Terry VerHaar
Well-known member
This is a tricky thing and it gets better or worse depending on your camera's overall DR. The more DR range you have to play with the further down the underexposure scale you can place skin tones without too much compromise in color/exposure fidelity. Digital cameras are weird. They "see" and record linearly. Something that is the complete opposite to how we "see". Because of this linearity a digital camera's DR range gets filled up with a disproportionate amount of mid-highs and highlights taking up about 2/3rds of that total DR range. Just the bottom 1/3 is actually used to record or capture all those mid and shadow tones. The bummer is that those mid and shadow tones are usually the most important things in our scenes!
So if you have a scene like this one and you want it to "look" like this when finished you have two choices:
![]()
You can close down your stop until it "looks" right by eye on your calibrated 25" OLED monitor. It's sillhoutte-y and "feel" like dusk. You've still got detail in the sun and your actor is mostly in shadow with just a hint of detail. Because your camera is rated at a Base ISO of 800 and you haven't deviated from that setting you feel you're going to be fine in Post. You'll have enough stops above and below middle-grey just in case you want to make tweaks later. The problem is that 18% Grey in this scene is not your actor's shadowed face. It's probably closer to the sky at the top right of the frame. Your actor's face could be a good 5 Stops under key (mid-grey). If you decided later to build a power window over your actor's face and lift the exposure there so you could see his eyes you may be disappointed. Now you've got dirty, noisy skin tones. And there's really not a lot you can do about it at this point.
Or you can go the opposite route and decide to ETTR or fill up the sensor's DR range as fully as possible. You'll get a brighter looking picture on your 25" OLED but you already know that you'll pull it all down later in Post Processing. Depending on your needs and how much contrast range (stops) there is between the sun and your actor's face you'll need to decide just how much you'll "overexpose" the scene to get your "fat negative". Too much and you'll end up with a clipped sun. Too little and you may not get enough exposure or color separation in your actor's face.
So how do you know what the "right" amount of over-exposure is? If you've read Ansel Adams' books and own a meter you might be fine. If you've been shooting with the same camera for 3 years you might also be fine. But the only real way to be sure is to have a consistent RGB output from your camera that shows you that camera's entire DR range at all times. This is the case for a proper Log output. For EPIC at ISO 320 and RedLogFilm we get very, very close. Setup this way you basically have access to all of the raw sensor data (it's just converted into an RGB image so we can see it!). Is the sun going to clip? Just look at the monitor and check the waveform. Oops! It is clipping, but just a little. Close down a 1/3 Stop. Sweet! Perfect. How's the actor's face? Hmmm. It's a little low. Only 17% on the waveform. Will it work? Maybe? It's hard to tell when you're looking at a Log image. The camera has such DR that everything just looks lo-con and flat. It looks like crap actually. What to do?
3D LUT !!!
Boom! All of a sudden you can set a "look" over your Log image (entire RGB video interpretation of raw DR) and shift it to your desired final output image. You've got access to both the raw sensor DR and your intended scene "look" or "exposure". Is a 3D LUT the same as the metadata tools found in the RED cams and in RCX? No. Because REDs tools only work for RED products. A proper 3D LUT should be platform agnostic.
As Mark has already mentioned the importance of getting proper 3D LUT and CDL support via RED and as he's said it's kinda a big deal (which it is) and as he's suggested maybe it would be better discussed in it's own thread... all I'll say for now is that when a Log/LUT workflow works, it's pretty frickin' awesome.
I think this is where Mark's request for Exposure control in raw comes in - plus green; clipped values, noisy values and middle grey get "flagged" with colors so you can see exactly where your (in your example) actor's face falls in the exposure range.