Welcome to our community

Be a part of something great, join today!

Log in
  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

DSMC v6.0.23 Release

Those new stills modes are things a lot of people will LOVE you for. So here is the take-away message I'm getting: as far as digital capture is concerned, still cameras are pretty much dead, and it's only a matter of time until they are all DSMCs. The only thing RED doesn't offer: low price; Leica sized body.

Nikon wants $10,000 for its new super telephoto lenses, and quite frankly, that sort of shit is already out-dated. Despite being a film guy, I can tell that companies like Nikon and Canon are basically stuck half-way between 35mm and digital. They think we need fast lenses because they're stuck at a time when the best slide films for sports photographers was Fujichrome 100. Sony is doing for stills what RED is doing for motion. Already, Sony's newest full-frame camera has a stabilised sensor and 4K in two modes. Wow. Not quite up to proper cinema standard, but heck, people are using iPhones for HD capture, so things are changing rapidly.

If you want to progress, do it properly. RED, moreso even than Sony, actually believes in it and is not afraid to supersede (and upgrade) its own products.
 
Fantastic! Incredible improvements. Almost like a new camera.
Is there any chance this feature will be for Epic at a point is is it a hardware limitation:
  • Clip viewer and thumbnail support (DRAGON only)
/Andreas
 
Trent,
In stills mode how is time lapse effected? Like a stills camera, can you call up, for example, a four second exposure or is it still necessary to use frame processing and frame summing?
 
steve green said:
Trent,
In stills mode how is time lapse effected? Like a stills camera, can you call up, for example, a four second exposure or is it still necessary to use frame processing and frame summing?
Click to expand...

We didn't make any changes in regard to time lapse. You must still manually configure frame processing.
 
Trent Lillehaugen said:
We didn't make any changes in regard to time lapse. You must still manually configure frame processing.
Click to expand...


Would it be possible in future builds to allow time lapse settings on an Epic Dragon to operate just like all still cameras in regard to slow shutter? The frame processing logic is not very intuitive.
 
steve green said:
Would it be possible in future builds to allow time lapse settings on an Epic Dragon to operate just like all still cameras in regard to slow shutter? The frame processing logic is not very intuitive.
Click to expand...

Electronic shutter on the EPIC is limited to the exposure of 1/2 second. The electronic shutter can not be open any longer than that. If you want DSLR style you need to use a DSLR that allows for bulb mode. These modes are very intuitive if you take the time to learn how they function and the results are not exactly what you might do with a DSLR but you can do some things that are pretty cool.

and yes. you can record moving stars with EPIC in this mode.


averaging01.jpg


averaging02.jpg




averaging04.jpg


David
 
Last edited:
Exposer of 1sec is posble with epic Dragon :-)

New showreel on www.camlight.nl
 
Yes, 1 second is possible.

Trent Lillehaugen said:
You can use frame summing to increase the exposure length beyond the normal 1 second limit. If you set the Frame Processing Mode to "Frame Summing" and Frames to Process to 16 you can achieve up to 16 second exposures (denoted as 1/16 fps). Of course you will probably want a shutter angle of 360 to simulate a continuous exposure. Note: while in preview (before you hit record) you will be seeing the pre-summed frames - that is, the exposure will not match your final exposure and the frames will be updating much faster. Once you start recording and wait for the first complete summed frame you will see the actual exposure on the monitors.

To setup a frame every 30 seconds set your Recording Mode to "Internal Timelapse Timer" and set the Interval to 30 seconds.
Click to expand...
 
Karim D. Ghantous said:
Those new stills modes are things a lot of people will LOVE you for. So here is the take-away message I'm getting: as far as digital capture is concerned, still cameras are pretty much dead, and it's only a matter of time until they are all DSMCs. The only thing RED doesn't offer: low price; Leica sized body.
Click to expand...
I have been using my Scarlet for motion and stills like a DSLR since day 1, often with just the side-handle attached for run&gun. I did put it on a strap and all. I can pack a essential kit into one Lowepro bag. It's doable and worth the compromises - hell i have so much more here than just a DSLR! We are close and Weapon will be even closer.

I made my own presets for stills, used the S&M-switch all the time. But the new features are fantastic and so much better. I got my camera upgraded two times last month. First the Dragon-Upgrade and now the new stills-mode. :) Thank you RED!

Could it be smaller and lighter, yes. Sometimes i wish i had the power of this camera in the body of a 5D. It doesn't have to be a Leica M9 or A7*. Or how about the formfactor of a Phase One XF? That being said i like the RED formfactor and modularity a lot, don't know if a AllInOne-body is what i really want.

The things that still make me use other cameras for stills are different, it comes down to autofocus, battery-lifetime (+drain) and storage - weight and size are coming after that.
 
Last edited:
quote_icon.png
Originally Posted by Trent Lillehaugen
You can use frame summing to increase the exposure length beyond the normal 1 second limit. If you set the Frame Processing Mode to "Frame Summing" and Frames to Process to 16 you can achieve up to 16 second exposures (denoted as 1/16 fps). Of course you will probably want a shutter angle of 360 to simulate a continuous exposure. Note: while in preview (before you hit record) you will be seeing the pre-summed frames - that is, the exposure will not match your final exposure and the frames will be updating much faster. Once you start recording and wait for the first complete summed frame you will see the actual exposure on the monitors.

To setup a frame every 30 seconds set your Recording Mode to "Internal Timelapse Timer" and set the Interval to 30 seconds.



I'll give this a try, thanks, all......
 
I could not find in the manual what the maximum flash sync "shutter speed" or exposure duration is, any info would be appreciated. Also what is the maximum safe voltage on the flash sync port on the DSMC sidehandle? Some DSLR's are only safe to 5 volts, whereas older film cameras can safely handle 350 volts? Perhaps someone from Red can chime in please. (I do have a 30 year old Metz flash that is high voltage)
 
i installed beta one few weeks ago,had to downgrade back v5. after getting many errors.Now i upgraded to Release v6. and still seeing so many bugs.First of all my canon lenses were showing distance and info on V5. but still no luck at v6.0.23
The most disturbing problem is getting VERTICAL GHOST LINE just in the middle of frame.It doesnt affect raw data however distracting me too much while shooting.
Remember this bug from few years ago.Have to restart camera few times to fix it.
 
External power is still required. Element Technica now has a 2 pin lemo to Hirose cable in their store for this. The fix that went in this build was for a handling the lens data on the Cabrio 14-35 as its format was slightly different than the 19-90
 
One thing I just used in the previous build to setup for 4k extract, and now isn't working is the user guides for me. It won't let me set my action safe to anything but 95% scale or adjust the offset. Actually can't scale or adjust any of the frame guides.
 
Derek Morrison said:
One thing I just used in the previous build to setup for 4k extract, and now isn't working is the user guides for me. It won't let me set my action safe to anything but 95% scale or adjust the offset. Actually can't scale or adjust any of the frame guides.
Click to expand...

I don't see this problem. What do you mean by "won't let me set..."? Do the numbers change in the dialog? Do they snap back to the old settings at some point?

Edit:
Derek provided more information - and I am able to reproduce the problem. We will address it in a future release.
 
Canon Mount definitely not communicating. Tested on a 70-200 and 16-35. Both unrecognised. A previous user mentioned the ability to toggle the switches on the 70-200 and that did work for aperture, but nothing for stabilisation.

EDIT :
So I downgraded back to an earlier release and the same thing, UNTIL I pressed the "rediscover" option in the menus. It picked them both up after a reset.
In the middle of a job, so will wait till after it to reconfirm this release with the "rediscover" option.
Just wondering though RED team , is this a glitch or a necessary step when upgrading?

Thanks as always.
 
Last edited:
Justin Batchelor said:
Canon Mount definitely not communicating. Tested on a 70-200 and 16-35. Both unrecognised. A previous user mentioned the ability to toggle the switches on the 70-200 and that did work for aperture, but nothing for stabilisation.

EDIT :
So I downgraded back to an earlier release and the same thing, UNTIL I pressed the "rediscover" option in the menus. It picked them both up after a reset.
In the middle of a job, so will wait till after it to reconfirm this release with the "rediscover" option.
Just wondering though RED team , is this a glitch or a necessary step when upgrading?

Thanks as always.
Click to expand...

Justin, I am still having problems with this firmware and Canon Mount. Yes, only fiddling around the stabilisation button and AF makes the lens readable, and stabilisation work, but then it all goes wrong and lens iris gets stuck and you can only get control of it by removing and attaching the lens once again. I know of other people having problems with the Canon mount as well, but they have not posted here. I just sent a log to RED as the camera also shut itself off with a fully charged redvolt. The iris control also jumps erratically, say from f4 to f64 and then shows f1.3 as an option when using the 24-105 which has f4 as it's widest. Anyone at RED can verify that they have been able to reproduce this issue and that they are working on it?
 
I had trouble with this release and the 5inch display: sometimes during magnify the monitor goes black.
I disconnect and re-connect the cable and everything works. The problem is not the cable (tested two different RED cables).
Never happened with the previous release.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top