biker_eh
New member
My two and a half cents...
As you may or may not know digital cameras of all types have a Native sensorASA rating. This usually ends up being the point where you would derive a symmetrical dynamic range (ie. 5.5 under and 5.5 over in exposure). From here you can decide what is more important your highlights or shadow detail.
If you intended to shoot dark moody scenes you are actually better off shooting a slower ASA speed on the camera say 200ASA. (ie. 7stops under - 4 stops over) and Grading the picture to deliver the specific Gamma and Gain of the image. Aa mentioned in this post all ready shooting a higher ASA like 500ASA will end up giving more room in the highlights sacrificing your shadow detail. (ie. 4 stops under - 7 stops over). Check out my super basic text art below. Keep in mind there are a few other factors that come in to hand when deriving actual dynamic range so the even stops below and above will certainly vary.
The final two words on all digital cameras is making sure you deal with the footage at the highest Bit Rate possible as this will help preserve your precious latitude gradients. Keeping an eye on your mid-tone range and exposing your 18% grey (aka skin tone) at a point that looks best after processing is also very important. If you don’t figure this out you may be adding noise which is not desired in you mid-tones.
:::BASIC TEXT ART:::
(We will call 200 our Native ASA. Keep in mind that due to Signal Noise in the blacks your actual dynamic range will change.)
ASA Stops over+ Stops under-
800 7.5 3.5 (18% is based lower in signal voltage on a wave form)
400 6.5 4.5
200 5.5 5.5 (Native ASA of Sensor in theory)
100 4.5 5.5
50 3.5 7.5 (18% is based higher in signal voltage on a wave form)
Again these views are based on basic princaples and dont reflect other factors that come into play with digital processing and posting or RAW data.
As others have said on this site the ASA ratings on the RED ONE is really just a way of helping you compose your lighting ratios and aperture opening for your different lighting scenarios. Knowing the Native range of the camera and shaping your shadow and light range in a way that suits your look in the end is all that really matters. Just like any film stock exposure and post processing steps.
I hope this may help.
Cheers
Chris
As you may or may not know digital cameras of all types have a Native sensorASA rating. This usually ends up being the point where you would derive a symmetrical dynamic range (ie. 5.5 under and 5.5 over in exposure). From here you can decide what is more important your highlights or shadow detail.
If you intended to shoot dark moody scenes you are actually better off shooting a slower ASA speed on the camera say 200ASA. (ie. 7stops under - 4 stops over) and Grading the picture to deliver the specific Gamma and Gain of the image. Aa mentioned in this post all ready shooting a higher ASA like 500ASA will end up giving more room in the highlights sacrificing your shadow detail. (ie. 4 stops under - 7 stops over). Check out my super basic text art below. Keep in mind there are a few other factors that come in to hand when deriving actual dynamic range so the even stops below and above will certainly vary.
The final two words on all digital cameras is making sure you deal with the footage at the highest Bit Rate possible as this will help preserve your precious latitude gradients. Keeping an eye on your mid-tone range and exposing your 18% grey (aka skin tone) at a point that looks best after processing is also very important. If you don’t figure this out you may be adding noise which is not desired in you mid-tones.
:::BASIC TEXT ART:::
(We will call 200 our Native ASA. Keep in mind that due to Signal Noise in the blacks your actual dynamic range will change.)
ASA Stops over+ Stops under-
800 7.5 3.5 (18% is based lower in signal voltage on a wave form)
400 6.5 4.5
200 5.5 5.5 (Native ASA of Sensor in theory)
100 4.5 5.5
50 3.5 7.5 (18% is based higher in signal voltage on a wave form)
Again these views are based on basic princaples and dont reflect other factors that come into play with digital processing and posting or RAW data.
As others have said on this site the ASA ratings on the RED ONE is really just a way of helping you compose your lighting ratios and aperture opening for your different lighting scenarios. Knowing the Native range of the camera and shaping your shadow and light range in a way that suits your look in the end is all that really matters. Just like any film stock exposure and post processing steps.
I hope this may help.
Cheers
Chris
