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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Filming from a boat

Andy Kolb said:
Randy from Kenyon recommended one of their new gyros KS-4X4, KS-6X6 or KS-8X8 to me.
These are basically two gyros in one housing I believe.
I think will try one of those with a modified version of The Clutch and also handheld with the Epic.
Click to expand...

How are you planning on modifying the Clutch?

Sideline thought - Kenyon is only 26 miles away from my location.
I would be willing to drive to their facility with both my EPIC and Clutch to see if there is a solution.
Might be an alternative to shipping them overseas for a test.

I remember talking to them about the dual gyros back in April - good to hear they are getting ready to ship.
 
I'm not quite sure yet.

I would move the shoulder pad to the back so the gyro can be mounted directly under the Epic.

Or I would try to setup a handheld type configuration with a handle on each side of the camera and the gyro mounted under the Epic.
 
When you hand hold on a boat there are three mechanicals that induce movement in the frame.
1/ The camera moving on your shoulder.
2/ Your body moving around on the boat
3/ The movement of the boat.

You can see that by using a tripod you immediately eliminate two of the above.

In general if wave action is low height then a tripod can work well. (strap it down and use foam under the tripod to reduce engine vibrations)
You will have to frequently adjust the bubble but it eliminates low frequency wobble induced by camera moving on your shoulder and via your body moving.
Ok you will get boat motion (rise and fall and some floating horizons) which is usually less objectionable than erratic hand held wobble. It depends on the frequency of the motion...
A rolling spyder or baby legs could be preferable if you have difficulty standing.


I own a kenyon and it will not always significantly reduce low frequency, it wont stabilise the boat or your body:) but the erratic hand held wobble will have smoother transitions when camera changes direction.
You can try loosening frictions and springs in the head and bolt the kenyon to the par bar or top of camera, this eliminates high frequency vibration, I use this for ultra long lens use. the heavier the payload and greater mechanical rigidity between camera head and tripod the heavier the gyro required to absorb the vibrations.

The challenge with using a tripod for your gig appears to be that the boat frequently changes direction?
Can you work around this? is it time or budget related? Can you rig two tripods?


When shooting from a small open boat (ie 6 -20 feet) in water with moderate wave action, a usefull technique is to stand up (!) using a waist harness to secure yourself to the boat, you actually lean back so the rope so it takes much of your weight and you use your legs to stabilise horizon rolling movement. Freaky until you get the hang of it and you need to be fit, skiers legs are a good start.
Make sure its rigged with a quick release knot and strap a divers knife to your leg.
A cinesaddle can work well for grabbing long lens shots, if you have a deck.

The stabilsied rigs work well on boats and a 42x or 22x lens hoovers up every shot in sight with speed, ease and perfection.
Ypu may find that a combination of techniques will work for you. Hand held for the wide, running to the side of the boat and quickly framing, then stabilising position of boat and using a tripod for the closeups.


Mike Brennan
 
Thanks Mike.

I think we are talking about two different scenarios.

This is basically what I'll be doing.
I'll be on that chase boat and want to smooth out the vibrations of the engine and the water.
 

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    chase_boat.jpg
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Hi Michael,
I am the original poster, however many others have posted and this discussion has become enriching for all of us.
The challenge that I am facing is that due to the current in the high tide, when the large motor boat is close to the bank and I am filming a croc/tiger on the bank, the boat turns a bit. In my previous trip, I had not carried the rubber feet of my Sachtler tripod. I think that along with the foam will reduce the vibrations slightly. I am also inclined to examine the kenyon gyro on top of the camera. I will have to explore further. Thanks for your excellent suggestions.
Cheers,
Sabyasachi

Michael Brennan said:
When you hand hold on a boat there are three mechanicals that induce movement in the frame.
1/ The camera moving on your shoulder.
2/ Your body moving around on the boat
3/ The movement of the boat.

You can see that by using a tripod you immediately eliminate two of the above.

In general if wave action is low height then a tripod can work well. (strap it down and use foam under the tripod to reduce engine vibrations)
You will have to frequently adjust the bubble but it eliminates low frequency wobble induced by camera moving on your shoulder and via your body moving.
Ok you will get boat motion (rise and fall and some floating horizons) which is usually less objectionable than erratic hand held wobble. It depends on the frequency of the motion...
A rolling spyder or baby legs could be preferable if you have difficulty standing.


I own a kenyon and it will not always significantly reduce low frequency, it wont stabilise the boat or your body:) but the erratic hand held wobble will have smoother transitions when camera changes direction.
You can try loosening frictions and springs in the head and bolt the kenyon to the par bar or top of camera, this eliminates high frequency vibration, I use this for ultra long lens use. the heavier the payload and greater mechanical rigidity between camera head and tripod the heavier the gyro required to absorb the vibrations.

The challenge with using a tripod for your gig appears to be that the boat frequently changes direction?
Can you work around this? is it time or budget related? Can you rig two tripods?


When shooting from a small open boat (ie 6 -20 feet) in water with moderate wave action, a usefull technique is to stand up (!) using a waist harness to secure yourself to the boat, you actually lean back so the rope so it takes much of your weight and you use your legs to stabilise horizon rolling movement. Freaky until you get the hang of it and you need to be fit, skiers legs are a good start.
Make sure its rigged with a quick release knot and strap a divers knife to your leg.
A cinesaddle can work well for grabbing long lens shots, if you have a deck.

The stabilsied rigs work well on boats and a 42x or 22x lens hoovers up every shot in sight with speed, ease and perfection.
Ypu may find that a combination of techniques will work for you. Hand held for the wide, running to the side of the boat and quickly framing, then stabilising position of boat and using a tripod for the closeups.


Mike Brennan
Click to expand...
 
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