Welcome to our community

Be a part of something great, join today!

  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Compact 1080p EFP cam

This is HUGELY needed...SMALL FORM FACTOR....even EPIC is heavy, and I will be shooting with GYROS....I need a 5d or less in weight with 2 Kenyon's on the bottom.....I am now going to try and hack my red as the "CMOS" board is connected via special connectors the the main boards.

this should be interesting. sourcing the connectors at the moment.
 
BTW opening up the R1 for the first time I found a lot of dirt....wonder how many more years of this dirt leaking in till things start to fry on the inside.....I do take care of my camera but it seems it's not "dirt" proof! :)
 
and here is the mate:

http://media.digikey.com/photos/Samtec Photos/QSH-090-01-L-D-A.jpg

hmmm..sure wonder if I could make a 3-6 foot cable out of this with just the camera "head" and carry the r1 body in a backpack etc for the worlds lightest 4k camera head.

30 wires per connector and 4 or 5 connectors total....it will be some work but I don't see why I could not make this.
 
The high bandwidth signals won't go that far.

GREAT to know! so what would it take to make them travel that far?

and how far will they travel right now as is with a longer cable? 1 foot more? 2 foot?
 
Im gearing up for a project that requires I shoot like I would with my Canon 5d..just the camera with 2 Kenyon ks2 gyros on the bottom of it.

SO I need a camera head that is 2lb or so...and I REALLY don't want to use the 5d(image sucks) and am willing to make this happen any way I can.

Need the help though to get from "here are the connectors" to a finished unit that will work....any help MUCH appreciated along the way...for example:

If the signals will not travel that far....what do we need to do to get them to travel that far? amplifier?

I understand this has not been done already but I would have a hard time hearing "no it can't be done" ...I will find a way. even all the new RED cameras are not going to be light enough unless they weigh in at 2 lb or so.
 
red should not even think about building a new camera, before they not able to get those epic x, s, and all the scarlets in the field.
 
Now have an Epic...

Still too heavy. NEED SMALLER VERSION...

maybe try same thing with this version of RED camera?

ANyone know of a way to get the SENSOR and mount ONLY out into it's own shell/box for gyro shooting handheld light weight work?
 
ENG stands for Electronic News Gathering. EFP stands for Electronic Field Production. Both are usually used when referring to...on the fly/run and gun style shooting.
 
This is a six year old thread.
Since a time kapsule has been opened, it might be interesting to check the current situation.

The requirements include:
  • 2/3” to 1” sensor size range priority (due to picture quality/practicality compromise)
  • essential I/O (SDI/HDMI, XLR in, headphone out)
  • compact form factor
  • 1080p minimum from properly scaled higher resolution single sensor or 3x1080p sensors
  • raw recording or proper RGB codec (10bit 4:2:2 at minimum)
  • practicality (physical handling, shooting/operation, workflow)
  • sturdiness/build quality
  • proper built-in adjustable monitor (preferrably 4-5” range)
  • built in NDs
  • can be held by its body and mounted on a tripod without any rigs
  • having buttons and rotary knobs/dials
  • essential quick access camera controls
  • if shooting strictly RGB codec - white balance, custom gammas, gain, additional color tweaking preferrable
  • body design not inherited from a device designed to be glued to the face for capturing one still frame
Candidates chosen by some of the factors from the list:

Sony PDW-200

Design approach - compact broadcast camera

+ 3x 1/2” sensors, camera controls, I/O, monitor placement, build quality, NDs, sturdiness
- size grown to slightly less practical, news gathering codec

Ikonoskop A-cam DII

Design approach - compact 16mm cinema camera

+ picture quality, recording quality, shutter and motion blur, build quality, size, I/O, sturdiness
- no monitor, no NDs, needs a rig, all-round usage practicality

BMCC

Design approach - affordable larger sensor high quality imaging

+ picture quality, recording quality, sensor size, compactness, monitor size, price
- MDS*, rolling shutter, field sturdiness, no NDs, needs a rig - and a tripod

Digital Bolex

Design approach - Bolex digital replacement

+ picture quality, recording quality, price, size, sturdiness
- MDS*, no NDs, “home video shaky cam” look built-in due to ergonomics, comes with a bell-bottoms & sideburns package

JVC
GY-HMQ10

Design approach - multi-purpose concept

+ Picture resolution, temporal resolution, size, camera controls, shooting practicality, I/O, price,
- 1/2.3” sensor, thin codec, no NDs, workflow practicality

RED Scarlet 2/3”

Design approach - 16mm replacement

+ picture quality, recording quality, sturdiness, compact form factor
- ditched, else redundant



So...six years later, has the quest ended ?

No.



* MDS – Monitor Deviation Syndrome – started through a mutated gene from an offspring between a stills and a motion camera, which spread amongst many poor cameras around the world and mutated further. Most commonly manifests as inappropriate placement of the monitor on the camera body, making many shooting scenarios a challenge and camera left with the feeling of insufficiency to its shooter and tendencies of self shut-down. Some other manifestations include insufficient monitor size and monitor's fixed position. Treatment of the syndrome includes continous time spent on building rigs for additional monitors, energy spent on building patience and adapting the shooting to the camera’s issue and words of incouragement towards the camera regarding the issue.
 
I see a lot of use of a 16mm'ish cam but preferably with 3k RAW capacity ike the original Scarlet. 3k for 3k was just "right"

But I and the manufactures do not seem to agree... :)

But honestly, if I was looking at "need" and not "drool", I'd much rather have taken a 2/3" smaller formfactor Scarlet at the moment, than a Dragon upgrade...

Hey... Wait... I may have answered my own (implied) question, right?
 
Back
Top