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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Epic & cold weather?

P

Peter.G

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Doing a winter shoot in the Rocky Mountain region in Early Feb. and expecting some below zero days. This will be my first Epic job in these conditions!

Any notes or experiences to share would be greatly appreciated.

-P
 
No matter what anyone say, Epic does not cause cold weather. Even after the price drop. ;-)
 
Touch screen can become a little unresponsive in low temps. Easy fix is to hold your whole palm over the screen for a bit.
Spent a good bit of time trying to figure out why a double tap wouldn't bring my menus back with that one :)
 
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Terry VerHaar said:
No matter what anyone say, Epic does not cause cold weather. Even after the price drop. ;-)
Click to expand...

Moderators!

***Please limit posts to useful information regarding the topic!

-P
 
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Jake Bastian said:
Touch screen can become a little unresponsive in low temps. Easy fix is to hold your whole palm over the screen for a bit.
Spent a good bit of time trying to figure out why a double tap wouldn't bring my menus back with that one :)
Click to expand...

Hi Jake,

Thanks for the info. Did you try using a stylus pen of any kind?

-P
 
If you can try to keep your batteries and any LCD/viewfinder slightly warmer, they'll be more efficient. Also, do a black calibration on the camera at its idle working temperature.

Have fun!
 
I shot 2 months with our Epic this winter in the North of Norway. Half of the time hanging out of a helicopter making it even colder. Never had a problem at all. DO keep your batteries a warm if you can (and leave the Redvolts at home ;-))
Have fun
 
I shot on a frozen lake on the Russian border last winter. It was around -30 C. Didn't have a single problem with the camera. The cable from the V-mount got pretty stiff, but it wasn't a big deal. Taped a handwarmer on the back of the LCD for part of the day. Doing it again I would definitely bring a cooler for the batteries. I would also bring warmer clothes for myself :)
 
Stiff cables, unresponsive touchscreen and fast-draining batteries. All of which were solved by protecting the camera from excess wind and taping some hand-wamers iside of the cover we had over the camera. We also offloaded all major cam functions to a connected redmote. Worked great in some brutal Canadian winters.
 
Technically it is not about temperature - it is about potential moisture condensation/leaking inside camera body. Should be relatively safe up in the mountain - cause it is dry air up there. And should be potentially dangerous down to a sea level - especially close to the shoreline or so. But sure all boards inside EPIC has some protective coating - but anyway keep your camera as dry as you can all the time. And ask tech support about specific conditions of use - sure they can give some more specific advise. Anyway silicagel dry packs and warming packs could be really useful.
 
Of course its also about temperature.
Batteries don't like cold, they suffer and your mileage suffers too.

Beware of condensation and do not use any kind of artificial warming if possible. Let it warm up on its own.
Cover it, inside case, bag or something else tight for the parts that are affected (camera body, lenses in particular).
 
I'm based in Colorado, I shoot a ton in the Rockies.... The EPIC handles cold like a champ. However, there are some precautions that must be taken with ANY CAMERA...

* Batteries operate sluggish in temps lower than about +22°F and the performance degrades the lower the mercury drops. Depending on conditions and battery formulation / design, they can eventually freeze enough where they don't work at all. Usually around the -15°F to -25°F range. As has been suggested above, keep them in a place where they won't freeze. A cooler or soft-sided thermal bag are great options. Throw in some hand warmers or other heat source or keep them in a vehicle.

* The sun is an excellent tool for keeping stuff warm. Vehicles, equipment cases, etc.. all get warm in sunlight. If you're shooting at night, bring a heater or something.

* Metals expand and contract in temperature changes. Always loosen all rod clamps, lens mounts or any accessory bolts before going from living environments to extreme cold! Same thing going the other direction. Let the equipment acclimate to the environment before tightening things down.

* Plastics get stiff and brittle in extreme cold. When you're out there at -20°F and below, be wary of cables or other rubber or plastic items, they can become brittle enough to crack or break.

* The cold air in the mountains is typically rather dry. However, humidity is very common in areas around living spaces or places with a lot of snow. When returning in from the cold, it's best to loosen all your stuff (already mentioned) and bag it while in the cold. Then let it warm up inside in the bags, it will help keep condensation away. The other option that I like better than bags is to allow the warming in an area you know is dry and has good airflow which cycles known dry air.

* Wind likes to blow in the mountains. Make sure you keep your camera protected from blowing snow and other debris. Keep you and your crew protected too. Cold is one thing, combined with high alpine environments makes it something else.

* Plastic bags in the form of trash bags, clear equipment bags, tarps, etc.. trap heat, especially solar heat. They are all an effective way of protecting gear from the elements and keeping things warm.

* At seriously cold temps, some lubes used in lens mechanics or other moving parts can become stiff, even freeze. Only had it happen once real bad, but a rental set of primes froze up on me once where it was near impossible to turn them. Couldn't shoot with them because I didn't want to force anything and potentially cause damage.

* Try to test all your gear and methodology in approximate conditions before the actual job starts.

* At -15°F or so and below, LCD screens can literally freeze. Serious cold can make them sluggish, cold enough makes them freeze and stop working, and very cold can cause damage. A hand-warmer packet replaced every so often on the back side of the LCD screen usually takes care of this problem. If you're in the sun, the sunlight usually keeps the camera and all this stuff warm anyway.

* Desiccant packets (silica gel packs) are handy to absorb moisture and possible condensation. If there is some humidity in the air when returning your equipment to warm air, it doesn't hurt to throw a few in the bags or cases. I keep a few in my lens cases at all times. You can buy them at Home Depot, Granger, Northern Safety, etc..
 
Thanks for all of the responses...

What about at the end of the day. Is it safe and best to leave the camera in the cold environment (camera truck, car, etc...) or bring it inside and re-acclimate it in the morning?
 
I always bring it in at night and no harm done so far. The LCD and cables will at least start out warm the next morning
 
It will be a PL lens shoot, but what about still lenses... Canon specifically!

We always have an extra Epic body with Canon lenses for mobility...any issues in the cold?

-P
 
Just to add/re-enforce what has been mentioned about condensation:
one of the BIG probs is bringing gear in that has been exposed to cold temps for over, say 20 min. is that everything (!) with an air pocket or air exposure gets very WET with moisture condensation upon return to warm room/car/etc. Its instantaneous. Fogged lenses and moisture on electronic bits you do NOT want wet.
So-
Stick gear (camera, lenses, electronic accessories) into a plastic bag and SEAL it while OUTSIDE before you go indoors. Leave in till you go back out if its a brief time, or for an hour or two before opening inside.

Stu Aull
SX 199
Alaska
20 yrs arctic shooting
 
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