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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Cleaning marks...

some cleaning marks remain no matter what an ac may do it on purpose.. not even "the hoff".. ehehehehe
 
filmmaker's gang said:
some cleaning marks remain no matter what an ac may do it on purpose.. not even "the hoff".. ehehehehe
Click to expand...

I worked many years as 1st and 2nd ac. Never would I have dreamed of putting a lens with cleaning marks onto the camera.

With the proper lens paper, cleaning fluid and circluar wiping there should really not be any marks on the front element.
 
I think the question refers to coating cleaning marks left by bits of dirt trapped under lens tissue, or dry tissue rubbed too hard.

If they are on the rear element of the lens, eh, not so much, maybe a little less contrast depending on how bad it is. If it's on the front, same thing but you may see it when there is a lens flare, more so on wider lenses.

You can get lenses recoated, it is several hundred bucks, but if it's part of a set, they may not match any more.

Nick
 
The Pancro cleaning fluid is the best and I prefer to use a nice soft synthetic micro-fiber shammy, traps the dust away from the lens instead of pressing it up against it. Cleaning marks are much more common on older lenses with softer coatings and more miles, but rarely if ever will they show up in an image.
 
Yes, Panchro and a Zeiss cloth or Luminex.
Wash the cloths frequently (end of day, NO SOAP JUST WATER) and don't hang on to them too long. Have production buy you a new one every other job or change once a week on a movie.
Tissue is my second choice as the fibers seem randomly hard and I'm fearful that they scratch (probably an unfounded fear) The Rosco tissue is pretty good, less fiber shed than the Kodak. CSC in New York has a "house brand" that performs well. Not sure who make them.
Sometimes repeated cleaning is necessary, and I think that's what the poster meant by "cleaning marks". The first go-around did not really get all the oil or whatever off... just apply a bit more Panchro and try again.
If the lens is damaged from cleaning, that's big trouble. New front elements are costly and older vintage lenses may not have new old stock to take from. ;(
Cheers,
Harry
 
I use lint free Kimwipes with a bottle of lens cleaning fluid. The wipes seem hard and rough, but with the right method that I found out from others, it's the perfect lens cleaner. They're used in lens shops, sold at places like Filmtools, etc.

I think wipes are a little better in that you use a fresh one every time. Although you can wash the cloth, you'll probably be using it all day without washing it and during that time, you're risking picking up that one bit of dust that scratches the lens. A little picky, yes, but possible.

The method I use is to first blow off any dust (not canned air). I then roll a sheet of Kimwipe up like a handrolled cigarette to stiffen it up to make it more useable. Then I tear it in half. The tearing creates softer tips that act like a tiny sweeper. I then drip a few drops of the cleaning fluid on the torn tip which softens it up even more.

What I end up with is a firm, small stick with a moist, soft tip for cleaning. Then with dozens of small little circular motions and two cleaning sticks later, the lens is absolutely pristine without any cleaning marks.
 
lol... If accidentally hitting the front element with the nozzle is a concern, I recommend you re-evaluate the skill (or lack thereof) of your tech.

And again, if blowing air on a lens is going to adjust alignment of elements, what do you think shipping is going to do to them?

I don't really see a problem with canned air (for those without spastic hands.) In fact, I highly recommend canned air for blowing off large particles of grit before wiping a nice piece of glass. The last thing you want to do, no matter what you're using to wipe, is get a piece of dirt under that tissue and drag it all over your front element.
 
The chemicals in compressed air don't do you any good, either (just read the back of the can!). But there's some stuff it's tough to shift without it.

Hurricane blowers are $5 and last until your arthritis takes hold. Canned air goes for $11 a pop and will last you a week. Use both and you're set for a while.
 
lol. sorry about the canned air bit. those really no valid reason if it's just the lens... it's just something i do in general practice so i'm not tempted to grab the canned air to zap that irritating dust spot from inside the body and then ruin the sensor. i also don't like the occasional spraying of chemicals all over everything. anyway, the hurricane and kimwipes accomplish everything i need. the cost savings is a bonus.

i was using that black pen felt tip thingy for awhile. i liked it, but i knew i was just courting disaster so after it got messed up in my camera bag, i never picked up another one.
 
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