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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Filters Start Kit: The Best choices...?

david farland said:
I'd like to see a spot filter something like this.

View attachment 11503

Maybe a .6/.9ND spot in the centre of one of the quadrants would give most options. Thoughts?
D
Click to expand...

I've thought about that option for quite some time.....

It would limit you on framing options (Always being stuck with the good old rule of thirds) but aside from that it's a very viable option.

Maybe a better option would be a duel filter system consisting of a small polarized circle in combination with a standard pola filter.....once rotated the combination of the two filters could nearly remove your sun spot if necessary. This concept goes much along the lines of the rosco view ploa gels used for windows.

http://www.rosco.com/us/video/roscoview.asp

Thoughts?
 
Horses for courses

Horses for courses

The Attenuator has no transition edge. The very top of the filter has 2 stops of ND and the very bottom has none with a constant and very even gradient between them. I am happy to use soft edge and hard edge grads for lock offs and other set shots but they can be a PITA when camera and or subject movement is involved, that's when the attenuator rocks.
 
I think Cokin and Hoya made a lot of funky resin (read plastic) filters with spot NDs like that, David. I don't know if they do anymore, and also they were mostly 3x3 filters but you could use one in a jam, up very close to the lens. Very cheap and good optical quality although easy to damage.
 
Thanks Doug/Alex.

Solution seems to be begging for a spray can and a piece of optical clear glass
 
Spray can - sure. You could even try a dot of ND gel up very close to the lens so the edges are out of focus and soft. We used to make our own diffusion with clear filters and a bit of petroleum jelly. You could use just a little, then wipe it off for a light effect, or just around the edges for that "dream" or "I remember the old days" look. You could also draw lines through it to streak the highlights. Oh yeah, and those star filters for that "pro wrestling extravaganza" wide shot. Yeeha.
 
Doug you're nuts! :) Where can I get Arri vaseline?

Please someone explain the CTB to me! 80's (80A and so on, not the Rick Astley 80's) are banned for sensor VS film reaction, I'd like to know more, my DP is awayyyy... Let's make this an educational interesting thread, there's already plenty of great and different experiences shared, I want more...

Thanks again to all for amazing input!
 
I have a tube of Arri grease, Lewis! I think it says specialfett. Really thick stuff for old Arri movements, which I will probably never use again (old Arri . . )

As I understand it, if you shoot tungsten with RED and don't want a warm, tungsten look when you correct to neutral you may get noise. Now you can white balance to the tungsten color with that user button on the side of the cam, but I've heard it said here that this method can result in more noise in the shadows. So you use a CTB or 80 series filter to shift the color to daylight. This of course reduces your overall exposure so you have to compensate for that. I don't have any CTB filters or 80 series filters for my camera as I have HMI and Kino type lights in my trailer and use them mostly and also will use CTB gels over tungsten practicals if I want them bluer. But I'll probably borrow an 80B and 80C and experiment.
 
Small question about ND's and the Hot Mirror,

If I stack a ND9 filter with the ND1.2IR filter, would I need another Hot Mirror of is the one in the ND1.2 enough?

thanks.
 
Since then, I have a great kit. I use it all the time and it's my preferred recommendation for anyone as a good basic kit:

-IR ND (.3/.6/.9 > IR plus ND, saving a stage...)
-CTB (1/8, 1/4, 1/2)
-Circular Pola

Voilà!

Next batch:

-Grads NDs...
 
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