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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Black Shading Nightmares

I don't have my Epic with me so can't do it but yes, I shot some tests in my home with my Tokina 11-16, cranked up to 3200 iso, I could see that the right side of my image had less contrast than the left side. Very noticeable when panning.
 
So is it the case that the camera needs 15 minutes to warm up in order to avoid this problem?
:(
 
I always blackshade before long (ish) exposure for timelapse with my R1 or I get hot pixels. Blackshading with the exposure set corrects this I've found.
Otherwise I don't blackshade, but time permitting my feeling is it would probably be wise to do it after the camera has been allowed to warm up for half an hour or more before first use in a morning

Im wondering, since we`re shooting raw, couldn't we shoot some lense cap on/black footage prior to shooting, and have the option to blackshade the r3d after capture using that as a black reference in post, or would most of the benefit be lost once the raw has already gone through the codec..
 
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So thirty minutes for a warm up, then twenty minutes for black shading?

Most fast moving productions want to get off their first shot within an hour. A DIT / 1st AC would probably have to come in early in order to build the camera and then do the black shading. This isn't always possible with turnovers and access to the equipment ( often on a camera truck brought to the set ).

How do people deal with this on narrative shoots in the mornings?
 
Jason Rudd said:
So thirty minutes for a warm up, then twenty minutes for black shading?

Most fast moving productions want to get off their first shot within an hour. A DIT / 1st AC would probably have to come in early in order to build the camera and then do the black shading. This isn't always possible with turnovers and access to the equipment ( often on a camera truck brought to the set ).

How do people deal with this on narrative shoots in the mornings?
Click to expand...

probably a blackshade every morning is overkill, but letting the camera warm up to better match the temperature when it was may be a good idea, but its not normally an issue. If you're changing shutter speed significantly though (ie, 1/50 -> 1 second), its definately a good idea to blackshade first though
 
conrad gaunt said:
probably a blackshade every morning is overkill, but letting the camera warm up to better match the temperature when it was may be a good idea, but its not normally an issue. If you're changing shutter speed significantly though (ie, 1/50 -> 1 second), its definately a good idea to blackshade first though
Click to expand...

Have you read the whole tread? Do you own or operate an epic? This is a real issue for some people..
 
Oh Dear,

Where could I start to think about trying to find an after the fact fix for some pretty gruesome black shading pixels? Can it be done? Is there a way of fixing it in post?

Thanks
 
Jason Rudd said:
So thirty minutes for a warm up, then twenty minutes for black shading?

Most fast moving productions want to get off their first shot within an hour. A DIT / 1st AC would probably have to come in early in order to build the camera and then do the black shading. This isn't always possible with turnovers and access to the equipment ( often on a camera truck brought to the set ).

How do people deal with this on narrative shoots in the mornings?
Click to expand...
I don't know, but it makes the improved boot up time compared to Red One a bit redundant :(
 
So my Epic was in the shop for over a week. Red said they replaced a component on the sensor board. Booted it up. Same exact issue. Gradient above 2000 until it warms up. The Red ONE does not nor has never had this issue. So what's the deal Epic owners? Do you all have this issue? Frankly, this flaw really sucks and I'm not happy about it at all... Camera was gone for a week and still the same issue? C'mon...
 
Rick,

I actually had the same issue (i tested it after reading your posts). I checked my firmware and I was at 2.0.2.

I just upgraded to 2.0.5 about 10 minutes ago, and tested again at 12800iso and its gone. hopefully its that simple for you.

good luck.
 
@Rick: never did see what build you're using - 2.0.2 or 2.0.5?
 
My simpleton test at Jonas' settings:
Build 2.0.2 = crap noise with big-time gradient from right to left
Build 2.0.5 =
BSC @48C looks clean with lens cap on . . . at exactly 48C - couple degrees lower it still showed gradient
BSC @48C cold start @ 25C = 2 stop gradient from right to left which is unusable

Quickie takeaway = Epic is extremely temp sensitive as it relates to gradient bug. Camera needs at least 20 minutes to stabilize temp with Manual Fan turned down

No idea how this translates to actual shooting since I just updated to 2.0.5
 
On build 2.0.5 of two Epic-X cameras, I'm consistently getting a black calibration failure at 300fps with a formatted SSD card. This only happens when I select "User HS" and click on "Black Shading (current FPS/Exposure)". Any ideas why "Black Shading (default)" works and the other one doesn't?
 
@josh

I did my black shading at 48 degrees and it's been great.
Maybe if the factory default was 48 at 24fps 180 shutter then we could save the USR black shade a 1fps 1/2 second for timelapse.

Ive always understood that black shading needed to be done to fend off hot pixels at wide open shutters and long exposures. I can't see why black shades need to be done at high framerates where the sensor is being exposed normally (in terms of how much light is hitting it).

I've only ever redone black shading sparingly when I've had to do long exposures.

Where did this notion of black shading every time you change a setting come from?
 
David Battistella said:
Ive always understood that black shading needed to be done to fend off hot pixels at wide open shutters and long exposures.
Click to expand...

According with Deanan it is more intricate than that.

Deanan said:
My recommendation is to blackshade:
1) upgrading to new firmware
2) big ambient temperature changes
3) long exposure times (longer than ~1/15th sec)
4) very short exposure times (shorter than around ~1/1000th)
5) beginning of a project
6) as often as you feel like

Remember to black shade at default after long/short exposure black shade when your finished.

More convenient/flexible black shading coming later.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks Christian.

That can be four or five times in a shoot day. That's two and a half hours of black shading time.

There has to be a "nominal" happy medium. I'm certainly not going to spend that much time during a shoot black shading.

How many degrees is "big" ambient temperature change? I'd have to say 15 degrees Celsius or more.

David
 
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