Welcome to our community

Be a part of something great, join today!

Log in
  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

exposure

If you're in the RAW viewing mode, the scopes become more accurate in regards to what you're actually capturing, right.
 
MJ KERBER said:
If you're in the RAW viewing mode, the scopes become more accurate in regards to what you're actually capturing, right.
Click to expand...

Set your viewing mode to raw and change your ISO. It's still an interpreted mode. Probably more accurate than the others but maybe not as pretty to look at. Build 17 will have improvements. I hope there is a scope mode that is not affected by ISO changes but instead tries to show what's really happening. Hopefully that can be passed on to the false color function (which hopefully will be able to be assigned to a button while another button has edge focus assist). Whew. RED gets a little more refined every month.
 
I did the same test and got similar results (100ISO at 18%grey)...and than changed my method. I shot different exposure settings under different ighting situations, also with my color chart, only looking at RED`s "exposure diagram", still don`t know its name..anyway. Afterwards I checked my RAW files in 2K on a 2K color matched monitor with waveform control. Then I started to interpret the camera`s parameters viewing the results. Now I know how to treat the tool to get the desired exposure out of it, I only use my spot meter to check the contrast ratio of a scene, but not for exposure settings. I had to attune to this new method, also regarding lighting ratios etc....already written about it in another threat here. Two more thinks to think about: the chip`s sensibility is in the blue wavelenghts, I always use HMI-lighting and never set the cam below 5000Kelvin. Otherwise it starts to get noisy. And, I always try to avoid hard contrasts, it`s better to give more detail to the shadows and less to the whites and to set the desired look later in cc. All that for avoiding noise and clipping. Good luck. OLI
 
I just got off two red shoots recently. Here's something that most will say sounds nuts/crazy/etc.. but I'll say it anyways because it does work.

Get a reflective light meter, set it to ISO 32, spot meter the brightest non-specular highlight, then shoot at that f/stop. If its in between f/stops, bias towards underexposure, to be safe.

Done :)

EDIT: ISO 32 is NOT a typo.
 
I should also add that depending on the accuracy of your spot meter, ISO 40 isn't a bad choice either. It depends on the degree of your spot meter, and how far you are from the subject being metered, etc... ISO 40 just builds in a little overhead room if you feel a bit nervous.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top