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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Fluorescent Bulbs 200w Daylight

Without having tested this globe using a color meter, 85 cri at 5600K might be similar to cool white flouro tubes. Cool white can be corrected with a 1/4-green gel. Alternatively, DP's will add 1/4+green to HMI's to match them to cool white and request the color cast be corrected in post.
 
There is no greenshift issue with the good mogul base lights. We bought five full spectrum lights of this general type from Farm-Tek (CRI 90) and they were our go-to overhead lights for the majority of our film. Richard at Cool Lights sells a really "cool" and cheap fixture for mogul lights like this for about $100. They are great lights. We have four of 'em and would buy more if we had more room in the truck.

We also bought his 3200K fluorescent lamps for his Kinoesques, as well, but they do have a rather pink cast to them. We will use them only when we are out of halogen fixtures.

BTW, lest anyone get their panties in an ball over a " low CRI" of 85, let's all remember that the HMIs we all know and love (and always "just look right") have an inherent CRI of no better than 85. If you want a higher CRI, you'll have to use halogen lighting (CRI just under 100), but then there goes your blue channel. It's all a matter of (wait for it. . .) "balance." As for us, we much preferred the look of the Kinos and Kino-esques and HMIs to the halogens, so we sold off almost all of our halogens and bought more Kinos and HMIs.

Stephen
 
Hi there, Joel. . . yep. . . that's the one I used. . . and loved it. I bought the 3200K version from Richard.

I suspect that higher CRI bulbs do have a slightly lower lumen output simply due to the higher density of phosphors inside the bulb, but I can't be sure. I doubt if there is that much of a difference, however.

But, anyway, I wholeheartedly endorse these bulbs. We used them ALL THE TIME on our film. And I mean all the time. And our film looks gorgeous. We'd hang four of these bulbs in Richard's cheapie fixtures with the reflectors on them and then combine that light with some Kinoesques from Richard and 1200 or 2500 HMIs and the light was just fantastic.

:-)

Stephen
 
Erik Bien said:
In 220-240V versions for our European friends?
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, we don't get those bulbs from the manufacturer, and the place we get the bulbs from cannot order the 240v versions. So, we don't have a source for them.
 
Yeah. . . I suspect that Farm-Tek is sort of the same gig.

Stephen
 
I recently bought the ALZO 85watt cfl bulbs, great light; 5500K, CRI 91 and you can get four of them for $86.40. Deal !
Aloha
-A
 
What about the ballast? Won't this bulds flicker inm a standard enclosure from Home Depot or whatever?

What is a good solution for flicker free enclosures?
 
So what would be a good solution for a studio set up where I would need the equivalent of multiple 1KW Tungsten lights?

What would be the advantages of $1,500 Kino Flo lights over some of these cheaper solutions from a company like Cool Lights that appear to be half price?
 
I do have experience with both. Frankly, owning both Cool Lights and Kinos, I can't really see that much of a build difference between them. Yeah, the Kinos are "cooler" (in an esoteric, snobby sense) than the Cool Lights, but they are made of the same crappy polycarbonate honeycomb material (or, at least, I can't tell the difference between them). They both dent very easily.

We put our Cool Lights through hell this past summer shooting our feature and they were our workhorse lights. They were used on just about every indoor shot. We had two of those 4 lamp (bulb) 55 watts "portable" fixtures Richard sells. Unless I can find a cheap set of real Kinos on Ebay, I'll buy another one from Richard. They worked like a charm and mixed very well with our HMIs.

Stephen
 
Hey Stephen,

I'm curious what is the thing that makes you say "Unless I can find a cheap set of real Kinos on Ebay, I'll buy another one from Richard?"

By saying that you imply there is an advantage to the Kinos. Is it just slightly better build and the "pro feel" factor? Or are there tangible advantages like longer lifespan (although at 1/3 the price it would have to be 1/3 the lifespan!) or better color reproduction?
 
Just snob appeal. . . nothing more. There is no way that Kinos are worth the price compared to Richard's lights. At least, not to me, anyway. Light quality is identical. Indeed, you can put real Kino bulbs in Richard's fixtures anytime you want.

Stephen
 
I found it!!

I found it!!

This is for anyone interested in this kind of CFL lights, I found this on a UK webpage, they seem to be a little more expensive, but if you would have to ad Tarics to the Other bulbs here (assuming they would work on 220v) I believe it can come around the same price.

So here it is "Photoflex" Enjoy!

Has anyone used one of these? what do you think?
 
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