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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Epic build 408: whats Cal:T/E ?

It tells you whether or not your current black shade calibration is appropriate for the conditions you are in. I belive T = Temperature and E = Shutter or Exposure. I would love someone else to chime in here for confirmation. But the letters change colors from green to yellow to orange to red depending on how off or on they are.
 
here's the answer from Red, thx Nick:

Cal T/E signals whether the Temperature and Exposure Time settings are within the proper levels in relation to your current Black Shading Calibration.

While the camera first boots up, Cal T is in yellow and reads "T-" Once the camera is fully warmed up to Cal temperature, it turns green and reads "T". For Overheating Conditions, it turns red and reads "T+".

The "E" setting will change to red, and read "E-" when you change the Shutter Speed time to anything below 1/8. It will stay green and display "E" for anything up to 1/144, and turn red and display “E+” for anything above 1/192.

These results were from an example after calibrating to 800ISO, 23.98FPS and 1/48Shutter Speed
 
Thanks for starting this conversation but I am finding it a bit difficult to understand.

Specifically, does a red T+ mean that the camera is operating outside of blackshade calibration parameters?

In relation to the E settings, I really don't understand what that means in relation to calibration.

Also, what are the implications if it is operating outside the parameters? Does it just mean a bit more noise in the image?

Cheers
 
Unfortunately this is one of those settings that is a great idea but I am afraid will set off people paranoia meters.

These settings give you the optimal calibration for the sensor according to the shutter and frame rate settings.

The best news is that you can set the camera to several different modes and black shade each time.

Then you can name each black shade and apply them from an SSD when you are in the RED on either of these settings. Installing a black shading temporarily is a really nice feature of this new build.

It's probably a good idea to buy a 48GB SSD and just load it with Black Shading calibrations for all the different frame rates and temperatures and then load and apply them as needed.

David
 
David Battistella said:
It's probably a good idea to buy a 48GB SSD and just load it with Black Shading calibrations for all the different frame rates and temperatures and then load and apply them as needed.
David
Click to expand...

Not sure it can be done at a price point that makes sense but I would love to be able to load different firmwares, key mappings, black shades, etc onto a low capacity RedMag for quick field adjustments. I'm suggesting a 1GB $100 maintenance mag, as the $500 48GB mag is a bit pricey for such usage.

Cheers - #19
 
Blair S. Paulsen said:
Not sure it can be done at a price point that makes sense but I would love to be able to load different firmwares, key mappings, black shades, etc onto a low capacity RedMag for quick field adjustments. I'm suggesting a 1GB $100 maintenance mag, as the $500 48GB mag is a bit pricey for such usage.

Cheers - #19
Click to expand...

Blair

i completely agree and have suggested this many times. This build and the ones going forward are where this is really needed.

I really miss the SD slot that the RED one had for this.

While we are at it it would be nice to have a compact +1 module with 2ch audio with TA3 connectors.

I miss having the 4 on the Red One.

David
 
Strange Cal. readings on hot set !

Strange Cal. readings on hot set !

Hi,
I'm currently on a shoot for a high profile watch company, we're shooting indoors, close-ups, with a lot of light (12K + 3x5K + 1x2K + 2x1K and some...). That obviously generates a lot of heat. I did a black calibration before the shoot started, leaving the camera on for most of the day before doing so.
Today that camera got really hot, Temp. reading was 46/65 at one point and Cal. was reading T+ in RED and E in green (I think). I put a fan on the camera, the Temp. reading is back down to 42/56 and Cal. is now reading T+ in YELLOW (not T-) and E in GREEN, and at some point in between, it read T- in YELLOW, so the meaning of these Cal. settings is not clear to me at all. Either they do not signify what is suggested above, or they're giving me wrong readings.

Cheers,
Damien

PS This is on an Epic-X (No 296) running beta build 4.0.8
 
hi Damien,

this is what i got from Nick a second ago:

Every time you do a calibration, the camera stores the temperature and the exposure time along with it. This is also shown in the filename when you export it.

When the calibration is applied, either at startup or later by you, the camera indicates the delta between the current settings and the settings stored in the calibration

T+ means the current temperature is above the calibration temperature. The traffic light colors green, yellow and red indicate how far you are off.

Please keep in mind that this is in indicator and not an absolute good/bad display. Yellow might be too much delta for certain scenes, but might be totally acceptable in others depending on what you are doing or if you use noise reduction later, etc.

It's also important to note that nothing here is an absolute reading in relationship to the camera (e.g. not linked to boot up or absolute exposure time), but always in relationship to the current calibration. So, if you start a camera that's already warm it might go to green immediately.
 
Damien,

you could do a calibration right before a break (lunch or whatever) and then have the calibration for when the camera is at that max temp, or the temp you are shooting at most of the day. I tend to let a camera warm up for 20 min to a half hour before doing a calibration, especially going into long, hot shooting days.

David
 
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