus modes. I'll take a look at it when I get my camera back

Try mapping the magnify button to punch in, focusNd punch out. Its the only mode i ever use. That and also you can turn up the sharpness of your monitor. Edge focus is another option.

Seems to be one of the better options other than the colorful option i mentioned above.

Then again. Maybe it wasn't the rainbow color but more of a black and white color focus mode. I don't exactly recall. Whatever it was, it wasn't a normal looking picture. But it made getting manual focus quite easy.
 
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My advice is never to rely on autofocus but instead use a camera operator who knows how to focus. If it's scripted, rehearse and use blocking to determine where the talent are going to stand in relation to the camera, and then use a tape measure (or a laser focus) to determine distance. If it's a documentary where a lot of unplanned stuff happens, trust the monitor, increase the contrast slightly in the monitor or viewfinder to make it very clear when you're in focus. If you can't easily get to the focus controls, hire an assistant to do that for you with a follow-focus unit and a remote monitor.
 
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