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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Dual System Record Instructions for SD 744t and Scarlet/Epic (how to use timecode)

Generally you can rejam every 4 hours or so and still be frame accurate.
+1.

Mike, Also I connected and disconnected the cables while everything was on with out any problems. When you do power down the camera, you need to redo the tc when you power the camera back on.
 
Excellent. That's without a separate lockit box/timecode box, right? Like going directly from the 744t to the Scarlet/Sync port via cable (RED 4pin lemo to bnc + bnc to 5-pin SD Lemo) and waiting for the "TC" indicator to go green?

Honestly, with the dynamic of this particular shoot, I'll be able re-jam essentially whenever I want (obviously not mid-take, but theoretically any other time, as frequently as I want without completely pissing off the sound guy).) It also looks like I might have a few hours with the sound guy prior to shooting, so if that's the case I'll be able to check. I just didn't want to go in blind and/or accidentally fry my camera because of my own negligence.

So, to be clear, it's hotswappable (no risk of frying) and as long as I'm semi-diligent (ever 3-4 hours and/or after every reboot) I should remain in sync without separate lockit kit?
 
Excellent. That's without a separate lockit box/timecode box, right? Like going directly from the 744t to the Scarlet/Sync port via cable (RED 4pin lemo to bnc + bnc to 5-pin SD Lemo) and waiting for the "TC" indicator to go green?

Honestly, with the dynamic of this particular shoot, I'll be able re-jam essentially whenever I want (obviously not mid-take, but theoretically any other time, as frequently as I want without completely pissing off the sound guy).) It also looks like I might have a few hours with the sound guy prior to shooting, so if that's the case I'll be able to check. I just didn't want to go in blind and/or accidentally fry my camera because of my own negligence.

So, to be clear, it's hotswappable (no risk of frying) and as long as I'm semi-diligent (ever 3-4 hours and/or after every reboot) I should remain in sync without separate lockit kit?
Marc is the expert so i cant guarantee disconnecting wont hurt anything, though for me it has never been a problem. I also do the slate, to verify the frame. Btw ... To do how your saying it (to connect the 744t to the scarlet directly) I needed three some what weird cables that I listed the part numbers at the start ... , the one between the 744t and the NBC, bnc to BNC connector, and the bnc to scarlet cable.
 
Generally you can rejam every 4 hours or so and still be frame accurate.
That's my opinion as well. But beware of power downs and reboots. Having a timecode slate to verify sync is very handy, and at least that will give the editor a clue in case the camera has a momentary hiccup and loses a few frames.

It is true that you need an arsenal of different connectors. Lemo 5-pin was the standard timecode in/out jack on audio gear for years, just as found on the Sound Devices, Zaxcom, and Fostex portable decks:

744t_right_panel.jpg


I much prefer the 5-pin Lemo [upper left], which is what Red used on the original Red One (and Arri still uses on the Alexa). But different manufacturers go in different directions, and you have to be prepared for anything in this business.
 
I know this is an old post but anyone experience a Dcode SB-T with a 788T and Scarlet?

What cables do we need?

Will the RED 3BNC/LEMO do?

On the interim, we picked up a 4pin to 5pin Lemo from Trew Audio Toronto.

I guess jam every hour and we should be good?
 
On the sound device I have a ambient to BNC connector, that can just plug into the generators BNC connector. Time code on red and sd, lasted for more then 8 hours without drift, so I wouldn't think you'd need to rejam. Also I think the sbt is a nice unit, so I would just keep that plugged into the red. I btw moved to a prores workflow when I am dealing with sound, so don't do it the same anymore as I said in this thread(my new way is closer to what Marc suggests but with a bunch of BNC connectors going to prores recorders & stuff).
 
I guess jam every hour and we should be good?
No need to jam every hour, but jam every time the camera powers down, or maybe every 4-5 hours and I think you'll be OK. Ideally, though, you should get a Lockit box or a Denecke SB-T box, jam sound to that, and then connect the box to the camera. That will generally go for 8 hours with no problem.
 
Thanks everyone that builds my confidence :)
 
FYI, Audio guy got me a 4pin to 5pin Lemo to tie me over.

We were drifting almost 10 seconds after an hour.

Anyone know if were doing something wrong?

We jam via cable and see the TC green but then disconnect after visual check.

We were doing this with an A and B camera.
 
To add to to above post, the TC goes green at connection then goes away after disconnection.

Is this correct?
 
Since Im on this topic, the 4pin to 5pin Lemo cable seems to be working on set.

I dont see any of the drifts however there was some instances where they forgot to jam period.

Ill be using the scratch for that.

On another note I placed all R3D/WAV from day one in a Media Pool Resolve and by right clicking on one clip and selecting Sync with TC it seems to sync all the clips that are present with related audio.

I thought that was nice compared to going one on one in other apps.

Also another thing, PluralEyes (latest) does not work with any of the R3Ds I have period.
 
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