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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Difference in HDMI cables?

Brandon Fraley

Brandon Fraley

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FYI, in case you haven't heard of them, I buy all my video cables from http://www.monoprice.com/ They're dirt cheap, have good service, and a cool overnight shipping offer for CA residents.

ANYWAY, I'm looking to buy a long HDMI cable and I was wondering if anyone can tell me the notable differences between these three that might explain the prices:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10240&cs_id=1024004&p_id=3663&seq=1&format=2

http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10240&cs_id=1024006&p_id=2841&seq=1&format=2

http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10240&cs_id=1024009&p_id=2529&seq=1&format=2

Thanks! :)
 
I beleive that the $13 one is that expensive just because it's Category 2 certified (probably has a little more shielding than the others), and the $14 one isn't , but it is longer. They should all give you the same picture though - it's just that the $13 one has a net jacket and so on, which would make it more durable (but stiffer)...
 
The first link -- it's 15ft. long, CL2 so it's approved to run inside walls (no conduit) and it has the net jacket, which is the mesh or webbing around the outside like a sleeve, so it pulls through conduit and tight spaces easier (theoretically).

The second link has no net jacket. It's still CL2 and has the gold plated connectors, it's 10ft. longer. It's also 26AWG, so the wires are just a tiny bit smaller.

Third link - 28AWG, so the thinnest wire of all three links, non CL2 rated. Most likely they're using the ferrites due to the lesser shielding and thinner wire. Should still work fine.

24 and 28 AWG isn't going to make much difference on shorter runs. On longer runs, the thicker gauge is better for reliable signal transmission, but also requires more power to drive it. You will want a booster on any HDMI cable over 30ft. long. With a proper active booster, you can drive HDMI over copper up to 200~250ft.

Do be careful with smaller gauge HDMI and DVI cables and long runs. I have actually "cooked" some HDMI cable connectors when they draw too much power over a longer run - usually the 28AWG ones, so I no longer buy 28AWG if it's longer than about 10ft. They don't scorch or have noticeable problems exactly, just the cables stop working one day... Some of the connectors I've taken apart have shown the weaker solder connections on the smaller wire are pretty easy to pop if they're slightly overloaded on a consistent basis. This can happen without a booster -- often happening when driven from nicer AV receiver equipment that tries to keep the output power up. Happens with multiple brands, and the monoprice cables have been some of the most reliable ones out there for all the AV installations I've done (lots). But a word of caution -- always test long cables before taking the time to pull them through walls / conduits. It'll save you some time and a lot of headache. Typically if a cable is bad or will quickly go bad, it will show in metered test. Cables are supposedly factory tested, but I think most factories only spot-test random samples and shoddy wire connections can work loose during shipping / handling.
 
thanks guys. So if I don't plan to use a cable longer than 25', should I be safe from "cooking" anything?
 
You should be just fine, 99.95% of the time. :)

With the three different cables you linked to, it's hard to tell what you want to do with them. What is your application here? ...What will you be connecting to what with the cable, will the cable be in a wall, out in the open, etc.?
 
just from the camera to an HDTV, plus any other HDMI device i might need them for at home, but really it's just for preview from the camera.
 
Shouldn't be a problem. I'm running a Monoprice 25ft HDMI to DVI cable between my camera and monitor. It's the exact same cable as in your second link, but DVI on one end instead of HDMI. Works great. I think it could go 35ft just fine too.
 
I'm running a 35' Monoprice HDMI cable as well, and it works like a charm at 1080p24 as well as 1080i60

-sc
 
Can anybody post a link to a long (100ft) HDMI cable that works with the Red ? That would be terrific.

(just got one with a built in repeater. works well on some other appliances but unfortunately not with the red...)
 
Heavier gauge cables have lower resistance and less voltage drop over long runs, so current demand is lower and the connectors stay cooler. They also have better bandwidth so there is less signal degradation.

The ones we use for projector applications are 22 gauge and are available up to 200' lengths. For 1080p 60Hz 75 feet is maximum without a cable equalizer/booster.
 
for temporary runs, there are hdmi/cat5 adapters. never had any experience with them.
i believe there are also HDMI/optical boxen.

Thicker gold plating would make a quality difference if many setup teardown cycles are anticipated. Overall ruggedness is a consideration also. Limpness might be better than extra strong if lots of labor is needed to coil/uncoil, etc.
 
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