Camera operational temperature

[dennys bisogno]

Does operating range: 0°C to +40°C (32°F to 104°F) pertains to sensor temperature not core temperature, correct?

Many Thanks

 

[stu aull]

I presumed ambient air temp....
?
I would think once the camera is at operating temp, it's core is certainly warmer than the lower range you note.
Stu Aull
SX 199
Alaska

 

[Philip Lima]

Not sure what the exact specs mean... But, I've used Epics in everything from -25F to +125F with no issues at all.

 

[dennys bisogno]

Thanks guys,

The range numbers : 0°C to +40°C (32°F to 104°F) come from the Scarlet manual - the issue was the temp information on Scarlet display is "camera sensor andcore temperature in that order (xx/xxC)"

So is was not clear to me whether the range related to the core or sensor - BUT Stu, you assumption that it actually means room temperature is probably right.

THX

 

[Patrick Tresch]

125F (52C) really? Sensor gets crazy at 43C. How did you manage?

Pat

 

[Philip Lima]

We had no problems, it was only that hot for an hour or so, and we kept it in the shade the whole day as best we could. Most of the day it was 112-117F, which is still plenty hot! You can see what we shot here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbG6wLHQ_y8&list=UUN_B2-bdBtmAq-5TOEU63nQ&index=3

 

[dennys bisogno]

We had no problems, it was only that hot for an hour or so, and we kept it in the shade the whole day as best we could. Most of the day it was 112-117F, which is still plenty hot! You can see what we shot here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbG6wLHQ_y8&list=UUN_B2-bdBtmAq-5TOEU63nQ&index=3

Well Philip after seeing the environment you worked that footage and the temperatures you are indicating, I am no longer worry :yesnod:

 

[Erik Lundby]

I have used my Scarlet in -15C. At 3700m. The camera was out in the cold for more than one hour before we stared shooting. The EVF did need to heat up so the colours were produced correctly. But the camera worked really well. No issues with the sensor. One thing about working out in the cold is that the touch LCD will not work when it freezes. So to have a Redmote in backup so you can operate your camera is a great tips..

 

[Jeff Kilgroe]

Not sure what the exact specs mean... But, I've used Epics in everything from -25F to +125F with no issues at all.

+1

I'm also not sure on the specs, it's a very conservative range. The RED One had a better advertised range, well, it did the second time around after they re-tested and fixed a part for cold weather use in the early days. I have used Epic in the same temperature range as Philip. About -25F to over 120F. The LCD does not like the extreme cold, nor do peoples' fingers. I fix a chemical "hand warmer" packet to the back of the LCD, use a stylus, and use other techniques discussed around here for time to time. Bagging the camera to protect against blowing snow, dirt, etc.. can also provide a layer of thermal protection or act as a solar blanket. Had the camera running a few days last week at over 10,000ft elevation and temps hovering between -9F and -22F. One night was down to -34F, but neither we, nor the equipment, were exposed to the cold at that time.

Just when I think that using it in extreme cold is terrible, then 6 months later I'm in the Arizona desert and still wearing gloves because any metallic object that gets a few minutes of sun exposure will burn your fingers. heh... Actually that's a more challenging environment at times.

Only time I ever had any temperature issues with Epic was in the beginning, shortly after receiving my first Epic M. There was a firmware glitch that would cause the fan to stop operating and the temperature meter on the camera would start climbing and quickly turn red. It didn't seem to be very accurate as the rate of climb was very fast, not only that, but it would start out reporting 85F and climbing, even if the camera was cold-started at 50F. RED (thanks to Deanan) already had the bug isolated and fixed in an internal firmware build. Said the camera was never in any real danger, it was just glitchy firmware. He hooked me up with the beta build and saved the day... almost. we were also attempting to shoot 3D, but it was not to be so, as the cameras were not capable of syncing with one another at that time and we were lacking some equipment to work around the limitation.

 

[Michael Romano]

I wonder if humidity plays a major role in overheating because recently had 3x EPICs from OTTO on the Big Island of Hawaii which continuously overheated.

Shoot was indoors at not above 80º F ambient - It is winter over here

All handheld, round table discussion with VERY long takes which I attribute to the biggest killer factor.

This is all at sea level so humidity is pretty high.

Fans set to 25% while recording and AUTO when cut.

They couldn't keep all three up for a single take after the first 20 minutes.

In all fairness, OTTO has a whole bunch of bric-a-brak sandwiched to the bodies but its not like I haven't seen plenty of on-location builds create the same environment after FIZ, Power Distro, Lockit, Wireless etc... get strapped on.

Some people have had excellent luck, other not so much. Best bet is to be ready for a fail and that way production or the client know you're on it.

I use compressed air as an emergency cooler system. Blast the fan intake for a few seconds and that puppy will start right up but if you don't fix the causal environmental issue it will only last a take or two.

BTW - I too have shot in the Arizona desert. It is totally brutal out there but never had a heat issue - That's why I suggest being concerned about humidity.