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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

DSMC build 6.2.44 + REDCINE- X Build 39

removed the mount and re-installed it. Once I rebooted the camera updated the Nikon Mount firmware and did a reboot.
Now all is good and working as it should.
 
roryhinds said:
removed the mount and re-installed it. Once I rebooted the camera updated the Nikon Mount firmware and did a reboot.
Now all is good and working as it should.
Click to expand...

Hi Rory,
Thats interesting. What Nikon lenses do you have? Do they all work now?

Thanks!
André
 
Mike are you still having issues with your Epic MX or has it been resolved?
 
Are you talking to me, Aaron? I was merely responding to Thomas' issue... In the past (like FW3.xx) I would have cold boot issues, where pushing the power button on the monitor would cause it to boot up (figured Thomas might be having a similar problem).
 
On my CF Weapon under 6.1.47 I was getting boot times of 41 seconds with Auto-Calibration, 33 seconds with no calibration. Under 6.2.44 that's been reduced to 30sec/22sec respectively. Also getting 23 seconds with a manual sensor calibration. MUCH BETTER! Thanks, RED!

An Auto Calibration still takes me about 34 minutes, and a manual one takes 4m16s. (Oh, and everyone please calibrate their sensors! I just turned them off for a sec out of curiosity).

Oddly, my Adaptive Fan setting seems to default to 44 degrees upon each startup - forgetting that I prefer around 40. Wonder if that's a bug or if I really need to re-read how User Presets work!
 
Got a couple RCXp recommendations -- I'm pretty sure they're doable.

1.) False Colour Overlay -- based off the metadata/RCXp settings obviously... No doubt the scopes are great (and the standard), but I think having a false colour overlay is better (and more forward thinking), especially for dailies or when using RCX without having a proper monitor. Just tap a quick key and see the false colour overlay, make your FLUT adjustment to dial in an objectively correct skin tone (for example), and then take it off and render out. It'd be a more effective use of the RedGamma settings too.

2.) Double-Click Spot Zoom -- I asked about this a couple years ago, but it'd be so awesome to have a double-click zoom-to-100% function that zooms in on where you're cursor is. As it stands, you can zoom-in dynamically or with the drop-down menu, but it always goes to dead-centre, and then you have to click+scroll to find the part of the image that you wanted to look at. It'd be great if I could just put the mouse pointer over someone's eyes, double-click and be at their eye 100% (to check focus or colour or whatever), and then double click again to zoom-out back to "Fit Both".

Feel free to call them "MikeMode" and "PdotZoom"...

OH, and for firmware, has there been any update on that in-camera DRX enable/disable toggle? The further things move away from MX, the less likely I see it actually happening so I just wanted to know if it's still being looked at or not.
 
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+1 to MikeMode!

I've always wanted to be able to throw on one of the tool modes onto footage that's in RCX. Something like edge detect so the dit can double check focus in the field or gioscope to help check/troubleshoot exposures after the fact.

At first I thought this could only be done live. However, I recently noticed that you can turn these tool overlays on while watching playback in camera. If it is possible to do in camera, I really hope it's possible to do in RCX!
 
Marcus Friedlander said:
+1 to MikeMode!

I've always wanted to be able to throw on one of the tool modes onto footage that's in RCX. Something like edge detect so the dit can double check focus in the field or gioscope to help check/troubleshoot exposures after the fact.

At first I thought this could only be done live. However, I recently noticed that you can turn these tool overlays on while watching playback in camera. If it is possible to do in camera, I really hope it's possible to do in RCX!
Click to expand...

You can do this with a LUT. Here's a link to a project that contains some 17x17x17 LUTs: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/je9090j0n4w6b46/AAAaNbJmFOK7WStgsVsRltpya?dl=0

In it you will find a python script (which uses pylut, downloadable at http://pythonhosted.org/pylut/) that generates LUT files.

I made my best guesses as to what the RGB GIO Scope colors were. In this context, RGB means the colors of the purple, dark blue, light blue, green, yellow, etc., that are the false colors of the GIO scope.

Min reports the GIO value based on the minimum RGB values of the sensor. In this case, RGB means the actual RGB values as passed to the LUT (which is post-ISO, post color-space, and post-gamma corrections). By seeing the MIN values, you can see what is the worst-case scenario for sensor starvation (or, alternatively, best case about what's not clipped).

Max reports the GUI values based on the maximum RGB values of the sensor. This shows the worst-case scenario for highlight clipping (or, alternatively, best case about light in shadow areas).

Mono reports the GUI values based on a standard monochromatic calculation:

gioPoint = int(15 * (0.2126 * indices01[r] + 0.7152 * indices01[g] + 0.0722 * indices01))
Click to expand...


The python script generates 17x17x17 LUTs, but it could easily generate 33x33x33 for the truly crazy among you.

Enjoy!
 
Thanks for the response Michael!

I'm not very knowledgeable when it comes to script so I apologize in advance if this question seems silly. But is there way to integrate that natively into RCX? Or do I need to generate the LUT per clip? Also, does it update in real time as the clip plays? Or is it more for still frames?

Thanks for sharing this with the community!
 
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You don't need to generate a LUT per clip. Just fire up RCX, load some footage, point the 3D LUT browser at the Mono LUT, and then turn 3D LUT on and off for GIO Scope goodness.

I only published the Python source code in case (1) you want to make your own LUTs (because you have a different concept of RGB->Monochromatic reduction, you have a better idea about flagging potential noise spots, highlight clips, etc), (2) you might have better ideas about what are the actual RGB false color values, or (3) something I hadn't even thought of yet. As is, it's just about as easy as turning on and off high-pass sharpening, unsharp masking, alchemy color effects, or anything else.
 
Awesome! Thanks for the clarification! And I definitely trust your educated opinion on this matter much more than my uneducated one haha.

I'm sitting in a terminal right now waiting for my flight back to LA, but when I get home I will try it out and report back! Thank you again for your help!
 
James Codeglia said:
On my CF Weapon under 6.1.47 I was getting boot times of 41 seconds with Auto-Calibration, 33 seconds with no calibration. Under 6.2.44 that's been reduced to 30sec/22sec respectively. Also getting 23 seconds with a manual sensor calibration. MUCH BETTER! Thanks, RED!

An Auto Calibration still takes me about 34 minutes, and a manual one takes 4m16s. (Oh, and everyone please calibrate their sensors! I just turned them off for a sec out of curiosity).

Oddly, my Adaptive Fan setting seems to default to 44 degrees upon each startup - forgetting that I prefer around 40. Wonder if that's a bug or if I really need to re-read how User Presets work!
Click to expand...

Adaptive mode will target the temperature used when your calibration map was created.
 
Anyone having issues on DSMC v1 bodies with Adaptive preview quiet record? My Epic-X Dragon body is running way louder with adaptive/quiet @ 65 and doesn't go super quiet like it did on the previous build, when I hit record. When I hit record the fan stays around 45% and doesn't drop to the usual 15% Usually the calibration would let the camera go to 75 before ramping up, but it seems like the fans are kicking in to keep it at 70c. Anyone having similar results?

Edit: Testing more and Adaptive @ 70 is over all quieter than Adaptive/quiet@ 65

Adaptive @ 70c is stabilizing at 40%
Adaptive/quiet @ 65c stabilizes at 45%

Both modes won't let the temp go past 70c.
 
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TheBied said:
Adaptive mode will target the temperature used when your calibration map was created.
Click to expand...
I was confused by this as well. I would like for the camera to remember where I sat the temperature, regardless of what temperature I blackshaded. I could be shooting in a really hot area and wanting to keep the temp down...
do I remember correctly that the Dragons remembered the temperature you set them at?
 
OH SNAP, I just updated to 6.2.44 -- Did you guys default MX to 1.00 DRX or am I imagining things?!

EDIT: Also, were you able to set the "Sharpness", "Denoise", and "Detail" settings in cameras before? If so, where?
 
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Sadly, I have realized that Red will never deliver functionality to any Nikon mount. The issues with the Nikon mounts have been going on for at least a few years - possibly longer. I have many Nikon lenses and It is absolutely infuriating that the problems with Red's own Nikon mount have been so longstanding. My lenses all have rings to control iris on the lens, so if Red could simply find a way to make it so that their own mount and firmware didn't force these lenses wide open, that would be most excellent. However, I've been back and forth on this issue with Red, and it is pretty clear that a working solution will never happen. It's extremely dissapointing and for me personally, it will probably serve as the last straw. I simply will not invest any more money in any Red product until such time that the company can deliver a firmware and lens mount that are compatible so that I may use my many beloved Nikon Mount Lenses. If they could offer a Nikon mount WITHOUT electronics, it would solve my problem, though I realize those with newer Nikon glass will still be out of luck. With all due Respect:
Red, please please please, at long last, manufacture a Nikon solution devoid of these ridiculous issues. I may well consider removing the small arm that controls iris inside the mount as a last ditch effort to restore the function of my camera system. I must say though, that for such an expensive lens mount, that type of DIY solution shouldn't ever have been necessitated. Has anyone used the wooden camera mounts? I'm curious to know if they have any issues.
 
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